SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs Service/Repairs specific to the SS. Turbo-Brembo Brakes-2.0 Engine-Limited Slip Differential-Programmable Display-MU3 Transmission

Compression test

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Old Jan 27, 2016 | 06:57 PM
  #21  
RF2's Avatar
RF2
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It can be done but you will need some tools. This talks about it.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 07:38 PM
  #22  
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Thanks RF2, I'm gonna hope that there's nothing wrong with the sleeve... If there is, I'll pay strict attention to your sig, and stop digging. But seriously, I just talked to my mechanic, he said if the sleeve needs replacing, the block will have to go to LA, as nobody around here will do it.

I think I'll pull the intake manifold, clean the valves, and retest. Maybe the leakage to the crankcase isn't too bad. And if I get called to work at Davis-Besse, I'll get it fixed in Ohio and write it off as a traveling work expense.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 08:04 PM
  #23  
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You can bring it here! We could get that done over a long weekend. I even have an empty 2.0 block in case your sleeve is cracked!

But for my 2 cents,
Unfortunately it does sound like the common broken landing. Dirty valves, probably, but you shouldn't be hearing much of anything in the crankcase. The intake PCV valve flows at 100% from crankcase to intake. It only flows 10% the opposite direction. So if it was valves the sound would be almost none in the crankcase. Seeing as your hearing something from the intake, could be a combination of both. I noticed from my scoping that the valves are dirtier from right to left, probably the vortices at work there.

Removing the intake and shell blasting is definitely good maintenance on a DI engine. It's not difficult, the tricky part is keeping the timing. I'm making a clamp fixture to hold the chain to the exhaust cam so I can remove the intake cam for blasting.

Doing any "serious"in-car engine repairs is no fun, even dropping the oil pan is a chore. It's 1/4 of the block, so it's bolted to the trans. Getting to the bolts requires removing the thermostat housing, etc. If you're going that far, it's very easy to remove the engine and work from a stand. Only a few added steps and you have a much easier time rebuilding.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #24  
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Sounds awesome! I was hoping to be able to meet up with you if I get called up there.

I suspect the rings or ringland to be broken also. But I'll drop the intake tomorrow morning and see how badly coked we are, take some pics. I'll try scraping first, and if that isn't cutting it, I'll go back to Harbor Freight and get some blasting stuff.

Then I'll have to rent a compressor, because mine is so messed up, it wouldn't even do the leak down, had to borrow dad's. I might buy one, I've had my eye on a Makita for years, but never really needed one.

But the timing isn't a problem with just removing the intake, is it? I found this over at css forum, you don't have to remove the camshaft. valve gunk coking removal (Thanks, Wired!)
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 10:01 PM
  #25  
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Just removing the intake will have no effect on timing. Just be careful and use a liberal amount of tape and packing. You don't want any shells inside the engine. They'll be everywhere! I recommend using cardboard shields to protect where you're not blasting.

I'm pulling the camshaft because I'm making the switch to e85. Going with the larger fuel pump lobe for more fuel. You'll probably find a nice pool of oil inside the intake, that's what started my research into the catch can setup.

What part of CA are you in? I was working on Mare Island near Vallejo last winter. Sure beats the winter here! Good luck and keep us posted. Hopefully cleaning your valves will improve your compression numbers!
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 10:32 PM
  #26  
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You'll probably find a nice pool of oil inside the intake, that's what started my research
My research started by finding a nice pool of oil at the mouth of the turbo!
I'm near San Luis Obispo, about 250 miles south of Vallejo.
Old Jan 27, 2016 | 11:41 PM
  #27  
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Well good luck with everything! If you get into a jam, PM me I'll shoot you my number. I have found it's much easier to get the intake off by removing the lower half of the ac lines. You'll lose your charge. But on the bright side, it only takes 1 can to fill it back up!
Old Jan 28, 2016 | 07:47 AM
  #28  
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About time to start a new thread about a new problem?
Old Jan 28, 2016 | 08:52 AM
  #29  
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I agree, found his low compression in #4 with the leak down test. Now document the path to the fix.

FWI in the not to distant future my intention is start a 5th injector thread and provide documentation and pictures of the progress. I am currently collecting the necessary hardware to make this happen. As they say, film at 11.

donbrew, can we make these 3-4 different projects stickies in one section? Dbeluscak has his catch can thread in the 2.0L Performance Tech section, this one is in the SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs section. Which section should these go into to so others can find them??

Thanks

Last edited by DrLoch; Jan 28, 2016 at 08:59 AM. Reason: Added more verbage
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