Low Voltage, does anybody have an answer?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-08-2009
Location: Los Angeles, Dallas, New York
Posts: 220
Low Voltage, does anybody have an answer?
Sorry for such a long question.
Something new and recent in my 6 pages of issues with my HHR SS.
In the last few days, after 30 minutes of driving very slow, or medium fast the car bucks, tries to stall, then about ten minutes later throws an engine light and says reduced power.
I can reset the code, drive for another 20 or 30 minutes and the same process.
Now if I drive in D, very smooth, not flooring it, not going slow, but just smooth limo style driving it will run for an hour or so before this happens, but it will happen.
Took it to the LA dealer, Bunnin Chevrolet Yesterday and today the service rep said the car was producing only 6 or 7 volts of electricity to the turbo, then he said uh, the whole car.
About 6 months ago I had a complete new wiring harness put it so I could add the crate engine depot connectors and get rid of the unreliability of the spliced wires and it went fine for 5.7 months, then this issue.
The service rep at Bunnin said it was probably the new wiring harness, though after I had the harness replaced we drove from LA to Vegas, the car ran great except the transmission went out.
Findley Chevrolet in Vegas (which are very good) rebuild the transmission and it ran fine for a few more months, now this.
So does anyone know or had an experience where the car only produces 6 or 7 volts.
Note:
This may make a difference, maybe not, but when I took the car in to Bunnin, it was about 4 minutes away from throwing a code because it started bucking and surging, but it hadn't thrown one yet.
The service rep said he can't take the car unless it throws a code, so I drove around the block, floored it and of course it threw a code.
Could the reduced power process be the reason the turbo is only receiving 6 or 7 volts?
Thanks in advance.
Something new and recent in my 6 pages of issues with my HHR SS.
In the last few days, after 30 minutes of driving very slow, or medium fast the car bucks, tries to stall, then about ten minutes later throws an engine light and says reduced power.
I can reset the code, drive for another 20 or 30 minutes and the same process.
Now if I drive in D, very smooth, not flooring it, not going slow, but just smooth limo style driving it will run for an hour or so before this happens, but it will happen.
Took it to the LA dealer, Bunnin Chevrolet Yesterday and today the service rep said the car was producing only 6 or 7 volts of electricity to the turbo, then he said uh, the whole car.
About 6 months ago I had a complete new wiring harness put it so I could add the crate engine depot connectors and get rid of the unreliability of the spliced wires and it went fine for 5.7 months, then this issue.
The service rep at Bunnin said it was probably the new wiring harness, though after I had the harness replaced we drove from LA to Vegas, the car ran great except the transmission went out.
Findley Chevrolet in Vegas (which are very good) rebuild the transmission and it ran fine for a few more months, now this.
So does anyone know or had an experience where the car only produces 6 or 7 volts.
Note:
This may make a difference, maybe not, but when I took the car in to Bunnin, it was about 4 minutes away from throwing a code because it started bucking and surging, but it hadn't thrown one yet.
The service rep said he can't take the car unless it throws a code, so I drove around the block, floored it and of course it threw a code.
Could the reduced power process be the reason the turbo is only receiving 6 or 7 volts?
Thanks in advance.
#2
I'm lost on your description. What part of the turbo system are you referring to? The turbo itself is not an electrical device.
In other words, exactly where is it only getting 6 or 7 volts?
Also, your car would not run if the battery/alternator voltage was that low. Sounds like maybe it's time for a second opinion.
In other words, exactly where is it only getting 6 or 7 volts?
Also, your car would not run if the battery/alternator voltage was that low. Sounds like maybe it's time for a second opinion.
#3
I'm lost on your description. What part of the turbo system are you referring to? The turbo itself is not an electrical device.
In other words, exactly where is it only getting 6 or 7 volts?
Also, your car would not run if the battery/alternator voltage was that low. Sounds like maybe it's time for a second opinion.
In other words, exactly where is it only getting 6 or 7 volts?
Also, your car would not run if the battery/alternator voltage was that low. Sounds like maybe it's time for a second opinion.
#4
I have noticed over time, all the relays and fuses sometimes unseat themselves. Open fuse box, and check for loose fuses. Every time I open the good, I find one or two that have moved a bit. They could have also cut into a wire when changing out the harness. Under excessive movement wire separates causing a drop in voltage, or transfers that voltage to another wire.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 11-08-2009
Location: Los Angeles, Dallas, New York
Posts: 220
I'm lost on your description. What part of the turbo system are you referring to? The turbo itself is not an electrical device.
In other words, exactly where is it only getting 6 or 7 volts?
Also, your car would not run if the battery/alternator voltage was that low. Sounds like maybe it's time for a second opinion.
In other words, exactly where is it only getting 6 or 7 volts?
Also, your car would not run if the battery/alternator voltage was that low. Sounds like maybe it's time for a second opinion.
The second opinion is a good idea but in all of the west side of L.A. there are few chevrolet dealers, fewer still that work on this car or even know about an HHR SS.
The original dealer that installed the upgrade was in Santa Monica and they changed from Chevrolet to Infiniti so they don't care.
The last repair was done when I was in Vegas at Findley Chev. which has a tremendous service dept., though it costs me $400 each way to have the car shipped there.
Not exactly local.
Thanks
#6
Sounds like the battery. I had this happen to my 2010 van when the battery was on way out it did the same thing. Low voltage to PCM is bad and it well freak out cause of lack of voltage. Try replacing the battery.
#7
Well I can't tell you much until you can get some more accurate info. Sorry,not trying to sound harsh, but what you described sounds like either a mis-interpretation of what the dealer said OR they gave you a line of BS.
Either way, I would find a way to get another diagnosis.
FWIW. Like I said above,that low of voltage, I don't think the car would even run. Newer model cars are very finicky when the votage drops.
Outside chance: Check all the fuses/relays as foolmoon suggested. Also,all the ground connections(not sure how many and exact locations) Any plug ends on the main harness'. And also the battery connections plus that 50 amp fuse and wiring in the rear of the car.
Keep us posted. I'm always willing to learn something.
Either way, I would find a way to get another diagnosis.
FWIW. Like I said above,that low of voltage, I don't think the car would even run. Newer model cars are very finicky when the votage drops.
Outside chance: Check all the fuses/relays as foolmoon suggested. Also,all the ground connections(not sure how many and exact locations) Any plug ends on the main harness'. And also the battery connections plus that 50 amp fuse and wiring in the rear of the car.
Keep us posted. I'm always willing to learn something.
#10
Take it to autozone. They will test n tell u for free. Sounds like a batt. But could b alt.
alt should b charging at 14 volts n batt should have over 12 when cars off.:)
If they r good its a wiring issue
alt should b charging at 14 volts n batt should have over 12 when cars off.:)
If they r good its a wiring issue