Water leaking passenger side
Willbratz, it gets very difficult to follow your issues when you are posting about the same issue in different threads. Ie: water leak and the need for a blower resistor.
Donbrew is right - you do not have a fob sync problem, you have a problem with broken solder joints in the fobs, as notated by the dealer. And that is easily resoldered as per his pointing to the "How-To"section.
Donbrew is right - you do not have a fob sync problem, you have a problem with broken solder joints in the fobs, as notated by the dealer. And that is easily resoldered as per his pointing to the "How-To"section.
Ok so if its a rolling code that works with my car only, isn't that the same as being "synced" to work with only my car? If so then if I bought new FoBs they would need to be "synced" to my car, right? That's the point I'm trying to make here. You have to do something to "sync" the FoB to the car. And as I stated earlier I couldn't find anything on how to do it. The only thing I found was either take it to the dealership, or have a locksmith do it. So, again why would the mechanic tell my wife they don't "sync" the FoB?
In its simplest terms yes, the vehicle and the fobs are synched up. But its not the fobs that need synching, its the vehicle.
When you replace the fobs, the new fobs will use a different set of codes, the vehicle needs to be reprogrammed to recognize them.
Unfortunately its not something you can do, and it does require either a dealer or a locksmith with a scan tool and the appropriate knowledge.
As to why the tech said what he did, I guess you can chalk it up to ignorance or unfamiliarity with the workings of GM vehicles built on the Delta platform like the HHR.
When you replace the fobs, the new fobs will use a different set of codes, the vehicle needs to be reprogrammed to recognize them.
Unfortunately its not something you can do, and it does require either a dealer or a locksmith with a scan tool and the appropriate knowledge.
As to why the tech said what he did, I guess you can chalk it up to ignorance or unfamiliarity with the workings of GM vehicles built on the Delta platform like the HHR.
Ok so here's what I found out, after paying 105.00 for them to diagnose the car. The mechanic says that there are 2 leaks one from the sunroof and some sort of seal is broken where they need to loosen up the AC bracket in order to get to it, I believe he said an L boot. They want to charge me 442.00 to basically reseal it and clean out the drain from the sunroof.
How hard is this? Because I think 442.00 is a bit high. Can someone chime in here and give me your thoughts on a DIY situation?
How hard is this? Because I think 442.00 is a bit high. Can someone chime in here and give me your thoughts on a DIY situation?
First off, just on principal, I can't stand the so-called diagnostic fees charged by some dealers. It's the difference between a "stealership" and a dealership.
Give this water leak thread a read, the section I'm linking you to shows the sunroof drains, they can usually be cleaned out with the careful application of compressed air.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...?t=770&page=29
Take the time to read the whole thread though, lots of good info.
It sounds like they are saying the other leak is around the evaporator, is that correct?
Give this water leak thread a read, the section I'm linking you to shows the sunroof drains, they can usually be cleaned out with the careful application of compressed air.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...?t=770&page=29
Take the time to read the whole thread though, lots of good info.
It sounds like they are saying the other leak is around the evaporator, is that correct?
o.k. once again thanks guys for helping me out. Now, here's what they say the problem is:
Water test vehicle found pass side sunroof drain tube clogged and HVAC air inlet door water shield out of position allowing water to enter cabin and on to pass frt floor.
Price for repair 470.00
does that help you guys out any in pointing me in the right direction for the second leak (so to speak) issue? According to the mechanic I'll still need to remove the cowl ect., but he also mentioned they would need to loosen up the AC bracket in order to get to this HVAC air inlet area that apparently is where the second leak is.
Thanks Guys
Water test vehicle found pass side sunroof drain tube clogged and HVAC air inlet door water shield out of position allowing water to enter cabin and on to pass frt floor.
Price for repair 470.00
does that help you guys out any in pointing me in the right direction for the second leak (so to speak) issue? According to the mechanic I'll still need to remove the cowl ect., but he also mentioned they would need to loosen up the AC bracket in order to get to this HVAC air inlet area that apparently is where the second leak is.
Thanks Guys
Ok so if its a rolling code that works with my car only, isn't that the same as being "synced" to work with only my car? If so then if I bought new FoBs they would need to be "synced" to my car, right? That's the point I'm trying to make here. You have to do something to "sync" the FoB to the car. And as I stated earlier I couldn't find anything on how to do it. The only thing I found was either take it to the dealership, or have a locksmith do it. So, again why would the mechanic tell my wife they don't "sync" the FoB?

Check your PM there might be some help.
emoticons are back!


