Like SSA says you cant rush perfection.... They fix the rest and BUILD the BEST......These guys a very meticulous on there stuff.....The 10th aint that far being that I been at work now for 47 days straight....

 

in for results then ^_^

 

i would love to have one, but if they're only making this last batch, i guess it's a no go for me, as i don't have the money to do it now, especially with me leaving for AF BMT in 3 weeks.

 

Well keep me informed...They would probably make them but they need the Original to make others and Im not home all the time....

 

is it the 10th yet? this is takin long =p

 

I got my hands on a used SSA CAI

I'm going to paint it (I'm not into the polished look) and throw it on in a few days.

All the welds looks good, Maf pad welded good, 3" pipe from filter to the turbo.

My only complaint I can see is no bracket to support the intake on the valve cover or some other area and no pvc breather connection, though someone installed one on to mine.

I'm going to tack weld me a bracket on myself.

 

its the 10th ^_^

 

I passes on a K&N intake for $65.00, I figured the K&N filter I have is good enough for now.

 

I really don't know what all the fuss is about for a decent CAI, when a fix for a decent one that works, is right under your nose.
First a little history, then the fix.
Due to the location of the SS airbox[in which the air filter resides] any outside air[read cool air] does'nt have a chance of heating up before it is sucked into the airbox and into the turbo with my setup[depending on vehicle speed].
Looking closely at the layout under the hood, any unused air to quickly sucked out on each lower side of the hood, or against the firewall and out the bottom,[also depending on vehicle speed]. Thats why the hood isn't sealed up tight. Think it was designed that way, for that reason. Air under the hood does'nt stay there very long, and really not long enough to heat up, if any.
Now, my little cheap trick.
I trimmed off the top rounded part of the plastic panel that covers the top of the radiator, giving air from the grille area, a more straighter shot to the airbox area. Then I spaced up the airbox lid ,to get in the airstream of the incomning air, and also removed the side air box duct to the fender. Now I have two sources of cooler air into the engine. Survey says: Sure don't hurt, and seems to help, and sounds wicked to boot. Quick, easy and cheap[read- Free].
I'm sure to get some negative B.S. from the resident "rocket scientist's" over this, but I have put my firesuit on, so "Flame" away. "Moon"
P.S. I have been running this setup for about a year now, and No, it does'nt throw any codes.

 

Moon, is on to something. I did the same thing a couple of months ago, after changing out the exhaust. Again, no codes. still boosting hard 24-25 and sounds better, too. I jacked the lid up about 1/2" all the way around. I'm still trying to mod an 90's z-28 flat intake to fit onto the box, and then occupy the space above the radiator, inbetween the top crossmember. the problem I'm haveing is trying to work around the vac lines and t-map, on top of the manifold, and still not rub the hood. If that doesn't work I'm gonna cut a hole in the hood where the air-box sits and mount a scoop to it.. think firebird. I think it might look good off-set.