When I fill my 2009 2.4 HHR with 87oct. gas, or any oct., it will not start until I put the foot feed on the floor. Then it starts and runs just fine until the next fillup. It also gets a gas fume smell in the interior when I do this to start it. I have read several of the forum in this great HHR group and I am going to go for the 2 solonoids in the EVAP system first. Anyone got any other ideas, my ears are open.

 

I would think if you had evap solenoid problems, that a code would be thrown. But maybe not........next guess!!!!

You did not mention if you have had any codes or faults displayed.

I would also ask if you have overfilled the tank....you know, rounding up the dollars or quantity?

 

I'm with Snoopy here, take it to your local auto parts store and have them "pull the codes", if any are present post them up here.

The reason Snoopy posed the overfilling/rounding up question is that trying to stuff extra fuel into an HHR after the pump shuts off, risks "drowning" the EVAP canister with raw fuel instead of the fuel vapors it's meant to handle.

Any additional info you can provide would be great, and to the forum!

 

See if you get the same result if you just remove and replace the gas cap. I am thinking something in the EVAP system, but throwing parts at problems only empties your wallet.

 

OK! I add: I never overfill any vehicle, anymore, and I did forget to mention that the check engine light is on. My friend, with a very expensive code checker, read it and I don't remember code numbers but it said "minor and major EVAP errors".

 

Well then......
Get the code numbers, Google them, and find out what they REALLY mean. Then post them up here we'll help.

The description of an OBDII code usually has nothing to do with what it really means.

 

It may be a couple days to get the codes as we are having an icey road situation right now and then the holidays. I will post the codes when I get them. I did put on a new gas cap and checked for any loose fittings or broken lines. I found none of that. It all looked normal while it was on a rack. I even jiggled the connections just to confirm the seatings. I do appreciate all the response. Will get back as soon as possible. I do work in a body shop and do my own mechanic work usually. I get the big stuff and my codes at a real mechanic friend of mine's shop. He reads my codes for free.

 

You can check the EVAP solenoid (under the hood) by disconnecting the 2 tubes and blow into one end. If it blows freely, it is bad (stuck open).

 

donbrew, a side bar, please......

Do the EVAP solenoids ever go bad by being stuck closed. I noticed you have mentioned this diagnosis several times and you have me wondering. And I am ASS UMing the valve stuck closed would not allow air thru, thus providing a false positive.

 

I don't know. I try to say "stuck open" as often as possible.

The "official" way to test is to use a TechII to command the solenoid on/off and listen for the clicks.

I think you would get a different code & symptom if it was stuck closed. Too much vapor pressure in the tank? Or maybe that would point to the vent solenoid. I have never had the problem, so I never waded through the logic.

When it's stuck open it mimics a vac leak. Part of the problem is that the CEL does not set until 2 consecutive failures (you may have pending codes), and as far as I can deduce the EVAP test only runs under special circumstances OR ten cold start cycles.