Bolt on Upgrades
#11
Powell Race Shop, or TTR.
Just to clear up some you confusion. The GMTU is the only tune that won't VOID your warranty! It also, despite what HP, and Trifecta will tell you disables the ECM's Learn-Down feature, allowing you to get the extra power, or depending on the part- quicker spool up. Without the computer retarding(hate that word) the power. With bolt-ons and no tune, you will see stock power(engine doesn't work as hard) with tune you can get the extra power, without cut-back.
GMTU+IC+PIPES+DP+EXHAUST+CAI= around 315-325Crank HP@24psi + HPorTRI= 325-350 Crank HP(thats pushing it on stock screw though)
Adding bigger screw, and meth will get 375-400 Crank HP, but then the clutch and half shafts become a problem. thats when it gets pricey 400HP shafts run $1,200. 900HP shafts $3,000!
after that its a money pit. You can make a streetable 500HP+ 2.0, but you'll need sleeves, pistons, crank, intake, exhaust, fuel rails, injectors, the list could go on forever. Especially if your going for big numbers.
There are 'balts out there in the 800-900HP range, but they need to be completely re-built at around 100 passes, do the math thats only 25miles! before a re-build.
ATL has a great link and can continue this discussion.
Just to clear up some you confusion. The GMTU is the only tune that won't VOID your warranty! It also, despite what HP, and Trifecta will tell you disables the ECM's Learn-Down feature, allowing you to get the extra power, or depending on the part- quicker spool up. Without the computer retarding(hate that word) the power. With bolt-ons and no tune, you will see stock power(engine doesn't work as hard) with tune you can get the extra power, without cut-back.
GMTU+IC+PIPES+DP+EXHAUST+CAI= around 315-325Crank HP@24psi + HPorTRI= 325-350 Crank HP(thats pushing it on stock screw though)
Adding bigger screw, and meth will get 375-400 Crank HP, but then the clutch and half shafts become a problem. thats when it gets pricey 400HP shafts run $1,200. 900HP shafts $3,000!
after that its a money pit. You can make a streetable 500HP+ 2.0, but you'll need sleeves, pistons, crank, intake, exhaust, fuel rails, injectors, the list could go on forever. Especially if your going for big numbers.
There are 'balts out there in the 800-900HP range, but they need to be completely re-built at around 100 passes, do the math thats only 25miles! before a re-build.
ATL has a great link and can continue this discussion.
#12
i certainly agree that the axles should be replaced according to power levels for reliablity reasons but zzp says they are fine. they run stock axles on 550whp and they have been fine. im about to fab up a new full 3" sri with no maf and get the treadstone lower pipe with maf relocate. then i am seriously contemplating a turbo upgrade. if the zzp efr kit is not available in the next couple of months i may do the werks 5557 kit or the treadstone kit with the 5557. my tuner has already made 465whp on an lnf with the 5557 and that's without e or meth....straight 93
soooooo.....i will probably find out how the axels and transmission hold up here pretty soon
soooooo.....i will probably find out how the axels and transmission hold up here pretty soon
#13
Powell Race Shop, or TTR.
Just to clear up some you confusion. The GMTU is the only tune that won't VOID your warranty! It also, despite what HP, and Trifecta will tell you disables the ECM's Learn-Down feature, allowing you to get the extra power, or depending on the part- quicker spool up. Without the computer retarding(hate that word) the power. With bolt-ons and no tune, you will see stock power(engine doesn't work as hard) with tune you can get the extra power, without cut-back.
GMTU+IC+PIPES+DP+EXHAUST+CAI= around 315-325Crank HP@24psi + HPorTRI= 325-350 Crank HP(thats pushing it on stock screw though)
Adding bigger screw, and meth will get 375-400 Crank HP, but then the clutch and half shafts become a problem. thats when it gets pricey 400HP shafts run $1,200. 900HP shafts $3,000!
after that its a money pit. You can make a streetable 500HP+ 2.0, but you'll need sleeves, pistons, crank, intake, exhaust, fuel rails, injectors, the list could go on forever. Especially if your going for big numbers.
There are 'balts out there in the 800-900HP range, but they need to be completely re-built at around 100 passes, do the math thats only 25miles! before a re-build.ATL has a great link and can continue this discussion.
Just to clear up some you confusion. The GMTU is the only tune that won't VOID your warranty! It also, despite what HP, and Trifecta will tell you disables the ECM's Learn-Down feature, allowing you to get the extra power, or depending on the part- quicker spool up. Without the computer retarding(hate that word) the power. With bolt-ons and no tune, you will see stock power(engine doesn't work as hard) with tune you can get the extra power, without cut-back.
