Would it be called surging?
Time to resurrect this thread. My transmission is doing it again. After the reset, I usually get about 9 months of proper operation.
So, here's my question: What OBD II tool can I buy that will allow me to rest this parameter myself? There are plenty that can read codes, but what about one to reset? (Feel free to offer brand and model number. I won't take offense.)
Now that my ESP has expired, this little trip to the dealership could start adding up over the years. (I say this, as I kept my previous vehicle 22 years.)
Thanks!
So, here's my question: What OBD II tool can I buy that will allow me to rest this parameter myself? There are plenty that can read codes, but what about one to reset? (Feel free to offer brand and model number. I won't take offense.)
Now that my ESP has expired, this little trip to the dealership could start adding up over the years. (I say this, as I kept my previous vehicle 22 years.)
Thanks!
What are the codes?
Most readers can clear them.
Why not fix the problem not The warning light.
If you are wanting to rest the TCM to zeros, you will need at least $1,000 for a computer that can do that.
Have you read your Owners Manual about the cruise control? It is not designed to work at speeds less than 45 MPH. My 2011 LT searches for gears until I get over about 52 MPH. I live in "the rolling hills of Virginia", not the flat land.
Most readers can clear them.
Why not fix the problem not The warning light.
If you are wanting to rest the TCM to zeros, you will need at least $1,000 for a computer that can do that.
Have you read your Owners Manual about the cruise control? It is not designed to work at speeds less than 45 MPH. My 2011 LT searches for gears until I get over about 52 MPH. I live in "the rolling hills of Virginia", not the flat land.
Last edited by donbrew; Jun 1, 2015 at 05:10 PM.
Not to sound like a butt, but why are you setting the cruise at such a low speed? The transmission(auto I assume) most likely is at the in-between point of gear changes.Over the years I have never set the cruise control unless I'm in high gear. You could have other problems but setting the cruise at low speed---wouldn't recommend it.
What are the codes?
Most readers can clear them.
Why not fix the problem not The warning light.
If you are wanting to rest the TCM to zeros, you will need at least $1,000 for a computer that can do that.
Have you read your Owners Manual about the cruise control? It is not designed to work at speeds less than 45 MPH. My 2011 LT searches for gears until I get over about 52 MPH. I live in "the rolling hills of Virginia", not the flat land.
Most readers can clear them.
Why not fix the problem not The warning light.
If you are wanting to rest the TCM to zeros, you will need at least $1,000 for a computer that can do that.
Have you read your Owners Manual about the cruise control? It is not designed to work at speeds less than 45 MPH. My 2011 LT searches for gears until I get over about 52 MPH. I live in "the rolling hills of Virginia", not the flat land.
Re: "... fix the problem, not the warning light." There is no warning light, and no codes triggered. (I explained the problem earlier in this thread.) When I take it to the dealership, they plug into the OBD II and set the TAP to its minimum value. (It is not a zero, but a 4, I believe.) This 'fixes' the problem for about 3/4 of a year. The dealer had re-built the transmission (under warranty) before I told them of this problem (discovered on this forum). Since their further research, they now say other drivers who are "conservative" in their driving habits experience this same problem.
Re: "Have you read your Owners Manual about the cruise control?" Yes, I read my owners manuals (unlike probably 90% of people). I do not use my cruise control when the road traverses hilly terrain, as it negatively affects my mileage. (Perhaps this is a contributing factor?)
You did answer my question, however. If it takes a $1K computer to reset the TAP of the PCM, that would not be cost effective. I will continue my pilgrimages to the shrine of the bow tie, and make my offering to ward off the surging demon.
Edit: Tech II tool is ~$300. I just wouldn't know what to access.
Last edited by JazzDad; Jun 2, 2015 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Info added
That's the problem with reviving 7 page threads. I don't have the time to go back and read everything!
A Tech II for $300 IF it has the CANDI adapter and current software and the other stuff you need is a good price. They are being replaced by a new scanner, so they may get cheap.
When I try to maintain a speed less than about 53 MPH the car searches for gears. I am assuming that's what you mean by "conservative". The way the trans works just does not allow that, it wants to get to cruising speed (above 55 MPH) and stay there for the best MPG. I find that I get much better MPG at 55 MPH than I do at 45 MPH. That's because the torque converter "locks" and you are in true overdrive.
A Tech II for $300 IF it has the CANDI adapter and current software and the other stuff you need is a good price. They are being replaced by a new scanner, so they may get cheap.
When I try to maintain a speed less than about 53 MPH the car searches for gears. I am assuming that's what you mean by "conservative". The way the trans works just does not allow that, it wants to get to cruising speed (above 55 MPH) and stay there for the best MPG. I find that I get much better MPG at 55 MPH than I do at 45 MPH. That's because the torque converter "locks" and you are in true overdrive.
Thanks, Don. That term, conservative, was used by the dealer service manager. He probably bit his tongue wanting to call me grandpa. I accelerate and decelerate slowly. I still have the original brake pads at over 108K miles. (And that was with a service order where they had to grind the pads and shoes back flat after pulling in gravel, which scored them up.)
Even at $300, the tool probably wouldn't pay for itself. Then again, I kept my last car till it had over 325K miles.
After the TAP has been reset, the vehicle has no bucking, surging or searching for a gear (w/ or w/o the cruise set) until it learns my driving style, and then it begins to punish me once again.
Even at $300, the tool probably wouldn't pay for itself. Then again, I kept my last car till it had over 325K miles.
After the TAP has been reset, the vehicle has no bucking, surging or searching for a gear (w/ or w/o the cruise set) until it learns my driving style, and then it begins to punish me once again.
It is a software issue in the adaptive strategy of the PCM/TCM. Until they come up with a decent rewrite to address it, it can be cleared up in most cases by resetting the TAP(transmission adaptive pressure) Cells(parameters) to "zero"/base/centerpoint values(not really zero since they range from 4-16).
This cleared up the bounce from my '08 2.2 for about 20K miles but it is returning again. It can be done with a TechII diagnostic tool and with "some" generic ones. When we had ours done it made the converter lock sooner and stay locked with more app(throttle). It helped our rural/urban mixed commute mileage by almost 2 MPG and made the converter/transmission much more stable/pleasant. My wife and I are moderate to average drivers when it comes to driving style. Some report that if they "thrash" the throttle for a day or two that it builds higher pressure adaptive strategy and gets better for a while....doesn't help you MPG though!
This cleared up the bounce from my '08 2.2 for about 20K miles but it is returning again. It can be done with a TechII diagnostic tool and with "some" generic ones. When we had ours done it made the converter lock sooner and stay locked with more app(throttle). It helped our rural/urban mixed commute mileage by almost 2 MPG and made the converter/transmission much more stable/pleasant. My wife and I are moderate to average drivers when it comes to driving style. Some report that if they "thrash" the throttle for a day or two that it builds higher pressure adaptive strategy and gets better for a while....doesn't help you MPG though!
Ive contacted a couple of companies who flash ECU/PCM and am waiting for replies, when I get one, Ill pass it on here.
think it should be possible, and it would alleviate having to return to have it reset every 15-20k.
Most just learn to live with it. I just avoid cruising at 39-41 MPH.
The only annoying part to me is the hesitation to downshift at 40 when I want to go 55. That's because it is already in "MPG mode" at 40 so in order to downshift it has to first unlock the Torque converter.
The only annoying part to me is the hesitation to downshift at 40 when I want to go 55. That's because it is already in "MPG mode" at 40 so in order to downshift it has to first unlock the Torque converter.


