Now it sounds like a broken tube. Some early build 08's had bad lower tubes and the could break at the lower T map.

 

that may be it, cause my car was built in March of 08.

 

THey had bad plastic welds around where the map bolts in.

 

I just got a call from the dealership and they told me that they can't find anything wrong with the car. There going to keep it another day and keep test driving it to see if it will act up. They found a code but said it wasn't related to the turbo. There now checking the plastic welds around where the map bolts in. Does anyone else have any other ideas I can tell them at the dealership. There not to familiar with the SS models and working with the turbos.

 

If they hand you back the car and it's still acting bad, you may be able to force it to shut down the turbo by driving it "hard" for a little while. If you can get it so that it will not boost anymore, drive it straight to the dealer and DO NOT shut it off. Firmly demand that a tech come out and drive the car before turning it off. Then they will be able to "see" the issue and hopefully properly troubleshoot it. As soon as you turn the car off and back on, the boost will return. That's probably why they found no issue. This is how I really got the dealer to start troubleshooting the issues with my car. Otherwise everything seemed to get lost in translation between the service "advisor" and the tech.

 

I will do that if they find nothing. I just got a call from the dealership and they told me the code it threw was 'over boost' so the turbo went into limp mode. When I dropped it off it had no boost but I made a mistake and cut the car off. I'll let you know what happens next. Thanks for your help on this.

 

Actually the code they got may send them in the right direction. That is related to the turbo system function so hopefully they'll find something.

 

I think this topic has been beat to death and we all know it's the Stage Kit and it's wonderful wiring idea. Solder solder solder solder solder solder solder the wires....

 

that's not the problem if you actually hear the air leaking. I had similar problsems to the OP,and it WAS NOT the soldering/not soldering issue.

 

I would have them put something between the T map connector on the lower tube and the AC compressor.

I think the overboost is from it making contact with the AC compressor and shorting the sensor.

I used a piece of roll bar padding and then went out to drive it and no more issue. That was when they then moved the IC forward.

The issue is when you hit the gas the engine torques to the back of the car. If you are looking at it on the driver side it will twist to your right or to the windshield.

This in turn lifts the lower intake tube up and back bringing the T map plug into contact with the AC compressor. This shorts the conection out and gives the T map a false reading. It overboosts and the wastegate pops with a hiss.

The engine only torques back under hard acceleration. If you drive normal it never happens.

In mine the boost would go up and then it just would die and boost would Drop. Then it would come back untill I hit it hard on the gas again.

The T map look like it has room on the rack but that gap goes away under acceleration very fast. They can not check this on a rack. The conditions this happens is only on the road.

The pad in there is a good easy way to check this. It is not a fix. It will wear down the wires or damage the plug in time.

I was the first to have this issue and I have seen several others have it too. Once they all moved the IC forward no more issues.

I would bet this is what is going on from what you discribed.