2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

Charge pipe help (Automatic)

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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #21  
Breadfan's Avatar
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No offense taken foolmoon. I admit that I'm better at computers than wrench-turning. Now, maybe someone can keep me from being misguided. As I understand it, the piping system is like a pressurized reservoir that the engine "pulls" from. (turbo compression pressure means each "pull" includes more air) Compressed air should create the same psi throughout the whole sealed system. Bigger pipes would equal the same volume of air at a lower psi. If the pipes after the intercooler are smaller than the upper pipes, the only issue would be that it would limit the volume available at a specific psi. Provided you are not pushing a psi that exceeds the structural integrity of any part in the system, you are good to go. Replacing the cold-side pipe and intercooler gives you the ability to substantially exceed the stock psi without failure. Replacing the hot-side pipes only is still worthwhile as flat plastic pipe seems to be the weakest point that causes the most damage when it fails. Someone want to jump in and support me or educate me?
Old Mar 31, 2012 | 02:30 PM
  #22  
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Ahhhh! will someone answer my question on how to get the stock coupler clamps off???. lol do I cut them, or pound them off? ive never seen this style before and I dont wanna break them just incase i have to put the stock hot side back on.
Old Apr 1, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #23  
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Mine were tight too, worked a small screwdriver in there to break them loose, the cold side was harder than the hot side, I didn't have to cut anything, maybe a little wd40 in there will help.
Old Apr 1, 2012 | 08:22 PM
  #24  
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Ok sweet, thank you!
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 12:10 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 08SSREDHHR
Ahhhh! will someone answer my question on how to get the stock coupler clamps off???. lol do I cut them, or pound them off? ive never seen this style before and I dont wanna break them just incase i have to put the stock hot side back on.
I'm confused. Why are you trying to separate the rubber from the plastic?
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 06:23 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by XtremeSS
I'm confused. Why are you trying to separate the rubber from the plastic?
Im not getting the upgraded couplers, my buddies on stock couplers with no problems and he's at 24psi with zzp's hot side. I was considering the cold side to but no point if the stock one works fine. Im not going for crazy power anyway, my goal is 280-300whp and 320-340wtq so the stock cold side will be fine.. Idk what this auto transmission is capable of either, thats something else that im concerned with.

I wanted to take this piece off without breaking it, Everything ive read stated to cut them off.
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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 06:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 08SSREDHHR
Im not getting the upgraded couplers, my buddies on stock couplers with no problems and he's at 24psi with zzp's hot side. I was considering the cold side to but no point if the stock one works fine. Im not going for crazy power anyway, my goal is 280-300whp and 320-340wtq so the stock cold side will be fine.. Idk what this auto transmission is capable of either, thats something else that im concerned with.

I wanted to take this piece off without breaking it, Everything ive read stated to cut them off.
You can buy a Spectre brand coupler at most auto parts stores for cheap
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #28  
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[QUOTE=08SSREDHHR;632211]Im not getting the upgraded couplers, my buddies on stock couplers with no problems and he's at 24psi with zzp's hot side. I was considering the cold side to but no point if the stock one works fine. Im not going for crazy power anyway, my goal is 280-300whp and 320-340wtq so the stock cold side will be fine.. Idk what this auto transmission is capable of either, thats something else that im concerned with.

I wanted to take this piece off without breaking it, Everything ive read stated to cut them off.

Ic. I would not reuse those as they prone to leaking from the factory. Just cut them off with a dremel and use t-bolt clamps instead. BTW, the auto tranny is capable of 500 hp based of what I have read in these forums.
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 02:02 PM
  #29  
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Transmission based on torque not hp. FYI

Auto is rated at 450 ft lbs and think its at 2200rpms. So for most of us something yes will break before tranny



Like mentioned get other coupler vibrant is one I used...
Old Apr 2, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by EcotecRacer
Transmission based on torque not hp. FYI

Auto is rated at 450 ft lbs and think its at 2200rpms. So for most of us something yes will break before tranny



Like mentioned get other coupler vibrant is one I used...
Wow really...That changes everything. lol With full bolts/tune I dont think im capable over 315hp/340wtq.

[QUOTE=XtremeSS;632284]
Originally Posted by 08SSREDHHR
Im not getting the upgraded couplers, my buddies on stock couplers with no problems and he's at 24psi with zzp's hot side. I was considering the cold side to but no point if the stock one works fine. Im not going for crazy power anyway, my goal is 280-300whp and 320-340wtq so the stock cold side will be fine.. Idk what this auto transmission is capable of either, thats something else that im concerned with.

I wanted to take this piece off without breaking it, Everything ive read stated to cut them off.

Ic. I would not reuse those as they prone to leaking from the factory. Just cut them off with a dremel and use t-bolt clamps instead. BTW, the auto tranny is capable of 500 hp based of what I have read in these forums.
Yea i think im just gonna do that, much easier. Thanks for the help.



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