GMTU+IC+PIPES+DP+EXHAUST+CAI= around 315-325Crank HP@24psi + HPorTRI= 325-350 Crank HP(thats pushing it on stock screw though)
Adding bigger screw, and meth will get 375-400 Crank HP, but then the clutch and half shafts become a problem. thats when it gets pricey 400HP shafts run $1,200. 900HP shafts $3,000!
after that its a money pit. You can make a streetable 500HP+ 2.0, but you'll need sleeves, pistons, crank, intake, exhaust, fuel rails, injectors, the list could go on forever. Especially if your going for big numbers.
There are 'balts out there in the 800-900HP range, but they need to be completely re-built at around 100 passes, do the math thats only 25miles! before a re-build.ATL has a great link and can continue this discussion.
#15
http://http://www.powellraceshop.com/
You have to call. They can take a little time to get a hold of them but it is well worth the wait. John Powell developed the transmission mounts and all others are a copy of his work. Very top notch parts. His website sucks you have to email or call. They are a corvette speed shop primarily and they do the delta chassis parts on the side.
I like John and Gloria They are great people. They will answer all your questions and are very willing to help you.
gloria@powellraceshop.com
john@powellraceshop.com
Ask them to send you the email with all the parts they make.
You have to call. They can take a little time to get a hold of them but it is well worth the wait. John Powell developed the transmission mounts and all others are a copy of his work. Very top notch parts. His website sucks you have to email or call. They are a corvette speed shop primarily and they do the delta chassis parts on the side.
I like John and Gloria They are great people. They will answer all your questions and are very willing to help you.
gloria@powellraceshop.com
john@powellraceshop.com
Ask them to send you the email with all the parts they make.
#16
Dave
#17
You don't need sleeves, a new crankshaft, fuel rails, or injectors for 500 flywheel hp. After 550 flywheel hp, some of those parts are nice to have but are not required. The stock crankshaft has been easily proven to 600+ fwhp in the 'balts. Stock fuel system has been proven to be adquate in the 500's fwhp. Sleeves aren't needed unless your going with a huge overbore or are going to be turning crazy rpm numbers. For 500 streetable ponies, you just need a decent sized turbo, bolt ons, and E85.Dave
now you can use an E blend but not full E85
#18
We can go back and forth, about what to add, what not to add. Personally, make it bulletproof.
Here is a good question though, who is using a 500HP FWD for DD? NO ONE!
That kind of power in these cars is just about un-streetable. Street tires would be a huge issue at 500hp.
PS alot of high HP balts, end up changing out pistons and sleeves. Maybe not the first time around but the second for sure. Biger bore, sure. But I'd be more worried about blow-by on the rings. I've seen two cars with blow-by and both put a huge dent in the hoods when the Intake let go. Both times it either lead to or was caused by cracked sleeves. One was a 'balt, the other a Saturn Ion(ended up stripping his Supercharger studs right out of the intake)
Here is a good question though, who is using a 500HP FWD for DD? NO ONE!
That kind of power in these cars is just about un-streetable. Street tires would be a huge issue at 500hp.
PS alot of high HP balts, end up changing out pistons and sleeves. Maybe not the first time around but the second for sure. Biger bore, sure. But I'd be more worried about blow-by on the rings. I've seen two cars with blow-by and both put a huge dent in the hoods when the Intake let go. Both times it either lead to or was caused by cracked sleeves. One was a 'balt, the other a Saturn Ion(ended up stripping his Supercharger studs right out of the intake)
#19
We can go back and forth, about what to add, what not to add. Personally, make it bulletproof.
Here is a good question though, who is using a 500HP FWD for DD? NO ONE!
That kind of power in these cars is just about un-streetable. Street tires would be a huge issue at 500hp.
PS alot of high HP balts, end up changing out pistons and sleeves. Maybe not the first time around but the second for sure. Biger bore, sure. But I'd be more worried about blow-by on the rings. I've seen two cars with blow-by and both put a huge dent in the hoods when the Intake let go. Both times it either lead to or was caused by cracked sleeves. One was a 'balt, the other a Saturn Ion(ended up stripping his Supercharger studs right out of the intake)
Here is a good question though, who is using a 500HP FWD for DD? NO ONE!
That kind of power in these cars is just about un-streetable. Street tires would be a huge issue at 500hp.
PS alot of high HP balts, end up changing out pistons and sleeves. Maybe not the first time around but the second for sure. Biger bore, sure. But I'd be more worried about blow-by on the rings. I've seen two cars with blow-by and both put a huge dent in the hoods when the Intake let go. Both times it either lead to or was caused by cracked sleeves. One was a 'balt, the other a Saturn Ion(ended up stripping his Supercharger studs right out of the intake)
#20
ATL, let me know what tires you go with. I put new shoes on in Feb. and need new ones already! and I'm only pushing around 325, then again.... I leave a ton of rubber every friday at the track.
Mickey T's on 16's are in my future, as they just clear the brakes!
Mickey T's on 16's are in my future, as they just clear the brakes!