Please help boost issue
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,512
From: California
Ok, at least the P0234 is not historic, it's actually happening. When I was overboosting, same symptoms as you are having, I got the 234, but I never got an underboost code. So the underboost code could be historic (or not). You have the Forge bypass valve? Which spring is in it?
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-14-2014
Posts: 17
From: HOUSTON
Well I hooked it up to a scanner at work and see the codes it's the 2261 and 234 I was able to inspect the wastegate the the rods not bent or nuts loose , but I noticed there is a solenoid in the bottom side of the turbo with 3 vacuum lines held on by a torx screw - was talking to a engine tech at my job and he suggested replacing it - possibly called a wastegate vacuum solenoid ??? Not sure if that correct , and in the bypass valve I have the green spring in - any ideas or similar issue
Senior Member
Joined: 05-29-2015
Posts: 542
From: Cleveland, OH
It's called the turbo bypass solenoid. Which makes sense because it controls the wastegate. There should be a lb# rating included with your instructions. Not sure what the green is rated at.
2 points for RJ! He called it on page 1. Atta boy, he's been there done that. Directly under this post though you said you checked all the connections. Whoops! It's hidden pretty good in there. Good luck, keep us posted
You should check the vacuum/pressure lines on the turbo and on the boost control solenoid on the turbo(with 3 hoses and a wire connector). Shown here in the pic, keep in mind that the hose on the right seems to be integral to the solenoid, attached to it under the wire connector.
When I changed out my solenoid, the clamps snapped off effortlessly, weakened by heat cycles. Your clamps may be broken, your hoses may be cooked. There have also been reports of the wire connector itself being cooked, crumbling when trying to remove it.
If that all checks out, you could check the lines associated with the bypass solenoid, that's the one on the intake manifold that looks similar to the one pictured above.
There was another report here, his charge piping was ripped, somewhere it was difficult for him to see. I don't recall if he had the same symptom, but it would be worth checking. Let us know what you find.
When I changed out my solenoid, the clamps snapped off effortlessly, weakened by heat cycles. Your clamps may be broken, your hoses may be cooked. There have also been reports of the wire connector itself being cooked, crumbling when trying to remove it.
If that all checks out, you could check the lines associated with the bypass solenoid, that's the one on the intake manifold that looks similar to the one pictured above.
There was another report here, his charge piping was ripped, somewhere it was difficult for him to see. I don't recall if he had the same symptom, but it would be worth checking. Let us know what you find.
Moderator
Joined: 05-01-2014
Posts: 8,512
From: California
Ok you said you replaced the boost solenoid, you must have replaced the bypass solenoid on the intake manifold. The boost control solenoid is the one on the turbo, that is what often causes the over boost. I think oldblue linked to a replacement.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,083
From: Welland,Ont Canada
You mean this from page 1 post #3
BorgWarner EFR Boost Control Solenoid Replacement Kit - Full-Race.com
Gee this coulda been fixed three weeks ago? I posted back on April 26, the same day this thread started!
BorgWarner EFR Boost Control Solenoid Replacement Kit - Full-Race.com
Gee this coulda been fixed three weeks ago? I posted back on April 26, the same day this thread started!
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-14-2014
Posts: 17
From: HOUSTON
Thanks old blue and everyone else the solenoid fix t had to modify the solenoid where it bolts at but other that that I have full boost again - now time to save for the gms1 kit/ tune or does Anyone have suggestions for tune