2009 SS Clutch Slave Bleeding
04-06-2020, 05:19 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-05-2020
Location: North GA
Posts: 67
2009 SS Clutch Slave Bleeding
Hi All,
New to the forum. New to HHR (love these things, already own 2), Not new to working on vehicles.
I searched, but couldn't find my exact problem (unless it is buried under another thread title...). So, sorry if this is repetitive.
My issue is I just installed a LUK clutch kit in my 09 I purchased cheap because it needed a new clutch (I'll share the destruction pictures of the original, if anyone wants to see it - it was a doozy). The install went as planned and I was able to clean / repair and paint a lot of items that needed it during the install. But, before I even started, I was skeptical of the clutch bleeding procedure GM outlines. I have the factory service manual and looking at the clutch hydraulic system, I'm not sure how fluid is going to get from point a to point b other than via gravity (as most of you probably know, the bleed screw is not the last item as the fluid travels to its final destination of the slave cylinder). GM states to put about 15 inches of mercury vacuum on the reservoir and that is going to magically suck all the air out, way down in the slave cylinder???
I of course used the bleed screw to get the fluid down (air out) as far as I could through the system. I applied the vacuum like GM says to (about 35 times) and it seems like I still don't have all of the air out of the system. The clutch works 90% of the time, but it always starts engaging just after lift-off from the floorboard. The 10% it doesn't work, I have to pump it a couple of times, then it goes into gear and works the same as it does the other 90% of the time...
So, has anyone found a better way to bleed this system? I feel there isn't much air left in the system, but there is still some, that I just can't get out.
I've always thought SAABs were decent cars - never owned one, but people I talked to have really liked them. But, I'm not a big fan of this transaxle and its clutch hydraulic setup. All slave cylinders I've ever dealt with in the past had a bleed screw as the last item in the path of the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on down.
Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated. I'm a firm believer you're never to old to learn anything. So, if any of y'all that have performed this same job and had the clutch work great 100% of the time, please share your wisdom.
And, also, it does have a new master cylinder. The only thing I didn't replace were the lines, and I don't have any leaks. If it worked the way it does 90% of the time, 100% of the time, I would think it's just a LUK engineering issue. But, since it seems like there is still air in there, somewhere, I feel it's a bleeding procedure issue that the parts the GM (or SAAB) engineers designed don't allow the fix to be as obvious as it should be.
Sincerely,
Robert
New to the forum. New to HHR (love these things, already own 2), Not new to working on vehicles.
I searched, but couldn't find my exact problem (unless it is buried under another thread title...). So, sorry if this is repetitive.
My issue is I just installed a LUK clutch kit in my 09 I purchased cheap because it needed a new clutch (I'll share the destruction pictures of the original, if anyone wants to see it - it was a doozy). The install went as planned and I was able to clean / repair and paint a lot of items that needed it during the install. But, before I even started, I was skeptical of the clutch bleeding procedure GM outlines. I have the factory service manual and looking at the clutch hydraulic system, I'm not sure how fluid is going to get from point a to point b other than via gravity (as most of you probably know, the bleed screw is not the last item as the fluid travels to its final destination of the slave cylinder). GM states to put about 15 inches of mercury vacuum on the reservoir and that is going to magically suck all the air out, way down in the slave cylinder???
I of course used the bleed screw to get the fluid down (air out) as far as I could through the system. I applied the vacuum like GM says to (about 35 times) and it seems like I still don't have all of the air out of the system. The clutch works 90% of the time, but it always starts engaging just after lift-off from the floorboard. The 10% it doesn't work, I have to pump it a couple of times, then it goes into gear and works the same as it does the other 90% of the time...
So, has anyone found a better way to bleed this system? I feel there isn't much air left in the system, but there is still some, that I just can't get out.
I've always thought SAABs were decent cars - never owned one, but people I talked to have really liked them. But, I'm not a big fan of this transaxle and its clutch hydraulic setup. All slave cylinders I've ever dealt with in the past had a bleed screw as the last item in the path of the clutch fluid from the master cylinder on down.
Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated. I'm a firm believer you're never to old to learn anything. So, if any of y'all that have performed this same job and had the clutch work great 100% of the time, please share your wisdom.
And, also, it does have a new master cylinder. The only thing I didn't replace were the lines, and I don't have any leaks. If it worked the way it does 90% of the time, 100% of the time, I would think it's just a LUK engineering issue. But, since it seems like there is still air in there, somewhere, I feel it's a bleeding procedure issue that the parts the GM (or SAAB) engineers designed don't allow the fix to be as obvious as it should be.Sincerely,
Robert
04-06-2020, 06:25 PM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,593
Robert welcome to the site, I saw this method in a Cobalt site
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...way-2-a-38452/
It’s worth a look and read, and possibly try the procedure
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...way-2-a-38452/
It’s worth a look and read, and possibly try the procedure
04-07-2020, 09:41 AM
#7
if you prefill the tob, you only have to bleed the air out of the line and you don’t risk damaging the tob. By the way OP, if you’re changing it out, use an lnf tob, f35 clutch pipe and distribution block
04-07-2020, 12:35 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 04-05-2020
Location: North GA
Posts: 67
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately, the job is already finished and I'm left trying to sort this out with it all back together and running (albeit not 100%).
Pre-filling the slave cylinder would have been great information to know before it all went back together, but I've never seen that mentioned anywhere in the GM service manual, or online in any of the other videos or threads I read. I've attached the GM service manual procedure for grins.
Maybe I can get me a syringe and a very small hose that will snake down into the slave cylinder and I can slowly fill it up from the bottom that way.
Again, thanks for the quick replies and the advice. I still love driving this thing. It's not the fastest car I own, or the 2nd fastest, but it is a hoot to drive, nonetheless!
Sincerely,
Robert
Thanks for the quick reply. Unfortunately, the job is already finished and I'm left trying to sort this out with it all back together and running (albeit not 100%).
Pre-filling the slave cylinder would have been great information to know before it all went back together, but I've never seen that mentioned anywhere in the GM service manual, or online in any of the other videos or threads I read. I've attached the GM service manual procedure for grins.
Maybe I can get me a syringe and a very small hose that will snake down into the slave cylinder and I can slowly fill it up from the bottom that way.
Again, thanks for the quick replies and the advice. I still love driving this thing. It's not the fastest car I own, or the 2nd fastest, but it is a hoot to drive, nonetheless!
Sincerely,
Robert
