SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs Service/Repairs specific to the SS. Turbo-Brembo Brakes-2.0 Engine-Limited Slip Differential-Programmable Display-MU3 Transmission

Brake Hardware

Old Apr 20, 2010 | 04:10 PM
  #21  
hyperv6's Avatar
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From: Akron Ohio
Originally Posted by Gone Blue
Thanks hyperv6. I used the Eastwood caliper paint. If I was thinking ahead, I would have also ordered some black as well. The other day I saw a late model Ponitac GTO that had the caliper brackets painted black and the calipers red. I think it looked better than having both parts painted red. The black on the rotors is a high temp exhaust paint that I had laying around.

I am not very optimistic on how this caliper paint is going to hold up. I put 3 coats on and it still took next to nothing to nick the paint when assembling the calipers. The good news is I have a lot of red paint left over. a little goes a long way. G.B.
I wondered how hard the paint was. My COMP G GTP has powder coated calipers and they even get nicked once in a while. GM apple red matches the powder coat well.

I had though of just painting mine black to cover the ugly dirty alumium. Then if they got nicked they would be easy to touch up and they will not show the dirt.
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 06:59 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hyperv6
I wondered how hard the paint was. My COMP G GTP has powder coated calipers and they even get nicked once in a while. GM apple red matches the powder coat well.

I had though of just painting mine black to cover the ugly dirty alumium. Then if they got nicked they would be easy to touch up and they will not show the dirt.
I here you. That is kind if why I have waited till 50,000 miles to paint them. I just couldnt stand looking at what was fast becoming nasty looking calipers any more. I am hoping that maybe some heat cycling might harden the paint. We will see as I am committed now. Thanks, G.B.
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 06:27 AM
  #23  
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From: Lansing, MI
Originally Posted by bad03xtreme
Just unbolt the caliper, throw the new pads in there and bolt it back up. If the new pads don't have the clips reuse the old ones they will be fine.

Just make sure you scuff up the rotors if you are not replacing them or they will squeal.

Also put a little of this on the back of the pads.

I also am putting new pads and rotors on my non-brembo SS... I am having trouble getting the rear back together. The front caliper piston seated easily using a C-clamp. But I can not get the rear caliper piston to seat at all to allow me enough clearence to get the new pads over the new rotors and all bolted back together. What am I missing?? Thanks for any suggestions...
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 06:35 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by liv2ryde
I also am putting new pads and rotors on my non-brembo SS... I am having trouble getting the rear back together. The front caliper piston seated easily using a C-clamp. But I can not get the rear caliper piston to seat at all to allow me enough clearence to get the new pads over the new rotors and all bolted back together. What am I missing?? Thanks for any suggestions...
liv2ryde, almost all late model vehicles with rear disk brakes that have an integrated parking brake in the caliper require that the piston be rotated when pushed back in. This is the tool kit I have and it worked great on the SS. A C-clamp wont do it. G.B.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Old Apr 21, 2010 | 11:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Gone Blue
I bought some Chevrolet caliper stickers off of a guy on eBay. It appears that he is not longer registered. He had great communication and the stickers were shipped right away and look great. Dont know that the deal is. G.B.
The caliper sticker guy is back on eBay.

http://stores.ebay.com/kjv16111

G.B.
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 07:19 AM
  #26  
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From: Lansing, MI
Originally Posted by Gone Blue
liv2ryde, almost all late model vehicles with rear disk brakes that have an integrated parking brake in the caliper require that the piston be rotated when pushed back in. This is the tool kit I have and it worked great on the SS. A C-clamp wont do it. G.B.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40732
Perfect, Got the tool at autozone and my brake job is complete, Thank you Gone Blue! Dupli - painted my calipers red and love how it looks with the new rotors! Ready for car show season :0)
Old Apr 22, 2010 | 02:30 PM
  #27  
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liv2ryde, cool, glad to hear you got them back together. What pads did you put on? G.B.
Old Jul 26, 2010 | 12:36 PM
  #28  
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Well after approx 5,000 miles with new EBC red pads and turned stock rotors, the rotors are now warped. I had put over 50,000 miles on the OEM brakes with no issues. I am going to replace the rotors and reuse the EBC pads. I hope the EBC pads still stop with the new rotors. I am sure that I wont get the life out of the EBC pads with the rotor swap. I dont know. Kind of bummed. G.B.
Old Oct 26, 2010 | 10:55 AM
  #29  
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Well after about 7,000 with Red EBC pads on fresh turned rotors, the rotors have warped so bad you can hardly hang onto the steering wheel. The rotors also look terrible as my black paint on the rotor hubs is rusting along with a rust ring on the rear rotors were the pads are narrower than the new cut rotor surface. I could just kick myself for not replacing the rotors when I put on the new pads. It was that the original rotors were smooth and had not warped after 50,000 miles so I thought I would give it a shot.

So I bought a set of Centric rotors from Tirerack. I was impressed at the black powder coating on the rotor hubs and even on the vented edge of the rotors. I have been running these now for a few thousand miles with my original EBC pads and the brakes feel and stop really well.

Oh well, I will know next time! G.B.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/sho...atid=newimages

https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/sho...32&c=newimages

https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/sho...34&c=newimages

https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/sho...35&c=newimages

https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/sho...36&c=newimages

Last edited by Gone Blue; Oct 26, 2010 at 11:35 AM.
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