Which of these subs would one recommend for replacing the stock upgraded Pioneer? I know (thanks to this awesome forum) that the amp puts out a 2X 2ohm stereo wires to the stock sub.

My question is, would a single 4ohm, dual 4, single 2, or dual 2 sub be best or at least not damage the stock amp?

Here are my choices, I would like to do the dual 4ohm Polk db to match the 4ohm Polk DXI-650 coaxials going in the doors. And its the cheapest. However, if spending the extra $100 for the shallow Helix would be worth it...

Polk db dual 4ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB84...VC.html?tp=111

JL single 4ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1368W1V...-4.html?tp=111

Helix shallow dual 2ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975E8W/...8W.html?tp=111

Pioneer shallow single 4ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130SW84...1D.html?tp=111

RF single 2ohm http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P1S2...-8.html?tp=111

 

Stick to a dual 2 ohm..if you go 4ohm you'll cut your power in half..thats the whole purpose of going 2ohm to double the power without doubling the amp ( short version)
if you go single you lose half also.....its like putting batteries into series vs parallel, if you underatnd that...2 12v batts in parallel still only = 12V....in series they equal 24v..better?

 

Welcome to the site, interesting name, I hear that.

Thinkin of upgrading my subs too let us know how it works out.

 

Isnt the stock sub dual 4ohm?

 

Indeed, I am assuming the stock sub is dual 2ohm, haven't found any info to support that...
I have narrowed it to the $80-Polk (dual 4ohm) or the $180-Helix (shallow, dual 2ohm). Never seen let alone heard a Helix anything, so a tad skeptical about the brand. Any thoughts on that are appreciated too.

Polk - Regular size, inexpensive, matches speakers, dual 4ohm
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB84...VC.html?tp=111

Helix - Shallow, pricey, quality unknown, dual 2ohm
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_975E8W/...8W.html?tp=111

 

Some one told me they are 4 ohms was looking at this.http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictu...ure_id=1307950

might be nice to see more than the picture..http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...rt-RWM304.html

 

probably right..4 ohm dual,,in that case a 2ohm dual would benefit but might drive the amp......

anywho..unless your planning to mod it..a shallow is the only choice you have..small thin box..plastic..cover it with dyamat or anything of your choice and polyfill the box..works better.
Now there are some who mounted the sub outside the box , magnet out,, this way you can run what ya want..just have to watch cargo space ( but you'll have to cut out the stock grill ). Can run a 10" this way also, otherwise an 8" is it. I believe the stock box is .6 (??) cuft? So match accordingly...

 

You will have to run it at 2 ohms or more. Running dual 2 ohms would give you 1 ohm and burn the factory amp up.

Dual 4 ohm or a single 2 ohm if you are talking just 1 speaker to replace the factory one. As you know if you run it at 4 ohm it will be about half the power going to it. I couldn't hear my stock one at 2 ohm. Would hate to know what it would do with a 4 ohm in it. I just unhooked it and ran a bigger sub. No sense in it running but being silent.

 

The factory sub is for a fact dual 2 ohm. It measures at rest as 1.8 per voice coil. The factory box has a sticker on the top of it nearest the rear side window that also states 2ohm + 2ohm.

I did try a single 10 sub wired to the stock amp in the factory box (cut it up to fit the 10) and it did not make much difference. The box is very flexible and is just not that good of a box. the amp is very very weak too. These two items imho are the weakest links in the factory sub setup. The factory sub could probably be ok with a tad bit more wattage and a better box. But all in all all three are not all that great.

Also the factory box is less then 4" internal depth for the sub.

 

has anyone fabbed up a custom box for that area? (not in the wheel well but in the factory location) or can the factory box be insulated or made better?