Disappointing dyno post modifications; comments?
03-01-2016, 07:05 PM
#21
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Join Date: 02-08-2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 36
It ran well today. I'm trying to ignore the ever-optimistic butt-dyno (which is happy) but I have some more objective metrics I can point to that something wasn't before.
I'll get a fresh air filter while I'm doing maintenance items. But since I missed a fairly simple maintenance hole, any other obvious, simple items I could work? Oil is coming up soon but I don't expect to see more than 15-20 hp from that job
In short, I'm cautiously optimistic.
- The surging is mostly gone. That's been consistent so far.
- The turbo (and torque) comes on more quickly than before. Before the pedal felt like I was pressing on a big rubber band and there was a noticeable lag between when I'd apply x% throttle and I'd get x% torque.
- Torque is more available now. Along the lines of my last comment, but I'm basically having trouble testing WOT because I'm well past acceptable public speeds. So I've been using higher gears and bringing the boost up that way. I had the tires screaming in 3rd today. Skinny winter tires had something to do with that, but I was starting from 30 MPH (and these tires are done this year so I'm not trying to save them).
I'll get a fresh air filter while I'm doing maintenance items. But since I missed a fairly simple maintenance hole, any other obvious, simple items I could work? Oil is coming up soon but I don't expect to see more than 15-20 hp from that job
In short, I'm cautiously optimistic.
I don't know what the heck that means. Did my tune get corrupted or something? It's strange.
03-06-2016, 10:40 AM
#22
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Join Date: 02-08-2013
Location: Upstate, NY
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Update for the day: power is smooth and consistent. Turbo rolls in easily and quickly. However, peak boost is down in 1st - 3rd. It consistently tops at 20 lbs. In 5th I can push it to 25 lbs, but previously (when it wasn't running all that well) it would jump to 25 lbs in 2nd and 3rd (1st clearly being detuned).
I don't know what the heck that means. Did my tune get corrupted or something? It's strange.
I don't know what the heck that means. Did my tune get corrupted or something? It's strange.
After putting in a K&N drop-in in there I'll run it for a week and bring it back for another dyno pull. The shop owner sounded dubious (as in "don't expect much") but I'll post a pic of the plugs today and maybe it'll make sense to more seasoned turboers. I've never seen a plug like that but of the F/I vehicles we've owned, this is the only one we've held on to long enough for extended maintenance that wasn't a low pressure turbo (SAAB 900 / 9-3s and a Mazdaspeed MX-5 "Miata")
04-15-2016, 03:42 PM
#23
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Join Date: 02-08-2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 36
A little better, but not much and some squirrelliness besides...
Well, some update. It appeared to be running better, but on the dyno it went sort of nuts. A/F was bouncing around and the computer was clearly not happy about something. I don't know if it was the non-standard plugs or what.
While the peak numbers were better (~240 is about 280-290 crank HP), it's still well below expectations among this crowd. Best Tq peak was 315 at the wheels or ~370-380 depending on the driveline loss (I use 15% so the lower end of those ranges is my guess, but I don't know what's appropriate for the F35).
I'll be sending the results to Hahn for some more suggestions. The dyno guy has a contact at ZZP that I would consider calling as well, but I haven't bought anything from them and wouldn't want to solicit much without some sort of exchange of funds!
While the peak numbers were better (~240 is about 280-290 crank HP), it's still well below expectations among this crowd. Best Tq peak was 315 at the wheels or ~370-380 depending on the driveline loss (I use 15% so the lower end of those ranges is my guess, but I don't know what's appropriate for the F35).
I'll be sending the results to Hahn for some more suggestions. The dyno guy has a contact at ZZP that I would consider calling as well, but I haven't bought anything from them and wouldn't want to solicit much without some sort of exchange of funds!
04-16-2016, 07:55 PM
#25
Well, some update. It appeared to be running better, but on the dyno it went sort of nuts. A/F was bouncing around and the computer was clearly not happy about something. I don't know if it was the non-standard plugs or what.
While the peak numbers were better (~240 is about 280-290 crank HP), it's still well below expectations among this crowd. Best Tq peak was 315 at the wheels or ~370-380 depending on the driveline loss (I use 15% so the lower end of those ranges is my guess, but I don't know what's appropriate for the F35).
I'll be sending the results to Hahn for some more suggestions. The dyno guy has a contact at ZZP that I would consider calling as well, but I haven't bought anything from them and wouldn't want to solicit much without some sort of exchange of funds!
