2010 SS, Performance Package
Time for front brakes again. The dreaded warped rotor wobble has returned.
In the past, based on suggestions here on the forum, I've used:
pads
guide pins
rotor

The Delco ceramic pads are now coming up with ridiculous prices, and not available everywhere (possibly discontinued?).
I'm also wondering if a different rotor choice might mitigate the warping problem. Seems like this last time the rotors only went about two years 30K+ miles before they started to go bad on me. Would a fully coated rotor help with this? I'm in the salt belt so I'm sure the rotor vent passages get pretty clogged up with rusty crap.

Anyway, what's everyone using for brakes, front and rear, these days?

 

The usual cause of the "dreaded wobble" is the LCA bushings, and/or worn out rear brakes if the pads are wearing quickly.

 

I’m thinking the same as Donbrew, new rear bushings . Be careful if you determine it’s ball joint’s only one company offers them OTTP

 

Thank you gentlemen. I will investigate this. Just had some work done on steering, and a complete review of everything suspension related is on my list. In the past, a rotor change always seemed to make the wobble go away.
Still interested to know what everyone is doing for brakes now. I doubt I'll pay $50-70 for the AC Delco pads that used to cost me $20.

 

PowerStop are a good choice.
beaware of incorrect LCA’s , many sites claim that their ball joints fit but the have a 19 mm stub the SS ball joints have a 20.5 mm stub. The GM LCA’s are obsolete now so that leaves a bolt in option from OTTP

https://www.overthetopperformance.co...LNF_p_295.html

These with Moog K201285 problemsolver bushing’s really tighten the steering
I’ve had the Moogs in both my LS and 2LT they are way better

 

I would not be replacing rotors unless I could prove they are warped or badly scored or past the thickness limit. I have replaced a few, thinking that was the wobble only to have it totally disappear for good after replacing the LCAs and struts and hubs.
They only warp when they get overheated; they get overheated from the rear brakes not doing their job.

 

Which is the rear drum brakes on the LS/LT. I can't recall an SS owner complaining about warped rotors.

 

Some SS owners have replaced the rear pads and failed to initially adjust them with the adjuster block tool, making them non-functional.

 

Rock Auto seems to have assembled LCA for FE5, are these incorrect?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...trol+arm,10401

 

I doubt it. The only source is GM that I know of. Any that don't specifically say "HHR SS" are probably for Cobalt FE5. Cobalt has a couple of different FE5 LCAs, one for TC and one for SC.
The QuichSteer part that purports to be FE5 is stamped steel; all HHRs came with cast aluminum. The parts books assume that FE5 on one car is FE5 on all cars and that since cobalt and HHR use the same platform they are exactly interchangeable.
The huge difference is the ball joint, which GM does not admit to, even their parts book is wrong. The stud that connect to the steering knuckle is a tiny bit larger than others; it "fits" but loosely. You have to measure it to be sure; 20.5 mm is the correct size for HHR SS ball joints.
The safest way to go is get the bushing Oldblue suggested and ball joints from OTTP and rebuild your arms. The only confirmed ball joint is the one OTTP has recently made available.