Misfire on 3. Head tear down video hhr ecotech turbo
#22
I had a similar issue with mine, cylinder 4 misfire, got worse and worse in time, but only while driving hard WOT
Cleaned intake and injectors with multiple products, seafoam et etc, nothing
Remove the intake, cleaned the valves AND walnut blasted, replace upper and lower IC pipe (there was a leak), put new seals on the injectors (sometimes they go bad and the injector will move back letting air in), swapped injector 4 with injector 3. Put everything back together and the problem moved from misfire on cylinder 4 to cylinder 3.
So I bough 4 new OEM injectors and replaced them all. Problem solved
Cleaned intake and injectors with multiple products, seafoam et etc, nothing
Remove the intake, cleaned the valves AND walnut blasted, replace upper and lower IC pipe (there was a leak), put new seals on the injectors (sometimes they go bad and the injector will move back letting air in), swapped injector 4 with injector 3. Put everything back together and the problem moved from misfire on cylinder 4 to cylinder 3.
So I bough 4 new OEM injectors and replaced them all. Problem solved
#23
Glad to hear it was just a good clean. My current update is the injectors and the spark plugs were greasy as well as the intakes and the entire combustion chamber and top of the Piston is coated with oil or carbon deposits. Was able to get a camera in the chamber.
My question is can I blast the chamber out as it is completely black and keeping the intake side valves open I can vacuum the debris out. Any suggestions or recommendations on doing this just waiting on some parts before I begin doing the intake side but once I saw the commotion chamber was very bad was wondering if that is doable thanks for any input
My question is can I blast the chamber out as it is completely black and keeping the intake side valves open I can vacuum the debris out. Any suggestions or recommendations on doing this just waiting on some parts before I begin doing the intake side but once I saw the commotion chamber was very bad was wondering if that is doable thanks for any input
#25
I cannot recommend intentionally putting blast media in the combustion chamber. You won't be able to get enough back out, and when a lot of grains burn, it could create hot spots. The reason for using shells is in case a few grains do happen to get past the valves, they can burn up easily. But blasting with the valves open is not a good idea.
At 185,000 Km, without catch cans, carbon build up is to be expected. If you clean the valves and ports, and set up catch cans to keep the vapors out of the intake stream, then you can start cleaning up the carbon with seafoam or similar product if necessary. But the combustion chambers may start slowly cleaning themselves.
At 185,000 Km, without catch cans, carbon build up is to be expected. If you clean the valves and ports, and set up catch cans to keep the vapors out of the intake stream, then you can start cleaning up the carbon with seafoam or similar product if necessary. But the combustion chambers may start slowly cleaning themselves.
#26
More than one cylinder was greasy so hopefully we can rule out a bad ring I ordered a leak down tester so just waiting for that to come to confirm whether it's valve or piston. Perhaps the lack of valve sealing it drew more oil into the system covering the cylinder top. Would a turbo seal cause oil to enter the airway system with oil. When driving the car it does feel like a cylinder is missing so hopefully it's just carbon really hoping
#27
When you do your leak down test, keep in mind that the loudest sound is not necessarily the biggest leak. Think of forcefully exhaling with your mouth wide open, or with your lips close together. Maybe not the best analogy, but the tone it makes, not just loudness. My loudest sound was from the crankcase, and I was very concerned. But the quieter, slightly higher note, sound(intake valves) was the real culprit.
#28
I currently have completed a walnut blast and I am getting zero misfires but the car still runs very poorly and I'm not sure why I am not getting any codes related to the engine running poorly other than a limp home mode engine under power but no codes so I'm guessing it is something structural and not a sensor or injector or coil or a spark plug as I have changed them all around. The car will idle but will not drive when I put the gas pedal down it will not allow me to accelerate. Any other advice or things to check would help I'm guessing the three things I mentioned would throw a code or a misfire issue which I am not getting. My final check would be a compression test but that should reveal a misfire as well I would think any advice is appreciated thank you. I do have a catalytic converter I can install which I have heard causes problems but would show a misfire which it which it is not. Not sure if I should replace all the injectors as they are past due. The plugs are new.
#29
Yeah, it gets a little tougher to diagnose without codes. I think I would check fuel pressure, maybe check the timing chain, see if it's loose. If it is, you'll want to check the timing, may be off a tooth. Did you make sure to not turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise?
I'm sure there will be some other suggestions.
I'm sure there will be some other suggestions.