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weird problem with 08 HHR SS Auto

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Old 10-04-2010, 12:12 PM
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weird problem with 08 HHR SS Auto

I'm having a strange problem with my car that just came out of nowhere. I have a 08 HHR SS auto with the GMPP stage kit and a drop in K&N filter. When I drive the car without using much boost the car drives fine, but when I give it about half throttle the car has no power and has a air sucking sound like a vacuum hose came loose. Also it usually pushes about 23 pounds of boost but now it won't go over 15 pounds. I looked at all the connections and didn't see anything loose. I'm dropping the car off tomorrow at the dealership to be looked at but was curious if anyone has had this problem before and what it was so I sound educated at the dealership. Any help would be great. Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2010, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kholtzclaw
I'm having a strange problem with my car that just came out of nowhere. I have a 08 HHR SS auto with the GMPP stage kit and a drop in K&N filter. When I drive the car without using much boost the car drives fine, but when I give it about half throttle the car has no power and has a air sucking sound like a vacuum hose came loose. Also it usually pushes about 23 pounds of boost but now it won't go over 15 pounds. I looked at all the connections and didn't see anything loose. I'm dropping the car off tomorrow at the dealership to be looked at but was curious if anyone has had this problem before and what it was so I sound educated at the dealership. Any help would be great. Thanks.
I had this happen. It was caused by a broken part during the stage kit installation. It caused a large air leak when you gave it gas. To make sure your dealer takes you seriously, you might want to get it to set a CEL. Repeatedly pushing it to where you can hear leak should get it to shut down the turbo and set a code (the CEL may or may not show but the code will be there). Don't worry, you can get the turbo to work again by shutting the car off and restarting it. without the code, the mechanics may tell you everything is fine even though it isn't.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:27 PM
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So your saying just drive it and make it do the problem until it pulls a CEL? How will I know when it has pulled a CEL? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm new to this type car.
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Old 10-04-2010, 05:59 PM
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When you say "all connections weren't loose", did you actually check them? I mean tug at them, make sure they were fitting tightly, etc. It may be that the filter's come loose somehow, or that one of the IC pipes may have cracked for some crazy reason. I'd also check the intercooler pipe's connections at the intercooler at both ends, but that's just me. I hope it's something that simple.

Later
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:30 PM
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yeah, I tightened all the connections I could get to and checked the air filter too. Everything is tight and I didn't see any cracks on the IC piping.
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Old 10-05-2010, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by kholtzclaw
So your saying just drive it and make it do the problem until it pulls a CEL? How will I know when it has pulled a CEL? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm new to this type car.
the CEL being referred to is the Check Engine Light on the dash. It lights up when the engine "throws a code" and stores the code so the dealer, or anyone with a code-reader that plugs into the car under the dash, can retreive the diagnostic code created.
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:01 AM
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Have them check the clearance on the lower T map to the AC compressor.

It has happened where the T map has room till you get on it hard. The engine tourqes back under a load of hard acceleration and pulls the tube up and trhe T map into contact with the compressor.

This will pop the pop off valve [air noise] and will kill the boost at the pint it is at and usually a lower PSI than normal. THe engine feels almost like it cuts out for a second.

The only way to fix it is to push the lower tube on the intercooler more or to remove the front bumper and shim the Intercooler forwad with fender washers wher it bolts to the front bumper.

It needs only about a 1/4 inch more and it will clear.

You do not want to put a pad on the AC compressor as in time it will break the T map or it's connection.

This is a warranty deal and GM should cover it.

Mind did this and a couple others here have had this issue. GMPD confirmed to me it can happen and told me to use the fender washers. I passed it to the dealer and they fixed it.

I had it to the dealer several times and they could not find it as it has clearance on the rack and looks fine. It is only untill you are under hard acceleration the the engine lifts up on the mounts and pulls up on the intake tube that it makes contact. It took some time laying under the car for me to figure it out.

Note under normal driving it will run fine and mine would hit higher boost if I was easy on the gas. But if I floored it the waste gate would pop and I would hardly see 12 PSI cs the normal 23 PSI.

I suspect the mounts on the bumpers have variance on these cars and with some once they go to the Turbo Upgrade kit the new Map is just too close.

Note this condition will not throw a CEL.

I also think some who have had what they think are connection issues in the harness are really having this issue too. THis one is hard for a dealer to see as the space is only gone under engine load and you can not recreate it on the rack. Also it shows no damamge.

Have see if they can put the tube on more to the IC to get more clearance. If not they will have to pull the bumper cover to move the IC forward. THe Fender shims are the way I would go as they fixed it the first try for me.
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by whopper
the CEL being referred to is the Check Engine Light on the dash. It lights up when the engine "throws a code" and stores the code so the dealer, or anyone with a code-reader that plugs into the car under the dash, can retreive the diagnostic code created.
I fill like an idiot not know the CEL was referring to Check Engine Light.Thanks for the info on this.
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hyperv6
Have them check the clearance on the lower T map to the AC compressor.

It has happened where the T map has room till you get on it hard. The engine tourqes back under a load of hard acceleration and pulls the tube up and trhe T map into contact with the compressor.

This will pop the pop off valve [air noise] and will kill the boost at the pint it is at and usually a lower PSI than normal. THe engine feels almost like it cuts out for a second.

The only way to fix it is to push the lower tube on the intercooler more or to remove the front bumper and shim the Intercooler forwad with fender washers wher it bolts to the front bumper.

It needs only about a 1/4 inch more and it will clear.

You do not want to put a pad on the AC compressor as in time it will break the T map or it's connection.

This is a warranty deal and GM should cover it.

Mind did this and a couple others here have had this issue. GMPD confirmed to me it can happen and told me to use the fender washers. I passed it to the dealer and they fixed it.

I had it to the dealer several times and they could not find it as it has clearance on the rack and looks fine. It is only untill you are under hard acceleration the the engine lifts up on the mounts and pulls up on the intake tube that it makes contact. It took some time laying under the car for me to figure it out.

Note under normal driving it will run fine and mine would hit higher boost if I was easy on the gas. But if I floored it the waste gate would pop and I would hardly see 12 PSI cs the normal 23 PSI.

I suspect the mounts on the bumpers have variance on these cars and with some once they go to the Turbo Upgrade kit the new Map is just too close.

Note this condition will not throw a CEL.

I also think some who have had what they think are connection issues in the harness are really having this issue too. THis one is hard for a dealer to see as the space is only gone under engine load and you can not recreate it on the rack. Also it shows no damamge.

Have see if they can put the tube on more to the IC to get more clearance. If not they will have to pull the bumper cover to move the IC forward. THe Fender shims are the way I would go as they fixed it the first try for me.

I will pass this info to the dealership. Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-05-2010, 08:23 AM
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On my way to drop the car off at the dealership the car wasn't making the air noise as bad, but the car now won't boost at all. It won't go past zero. Hopefully they'll get it right as I've had good luck in the past with this dealership. I'll let you guy's know what the out come is.
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