Silverfox

Genuine GM service work is Warranted for 12 months. Parts and labor.

SF

Sileny Jizda

Took it in this morning and gave a detailed explanation of the goings on, or in this case, not going on. We were able to get it to start this morning but the starter sounded strained briefly. We were told that the starter was new and couldn't be the problem. Then were asked about our battery. We said it was new. They told us it wouldn't be the first time a new battery failed. All I could think was the previous statement about the starter new/broken is different how? I've had that happen before myself back in the day. Asked about the remote start possibly causing issues and was told no that they was no real way that could happen or damage the starter. They started chasing things down around 10 this morning and no update yet so who knows what is going on under there. I will keep y'all updated. Right now I'm thinking why ohh why did I get rid of my '80 Mercury Capri RS. That thing was a bloody tank.

Sileny Jizda

This is a week after update on how things went. After chasing everything they could think of down they had to concede it was the starter that was toasted again. Not more than two days later the stinking Traction Control light came on while driving out of town. It randomly came and went over the past 7 days only to come back tonight with a Check Engine Light. After this it'll be a cold day in hell before I let the dealership touch the car again. While I can't prove beyond a shadow of a doubt they are jacking things up or are just that bloody incompetent the history speaks enough for itself. Time to find another mechanic that I can hopefully trust. SMDH

whopper

Please clarify - they replaced the starter again, and the starter issue is now resolved?

What is the current CEL code you are getting?

RJ_RS_SS_350

Nobody is going to try to discourage you from finding a shop you can trust. But... please realize that you're driving a car that is nearly 10 years old, with over 100,000 miles. Things are going to go wrong. You don't know how badly prior owner(s) may have neglected the car for its first 8 years.

The starter went out, they replaced it, with a new, but defective unit(it happens occasionally) . Now something else is causing a problem. Looking at your posts, you've had a hub go bad, an issue with your ignition key(that fixed itself?) and a broken rear spring. Doesn't sound too bad.

Was your other vehicle, (that had a lot of problems) older and/or high mileage also?

donbrew

The ignition key problem turned out to be the "jiggle" the steering wheel fix.

Anybody recall the definition of insane? Doing the same thing over and over expecting a different outcome each time. Why do you continue going to an over priced Chevy shop for bad service?

Sileny Jizda

The starter in the car now is the second one they installed. So far, crossing fingers, it's still working. I need to swing by an Autozone or Advanced to get the code read. It comes and goes over the course of this week. The Traction Control light blinks on and off between car use then eventually the Check Engine comes on with it. It seems to be aggravated by rough road conditions.

I had some struts (Monroe Quick) purchased a month back to swap out the front due to a bad strut bearing I found out about after reading over the forums here. I had that and the end links (Moog poly greasable) done two days ago after the latest codes started popping. I had hoped that replacing them would clear things up after clearing codes the codes came back. It was also noticed that the brake pads on the front were getting thin and the rotors could use replacing. Due to short funds and needing other info for upgrading I can't do those right now. Maybe in the next few weeks.

A number of the issues I didn't come to the forum over I just had them handle. The key issue was resolved after seeing that my wife wasn't turning the wheel far enough after parking. Weird but she had that happen on another car and learned quickly what to try afterwards to get it to work. Just a rundown over the last six months starting after the first oil change I had done at the dealership:

Rear spring. I understand it happens. My location in OH has Kosovo quality roads in parts. I don't fault the dealer.

Oil Change. Normal.

Timing chain tension. CEL came on three to four weeks later Let the dealer have at it and they came back with that and one other thing, knock sensor I believe. I figured let emm go after it because they said due to mileage it was due for a chain and such anyway. It was around $1,200.

Starter #1. Three to four weeks later starter started to sound really sick. We were able to get it started up after hearing what sounded like the (bendix?) was free spinning and not engaging. Towed it in it was that bad, they replaced it and off we went. I also replaced the battery before taking it in.

Starter #2. Three to four weeks later starter started to sound really sick, again. We were able to get it started up after hearing what sounded like the (bendix?) was free spinning and not engaging, again. Was told it was most likely the battery even though we pointed out that was checked and it was good and was replaced prior to the previous visit. They kept it overnight and trouble shot it during the day only finding out later in the day that it was indeed, a bad starter. Replaced it under warranty and off we went.

Unknown. Two days later Traction Control and CEL came on. (see above) Took it in elsewhere to get the scheduled known bad struts/end links replaced. At this visit it was pointed out the brakes needed attention within the month. The guys were also not impressed with the dealer having had to fix things they've done in the past. The dealer does have one mech that does damned great work. When he handled our cars we were golden for a looonggg time. At any rate, the suspension is smooth as glass now and rides great. No grinding wheels no 'thong' in the steering. After being told about the brakes, and having had asked about it at the dealer over the month with no answer, I now know it is brake related and not suspension, which I realize on this model is an ongoing issue.

I am planning, after reading here, to upgrade the rotors to the SS size and doing that mod since it seems to address the known rotor issue. If I understand what I read I'll need rotors, brake caliper brackets, and new pads. I read here that it'll fit with the LT2 suspension and factory 17" rims. I need to know if it'll work with our 16X6.5 5-110 steel rims we use int he summer. If I'm missing something please let me know. I also read in here that I should adjust the rears every 5,000 or every oil change due to the spotty auto adjusters in the rear.

I had hoped at this point to also install the rear sway bar as well but these repairs are really eating into things. I'm sure I'm forgetting something because I've seriously lost count how many times I've been in there in the past six months. I just know the wife is getting tired of it and has noticed a pattern. Happy wife, happy life. Unhappy wife, stone cold misery. She and I both understand mileage on a car adds up and things happen. With a car just over 100k, though, it shouldn't be this often. I've had older cars with upwards of 200k that didn't go into the shop this often nor regular.

Don't get me wrong, I love the car. She loves the car. When it isn't in the shop it does everything we need and its style is great in a world full of cookie cutter cars. I really want to do some of the mods I've read about here and even get a second one for myself. At this rate though I'm seriously reconsidering and looking at a 80 Capri RS with the inline six like I had when I first started driving. That thing had a few quirks but it never left me on the side of the road and was cake to fix. I really do appreciate the help I get here and the advice it just seems to us that something is amiss at the dealership.

Sileny Jizda

Just had the code read at Autozone. It came back as a P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Sensor. Normal stuff from what I read. Still no idea on the Traction Control light though.

donbrew

If you have read anything about P0011 here you would know that is the cause of the Traction light. Also could have something to do with idiots changing timing chains from misreading codes.

type "P0011" into the search box.

whopper

And once again the diagnostic code of P0011 has been misinterpreted - it is not "Intake Camshaft Position SENSOR" - it is actually "Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid". It's a major difference between a sensor and a solenoid.

You need to go read this thread - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/

And Donbrew is right - that code is the cause of the traction control light. And it can be caused by a defective solenoid, and/or contaminated/old oil - advice: change the solenoid along with an oil/filter change at the same time (unless the oil/filter have been changed very recently).