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TPMS mal function

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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 04:42 PM
  #11  
RJ_RS_SS_350's Avatar
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Maybe they installed the wrong sensors. We don't even know what the DIC reading is for each tire.
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 05:02 PM
  #12  
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Hi Don,
What was done multiple times by both Discount Tire and the Mechanic... was what they called "reset" the sensors, and they said "re-learned" them. They took the FOB, pressed two buttons, horn honked twice, then they went to each tire (starting from front-driver) and went around clock-wise to all other tires, each tire the horn honked once. After all tires honked, then the system said it was done by honking twice. This is the procedure that was performed multiple times by both places.
The tire place also did it via the "lower the tire pressure" method... since the former method didn't work... and that method (as you state is in the owners manual) did not work either. I viewed the manual from the link in your signature... read every sentence that had TPMS in it, so no need to paste anything for me :)
Ahh, didn't know the 20-mile thing was only for PT cruisers... that is good to know, I'll have to communicate that to the tire installer next time I see him so that he doesn't re-communicate that misinformation to others.
And no, no pressure readings show on the dash (each tire pressure reading on dash only shows dashes like "--").

(A,B) I bought the car about a year ago... didn't ever check the tire-pressure. But 6 months ago swapped out the battery (did not know about "special HHR requirement?" to put 9-volt battery into cig lighter). I've swapped about 20+ batteries in my life, never had any "special" requirements. That is crazy for Chevy to use volatile memory in the computer (instead of non-volatile memory that doesn't care whether it has power or not). I expect it on car-radio's (having to reset the radio stations) but not on car CPU's. That Chevy engineer needs to be let go. Anyway, did the pressure readings used to work? I don't recall, since I never cycled through the memory until after I changed the battery I believe. But ever since then (or before then?) its only ever read "--" to the best of my knowledge.
(C) lol. I gave that TSB (you had linked to from another thread) to the Chevy service advisor over the phone... that is when he quoted me $150 to flash.
(D) I did not ask the shop about make/model of their scanners, so didn't have that info. I did read the owners manual (printed out every page that had the word TPMS on it). All of those procedures were done by the TireShop/Mechanic as described to me and from me watching them. However, I have not done it myself. I will go out and manually do every step (can only do the let the air out of the tires method since I don't have a tool). I will try both with the OEM key fob as well as the after-market key fob. Even though it is for the "umpteenth" time, it will be the "first" time for me doing it. So, just to see firsthand for myself, I'll go do it. Will let you know! Thanks... fingers crossed.

Old Jun 10, 2020 | 06:29 PM
  #13  
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Donbrew, I seem to remember that you once gave a time limit, how long the battery can be disconnected, with no issue.

Eddy, it does kinda sound like you need the firmware update. It may have been the PO that left it disconnected for too long.
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 08:21 PM
  #14  
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For the 2008 model year you don’t require the tire tool, just increase or decrease tire pressure, as stated in section 5 page 63 of the 2008 owners manual, if you have a compressor, increase the pressure, as directed.
http://www.vadengmpp.com/owners-manu...vrolet-HHR.pdf
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 08:41 PM
  #15  
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Is there a description or part number on your receipt for the sensors?
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 08:55 PM
  #16  
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No, I did not get a part # for the sensors. They were able to use their fancy TPMS reset tool to get it to relearn (exactly as instructed in the owners manual).
They mentioned they even tried the alternate "tire pressure change" method. In any case, since I don't have the tool, I tried using the "tire pressure change" method, and couldn't even get the first (driver left) tire to honk the horn. After pressing both fob buttons, horn honks twice... then you have 2 minutes to go adjust pressure on all tires. Instructions say "let pressure out for 8 seconds" and it could take up to 30 seconds for horn to honk. I let pressure out for 8 seconds, no luck. Refilled pressure to 45 psi, then let out pressure for 12 seconds. Then 16 seconds. Then 30 seconds until tire was almost flat. Still no luck! I even tried the reverse. Pumping up from low pressure to normal pressure (while it was in learn mode) and still no luck. So, that "tire pressure method" does NOT seem to work at all. But with the fancy TPMS reset tool they used, it chirped the horn within about 2-3 seconds each tire. So, grasping at straws here... I hopped onto Amazon and ordered TPMS reset tool (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XVR85N7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XVR85N7/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
) for $10. It is highly rated and one of the reviewers said it worked for his 2008 Chevy HHR. It is 1-day shipping, should be here tomorrow. But I'm 99.9% sure that if the fancy TPMS tools used by Discount Tire and the Mechanic didn't work, it is infinitely doubtful that this $10 tool will be any different. Good chance it will make the horn chirp for each tire reset (unlike the tire pressure method), but I'm almost positive it won't be effective in getting the dump TPMS light to go off (and make DIC read the tire pressures again). But, have to rule it out, so will try again once it comes in tomorrow.
Also, so are you saying that "anytime" the battery is disconnected for X amount of time, that I'll need to pay the dealer to update the firmware each and every time? I seriously hope that would not be the case.
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 10:08 PM
  #17  
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I don't know if there is a time limit or not.
What I understand happening is that 2007 had TPMS as an option with the RCDLR mounted behind the left rear quarter molding. The 2008 TPMS was mandated by the government and got new RCDLR program and mounted in the headliner behind the mirror. In the rush to get it ready they forgot to program the memory retention on loss of power.

The TSB on the subject is 08-03-16-001B There is a special "labor operation" code for programming R4481 and 0.3 hours diagnostic time allowed. The $150 diagnostic quote is BS. I am not sure if the special code indicates some sort of warranty, however you are out of any standard warranty.

My experience is if you walk in with a TSB they will get very obnoxious. My "advisor" said "looking TSBs up is not my job". Oddly the first step in the diagnostics in the Shop manual is "search for any TSB on the subject". When I got the Service Manager's attention he skimmed my copy of the TSB then tossed it in the trash as he told the advisor "it says something about programming the computer". They totally resent TSBs.
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 10:18 PM
  #18  
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So is it, do it once and never have to worry about it again? Or should Eddy get a battery substitute?
Old Jun 11, 2020 | 07:09 AM
  #19  
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Then it is plausible they installed the incorrect frequency monitor, it should be 315 MHz. If they thought it’s a PT, they are also 315 MHz , so they should work.
Old Jun 13, 2020 | 10:32 AM
  #20  
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Interesting history on the subject, thanks for letting me know :) Yeah, they said just walking in is a minimum $150 charge for them to do anything (lift a pencil), which is why people call them a "stealer" (instead of a dealer).
If they gave me crap for handing them a TSB, or worse threw it in the garbage, I would certainly be fuming and let them have a piece of my mind. They better say, "awesome, great, thanks, that helps, let me look at what you have". But I digress.
So, I got that $10 TPMS reset tool... and I couldn't even get the first sensor (driver front) to do anything (i.e., honk the horn). Both tools at TireShop/Mechanic were able to get each tire to honk the horn once, they just couldn't get the DIC to display any tire pressures (i.e., couldn't get the TPMS light to go off). But I'm unable to do either (with tire pressure method -or- the newly purchased $10 TPMS reset tool). I followed the instructions... hell, there is only 1 button! I tried multiple times, and no luck. I'm presuming this all indicates I need to open my wallet yet again, and whip out at least $150+ to have the stealership fix their flawed firmware. It better not be more than that... and it better be only a one-time deal (not every-time the battery goes dead and I don't have a battery backup thing in the cigarette lighter).



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