Water pump replacement
Water pump replacement
The water pump in my HHR 2.4 started to leak after 183,000 miles, so I replaced it using the proper tools and proceedure. Big mistake!
If you don't install the sprocket tool EXACTLY right, you will draw the sprocket out of line with the chain and cause the chain tensioner to ratchet tighter. The tensioner will cause the bearing/guides to whine like a turbo, and there is no repair except to start over.
My advice- hire this job to be done by a shop that has done it before and save yourself a LOT of misery. This will cost a lot, but is money well spent. TRUST ME! I have been wrenching all my life and will never do this again.
To do the job right, the front cover has to come off, this involves removing the crank pulley and belt tensioner. The cover is split, so you only have to take the lower section off. This gives you access to the chain and water pump sprocket, and you can easily reset the tensioner once the pump is installed. You have to purchase a front seal kit.
There is little room to work, and having a lift makes the job much more tolerable. While it is apart you may want to install a complete chain kit and new belt, the labor won't be that much more. But if all is good just reuse the old parts, based on miles.
I spoke with the mechanic who worked on my car, he said that he would never replace a pump without taking the cover off as the risk of the tensioner ratcheting is too great. Do it right and there's never a problem afterward, per his experience. Also, only use an AC/DELCO pump.
If you don't install the sprocket tool EXACTLY right, you will draw the sprocket out of line with the chain and cause the chain tensioner to ratchet tighter. The tensioner will cause the bearing/guides to whine like a turbo, and there is no repair except to start over.
My advice- hire this job to be done by a shop that has done it before and save yourself a LOT of misery. This will cost a lot, but is money well spent. TRUST ME! I have been wrenching all my life and will never do this again.
To do the job right, the front cover has to come off, this involves removing the crank pulley and belt tensioner. The cover is split, so you only have to take the lower section off. This gives you access to the chain and water pump sprocket, and you can easily reset the tensioner once the pump is installed. You have to purchase a front seal kit.
There is little room to work, and having a lift makes the job much more tolerable. While it is apart you may want to install a complete chain kit and new belt, the labor won't be that much more. But if all is good just reuse the old parts, based on miles.
I spoke with the mechanic who worked on my car, he said that he would never replace a pump without taking the cover off as the risk of the tensioner ratcheting is too great. Do it right and there's never a problem afterward, per his experience. Also, only use an AC/DELCO pump.
I have experience a LOT of defective parts right out of the box since COVID. Especially with A/C parts. Save your receipt if you buy anything from NAPA, there's a good chance you will need it again. I have decided to buy ONLY AC/DELCO parts despite the added expense. And DON'T buy from Detroit Spring, I had 100% failure rate with their junk.
I agree, it is a good thing that NAPA stands by their warrantee, if not their product. As it happens; the pump I had was from NAPA.
Here is Oldblue's post on the subject: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...et-tool-65613/
Here is Oldblue's post on the subject: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...et-tool-65613/
By proper tools, do you mean the crescent thingaroo that's supposed to immobilize the sprocket? It this a GM prescribed technique? When I first read of it, I thought it was a brilliant hack, but at the same time was skeptical, as it looked risky. Apparently, you can attest that it is.
My water pump tool is full circle, after the water pump change the balance chain tensioner had tightened and was make squealing noise, I had to rest the chains and the noise went away, so that’s why I recommend installing water pump and timing/ balance shaft chain along with guides and tensioners.
Unlike water pumps of the last century that had a weep hole on the bottom to signal a worn bearing/seal, ours has a weep hole on the top in an indentation. So any weeping has to fill the pocket before there will be any sign of a drip. Another "if you notice it it is urgent".
It left a small puddle, and since I use the car all the time I didn't want to risk a breakdown. For the first time in 15 years of ownership I hired someone to work on the car, that's how dependable it has been.
I used the full circle immobilizer. If not used properly, it can draw the sprocket in or out. The mechanic told me that he would never use one again, plan on taking the lower part of the front cover off and do it that way.
The mechanic said the pump was installed correctly, but still had the whine.
I used the full circle immobilizer. If not used properly, it can draw the sprocket in or out. The mechanic told me that he would never use one again, plan on taking the lower part of the front cover off and do it that way.
The mechanic said the pump was installed correctly, but still had the whine.
My water pump tool is full circle, after the water pump change the balance chain tensioner had tightened and was make squealing noise, I had to rest the chains and the noise went away, so that’s why I recommend installing water pump and timing/ balance shaft chain along with guides and tensioners.


