2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

GM Performance Parts Turbo Upgrade Kit

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Old 08-18-2012, 07:34 AM
  #531  
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I first figured well there are different tune numbers for different items on these cars but I can only think of one difference and that is the vaccum brake assist pump on some.
I am still trying to figure out why my boost is not consistent
I am ok with an answer of that is what it is supposed to do if that really is what it is supposed to do.
but that just does not seem to be the case.
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Old 08-20-2012, 04:48 AM
  #532  
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Originally Posted by bigjacksauto
I first figured well there are different tune numbers for different items on these cars but I can only think of one difference and that is the vaccum brake assist pump on some.
I am still trying to figure out why my boost is not consistent
I am ok with an answer of that is what it is supposed to do if that really is what it is supposed to do.
but that just does not seem to be the case.
I had the same issue and I've noted this before (this is the short list), but here is what I've done and the very bottom line is the easy fix.

I had the wires soldered not crimped - twice . . .Still surged.

I had the IC moved up 1/2 inch or so . . . Still surged.

I put in a tubrotech top motor mount for rigidity . . . Still surged.

I bought a complete new wiring harness and crate engine depot connectors to get rid of the splices . . . Still surged.

I replaced the high pressure fuel pump . . . Still surged.

Then (under warranty) the car started throwing cels. turned out even with all of the above, the bottom sensor was still hitting the AC compressor so the dealer tech just flipped the sensor so the pigtails faced the front of the car.

I know this isn't suppose to work but since then 4,000 miles or so . . . rock solid, stable, pulls straight and true from a hard stop or just nailing it on the go. No surge either cold or hot, no cut out, no nothing.



IMO

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Old 08-20-2012, 04:58 AM
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Thanks for sharing that.
Was the lower radiator.mount moved to give space for lower sensor to be moved?
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:16 AM
  #534  
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Well it i sounding more and more like I should either have the lower sensor moved 180 degrees or do it myself.
From a dead stop mine appears to work properly it seems to go to 20 plus pounds of boost then a second before it shifts into the next gear the boost drops to 16-18 sometimes only to 20 then about a second after the shift it comes back up.
I am thinking the car is trying to save the drivetrain by reducing power between shifts.
When I am driving along at 60 as i Mentioned before if I floor it I only get 15-16 psi
but if I let off the gas and let the car create vacuum and then floor it I get about 22-23psi but then at times it will drop boost a little.

Foolmoon I noticed in this thread that I believe you are getting 25-26 psi.
may be the mods you have doing that?
anyhow I would like to mount the sensor 180 degrees but it would hit the fan shroud.
To anyone who has this 180 degree mount done what exactly did you do or have done to have the mount have clear.]
It appears that If I fabricated 2 pieces of metal I could move the lower radiator mounts about 2 inches towards the front of the car?
not sure if the radiator hoses would allow that though.

Any pics or advice would be great.

thanks
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:22 AM
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Here are two shots. I had no choice but to do this modification, the HAHN piping in no way shape or form, allowed for mounting of the T-Map any other way. Alot of people just change out the hot-side. I did mine over two weekends. Hot-side first. It wasn't really ballanced until I changed out the cold pipe.

The first one shows the brackets I made. 1/4" strap steel, using all existing hardware. You can get the strap at home depot or lowes and the holes are pre-drilled. I would avoid cheap zinc pre-cut strap brackets, as they are just too flimsy. Also, I recommend painting these pieces to avoid future rust. Looks like I need to touch mine up. You can also see another blury T-Map and its clearance.

2nd shot shows the T-Map turned around 180* and clearly shows about an 1" clearance all around. I have not had a problem since doing this 4 years ago. I think I might have been one of the first people to do this. Also, I think the fact that the piping is steel, there is less flex all the way around, the TTR upper mount also helped. The T-Map sits nicely under neath the overflow container. The radiator is close to the IC but you can still get a peice of paper between them no problem.

