Changing brakes
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 05-11-2012
Posts: 54
From: costa mesa
ok that was real easy (except i didnt have a c-clamp)
now i have tires rotated and nice pretty red calipers to match the bow ties im painting red
i figured out why i had trouble the last time i did brakes (on my tahoe), my bro did part of the job for me and i had to figure out how to bleed brakes...not sure what he did but bleeding fixed em
now i have tires rotated and nice pretty red calipers to match the bow ties im painting red
i figured out why i had trouble the last time i did brakes (on my tahoe), my bro did part of the job for me and i had to figure out how to bleed brakes...not sure what he did but bleeding fixed em
Platinum Member
Joined: 01-09-2007
Posts: 16,081
From: SE USA
I had done maybe 20 front pad jobs before I realized only one bolt was needed. I sure made my life easier.
The reason I remove only the lower bolt is that it is not actually a slide bolt it is a short on that needs no lube, and thus no worry about contamination. You do not need to touch the top on at all, it freely rotates in the mount, just watch the dust boot for cracking and dislocating. That is for the LT & LS variety anyway, I've never looked at SS/Brembo.
The reason I remove only the lower bolt is that it is not actually a slide bolt it is a short on that needs no lube, and thus no worry about contamination. You do not need to touch the top on at all, it freely rotates in the mount, just watch the dust boot for cracking and dislocating. That is for the LT & LS variety anyway, I've never looked at SS/Brembo.
2 guide pin bolts (upper & lower)
2 guide/slide pins (require lube).
Last edited by sleeper; Jan 22, 2013 at 10:33 PM.
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,490
From: Fredericksburg,VA
You can just remove the lower bolt, without pulling the pin out. Thus you do not NEED to re lube, unless there is a problem. If it's not contaminated, you don't HAVE to clean & lube. One of the "other" things that some people do always and some people do never.
The upper bolt is actually the slide pin with threads only at one end, if you remove it you should assume contamination.
Plus, the Service manual says to do it my way and makes no mention of lubing pins, only the hardware. I just checked MitchellOnDemand, it says to do it my way (I guess they were watching me). Oh, and 26 lb-ft to re torque.
The upper bolt is actually the slide pin with threads only at one end, if you remove it you should assume contamination.
Plus, the Service manual says to do it my way and makes no mention of lubing pins, only the hardware. I just checked MitchellOnDemand, it says to do it my way (I guess they were watching me). Oh, and 26 lb-ft to re torque.
Platinum Member
Joined: 01-09-2007
Posts: 16,081
From: SE USA
You can just remove the lower bolt, without pulling the pin out. Thus you do not NEED to re lube, unless there is a problem. If it's not contaminated, you don't HAVE to clean & lube. One of the "other" things that some people do always and some people do never.
The upper bolt is actually the slide pin with threads only at one end, if you remove it you should assume contamination.
Plus, the Service manual says to do it my way and makes no mention of lubing pins, only the hardware. I just checked MitchellOnDemand, it says to do it my way (I guess they were watching me). Oh, and 26 lb-ft to re torque.
The upper bolt is actually the slide pin with threads only at one end, if you remove it you should assume contamination.
Plus, the Service manual says to do it my way and makes no mention of lubing pins, only the hardware. I just checked MitchellOnDemand, it says to do it my way (I guess they were watching me). Oh, and 26 lb-ft to re torque.
I agree about the re-torque spec tho..
As to your way, It's much easier to allow the caliper to hinge back under it's own weight & allow easier access, than have to hang it & work under it..
Just sayin... Both ways get it done tho..
Moderator
Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,490
From: Fredericksburg,VA
I'm sorry, I must disagree, Both Guide pin Bolts are same size & length + do not require removing the guide/slide pins on either, for basic pad replacement.
I agree about the re-torque spec tho..
As to your way, It's much easier to allow the caliper to hinge back under it's own weight & allow easier access, than have to hang it & work under it..
Just sayin... Both ways get it done tho..
I agree about the re-torque spec tho..
As to your way, It's much easier to allow the caliper to hinge back under it's own weight & allow easier access, than have to hang it & work under it..
Just sayin... Both ways get it done tho..
. I was thinking about another car about the pins being different (old f-rts get brain freeze).
Platinum Member
Joined: 01-09-2007
Posts: 16,081
From: SE USA
well Chilton, Haynes & I disagree with you..That's 3 against 2..No issue with brake rubber hose. waddya talking about ??
(I call 'em brain farts, & have em too.)
Peace dude !!!