While the peak numbers were better (~240 is about 280-290 crank HP), it's still well below expectations among this crowd. Best Tq peak was 315 at the wheels or ~370-380 depending on the driveline loss (I use 15% so the lower end of those ranges is my guess, but I don't know what's appropriate for the F35).
I'll be sending the results to Hahn for some more suggestions. The dyno guy has a contact at ZZP that I would consider calling as well, but I haven't bought anything from them and wouldn't want to solicit much without some sort of exchange of funds!
04-17-2016, 08:09 AM
#26
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Join Date: 02-08-2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 36
Good question. The recommendation was:
NGK 4306 gapped to .030 (which was down from their boxed setting of .040).
MPG went up ~1 (at least that much is empirical) and overall power delivery seemed to improve. "Sportish" sedans that required 3/4+ throttle to beat out are smoked with far less pedal effort on my part (high 200 low 300 hp sedans and such). But the dyno behavior was so erratic, so I'm left scratching my head. I have not been noticing that type of behavior on the road. But we know how unreliable our desires and impressions are vs. reality. That's why we have calibrated instruments!
NGK 4306 gapped to .030 (which was down from their boxed setting of .040).
MPG went up ~1 (at least that much is empirical) and overall power delivery seemed to improve. "Sportish" sedans that required 3/4+ throttle to beat out are smoked with far less pedal effort on my part (high 200 low 300 hp sedans and such). But the dyno behavior was so erratic, so I'm left scratching my head. I have not been noticing that type of behavior on the road. But we know how unreliable our desires and impressions are vs. reality. That's why we have calibrated instruments!
04-17-2016, 08:16 AM
#27
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Join Date: 02-08-2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 36
It's download from Trifecta. I ordered it through Hahn. I applied it, logged it, sent them the results, they (Trifecta) called it good and that was that. Granted, they aren't seeing it directly; just that data log from the ECU shortly after installation.
I "made" my own wiring harness for the GM 3-bar sensor and I'm starting to suspect that's at least a contributing factor. I created "blades" using solder molds (slight grooves in a block of wood) for the end of the wiring that didn't have a plug, then taped and then shrink wrapped the bundle and tied it out of the way. It was a careful job, but it's an all year car in upstate NY. I'm thinking it could be getting some mild shorting at higher speeds ("crosstalk" whatever) or at least some noise.
When you have erratic behavior like that, electrical is a good start (of course it can also be a devil to troubleshoot)
I "made" my own wiring harness for the GM 3-bar sensor and I'm starting to suspect that's at least a contributing factor. I created "blades" using solder molds (slight grooves in a block of wood) for the end of the wiring that didn't have a plug, then taped and then shrink wrapped the bundle and tied it out of the way. It was a careful job, but it's an all year car in upstate NY. I'm thinking it could be getting some mild shorting at higher speeds ("crosstalk" whatever) or at least some noise.
When you have erratic behavior like that, electrical is a good start (of course it can also be a devil to troubleshoot)
04-17-2016, 10:27 PM
#28
It's download from Trifecta. I ordered it through Hahn. I applied it, logged it, sent them the results, they (Trifecta) called it good and that was that. Granted, they aren't seeing it directly; just that data log from the ECU shortly after installation.
I "made" my own wiring harness for the GM 3-bar sensor and I'm starting to suspect that's at least a contributing factor. I created "blades" using solder molds (slight grooves in a block of wood) for the end of the wiring that didn't have a plug, then taped and then shrink wrapped the bundle and tied it out of the way. It was a careful job, but it's an all year car in upstate NY. I'm thinking it could be getting some mild shorting at higher speeds ("crosstalk" whatever) or at least some noise.
When you have erratic behavior like that, electrical is a good start (of course it can also be a devil to troubleshoot)
I "made" my own wiring harness for the GM 3-bar sensor and I'm starting to suspect that's at least a contributing factor. I created "blades" using solder molds (slight grooves in a block of wood) for the end of the wiring that didn't have a plug, then taped and then shrink wrapped the bundle and tied it out of the way. It was a careful job, but it's an all year car in upstate NY. I'm thinking it could be getting some mild shorting at higher speeds ("crosstalk" whatever) or at least some noise.
When you have erratic behavior like that, electrical is a good start (of course it can also be a devil to troubleshoot)
04-18-2016, 08:36 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-08-2013
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 36
Understandably, going further remotely is difficult. My trouble is finding a good Ecotec expert locally. My dyno guy has experience but is not an expert.
I'm thinking I'll drop in some exactly stock plugs, order a wiring harness and see what happens next.
I have to keep this thing boiling until the RS hits the lightly used market (I know, no Ford talk on a Chevy forum... If only they would make a 2nd gen HHR SS with AWD...
)