I think since I have an '08 the computer is more adeptable to bolt-ons, I almost believe they mucked with the ECM on '09-10, especially hearing how people are adding toys and still only seeing 18-21psi.
I have been pushing 24-25psi on just the GMTU and have a best 1/8 @ 8.84 on on cheapie Eagle GT's. I've said it over and over the GMTU in '08 turns the learn-down feature off, and allows the ecm to recognize a DP, IC, piping, etc. RobSS has an '09 and just had his intake P&P'd he says he now needs another tune for it. I would question if the same is true for '08, I bet it isn't. Something else to check for, on '08 your allowed to add a 5th injector, can this be done on '09-10?
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:09 AM
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Foolmoon thanks for the info.
Supposedly the 09 and 010have the learn down feature turned down as well.
Mine will boost to 23 at times .
Just figured I should do the 180 degree turn.

Did you basically just unbolt the three bolts
pull the lower radiator towards the front of the car then.
add in the extensions and thats it or did you run into any issues with the radiator hoses or anything else? I should look out for.
sounds like one of those simple jobs but probably will turn into a couple hour deal.
any idea how long you extended the lower radiator out.?
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:26 AM
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I have the clear image automotive (CIA)charge pipes. And I was in the same position christian was in. I could not mount the MAP sensor the "traditional" way because of the piping. With my zzp Ic, I only had 3/4" to play with so I made new radiator brackets 3/4" longer. My radiator now sits about 3/16" away from my big ass ZZP. Note that we both have aftermarket cold side pipes which is y we are limited in map sensor clearance solutions. The location of our lower sensors will vary from yours. I do not think u need to make brackets.
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:41 AM
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bigjack... Before you try any of these remedies posted, have you checked to see if you have a clearance issue with the wiring/compressor?
Do the "old school" test. Put a dab of grease on the compressor where it would contact the T-map wiring. Go drive the snot out of the car. If the grease transfers to the wiring from contact, then it's hitting and you have an issue. If no grease, then you have clearance. No need to make any extra clearance if it's not needed. Just my personal thought and experience on this.
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:04 PM
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Mike, there are rubber free floating mounts at the top of radiator, so nothing needs to be done there. I just moved mine about 1.5" just to be safe. It automatically transfered this movement to the top posts. there is plenty of play in the radiator hose, no issues there either.
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:33 PM
  #540  
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Originally Posted by bigjacksauto
Thanks for sharing that.
Was the lower radiator.mount moved to give space for lower sensor to be moved?
In my experience with the HHR SS, I'd first do the least invasive procedure first.

I've spent thousands chasing down an issue that was fixed with a ten minute flip.

I'm not saying it will work on your car, heck, it seems all HHR SS's have their own mind.

Someone mentioned the 2009 was more locked down than the 2008, but I know that my 2008 still learns down to some extent. I can reflash the stock tune and it will pick up the mods and have more power, but 10 or twenty drives later, power will drop.

With the stock tune, at sea level (Southern California) and using 91 octane fuel (California) I pull a constant 21 to 22 pounds according to the guage, others get 24, some get less.

This is an incredibly polarizing car. Some people that either own it or even see it rave about it. I get more compliments on this car than any car I've ever owned, but the flip side is the people that have issues loathe it and regardless of generation some people just can't stand it.

It also is a very sensitive car. Some people jack around and change everything with no issue, some can't add a K+N without throwing a cel. It's all very vehicle specific and I think a lot depends how you drive.

But back to your question, yes I had the IC moved up using washers by about 1/2 inch or so and thought it fixed it . . . it didn't.



IMO


P.S. somewhat off topic, but in LA the police give this car more negative attention than any car I've owned and that includes Mistubishi Evos with the monster wing, cobras, tricked out Elanor style Mustangs. I've probably been pulled over 4 times in the last few months and the cops see me pass by at 30 mph, do a u-tun and follow it for a dozen blocks, then turn off.

One night pulling out from a parking garage, a cop car on a very busy street noticed it and locked his brakes up in the middle of the intersection (nearly causing a major accident) to stare at it and then set there for a minute or two until I came to the intersection, then drove off.

I don't get it, but I also have a 2007 impala SS with headers, magnaflows and blacked out windows so it's loud (not legal in some of LA) and have passed police on the 10 doing 10 to 15 miles per hour faster and they don't blink an eye.

If I did this in the HHR SS, I'd be pulled over daily.
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