Happiness is on its way!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-2008
Posts: 2,075
From: Knoxville, TN
Yeah, in the rain and snow.... I finished the install, and eventhough it was a pain in the ass, the end result is worth it... 22+ solid! I had to fab some radiator mounts out of some 3/16" flat stock, but all is well. The T-Map has a lot more freedom to move now that it is facing foward. I had the wiring soldered a long timeago, but I would still notice some intermitent power loss on a WOT, from it hitting the AC compressor. Now that the sensor is free, the throttle response is consistent at WOT. Pics tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-2008
Posts: 2,075
From: Knoxville, TN
Ok here come some shots... not that great though. THIS IS THE HOT-SIDE PIPES INSTALL
1st Pic. Fresh out the box. All the couplers were individually packaged, as was the T-Map set screws and Vacumn nipple. Each of the four pipes were wrapped separalely and the whole thing was packed in peanuts. The box itself was in good condition. There are 3 diffrent size couplers and 2 types of T-Bolts, pay attention to this, as instructions are nil.
2nd Pic. After removing the stock one-piece rubber/plastic combo pipe, the first piece goes on pretty easy. this pipe uses the small to medium taper coupler, and 2 sizes of T-Bolts. the one at the turbo inlet tightens all the way, almost. (after installing these pipes I popped this fitting at about 100mph and 22-23lbs boost. sounds like a blow-out and the car just nose dives) I cannot stress enough, TIGHTEN, DRIVE, TIGHTEN! (a good memory or a sharpie will let you know if there is slippage on the couplers)
3rd Pic. Shows where the bottom pipe inserts into the IC. It is fairly easy to get to, once you remove the plastic flashing covering the area(2 push tabs, and 2 hex-head self-tappers). It is a tad bit tricky putting the new pipe in place, and some Houdini stuff is needed while twisting the pipe into its proper orientation(weird as it seems, you kinda have to stick it in up-sidedown and twist it).
4th Pic. Shows all 3 of the Hot-Side pipes installed. My only complaint is there is no mounting bracket solution, which would have saved another members hood from a dent due to worm clamps letting go. I may just strap it down somehow,(ugly zip ties) to the existing mount point from the stock pipe.
5th Pic. This is the 2nd mother of all tiny spaces. A 10mil long socket is your friend, but don't look to get more than 2 or 3 clicks at a time. With the way that the pipe flexes under boost right now, I may turn the T-Bolts around, they are a little close to some radiator hosing. It is possible to put the pipe in place with the coupler and T-Bolt already on. The 2nd T-Bolt can be reached from the top.
Overall, the Hot-Side took 1.5hrs and thats from digging out some tools to putting said tools away. on a 1-5 scale of wrenching it's a 2(simply cuz ya got to get on your back). Tools are minimal... except when pulling the stock pipe free, lots and lots of elbow is required.
1st Pic. Fresh out the box. All the couplers were individually packaged, as was the T-Map set screws and Vacumn nipple. Each of the four pipes were wrapped separalely and the whole thing was packed in peanuts. The box itself was in good condition. There are 3 diffrent size couplers and 2 types of T-Bolts, pay attention to this, as instructions are nil.
2nd Pic. After removing the stock one-piece rubber/plastic combo pipe, the first piece goes on pretty easy. this pipe uses the small to medium taper coupler, and 2 sizes of T-Bolts. the one at the turbo inlet tightens all the way, almost. (after installing these pipes I popped this fitting at about 100mph and 22-23lbs boost. sounds like a blow-out and the car just nose dives) I cannot stress enough, TIGHTEN, DRIVE, TIGHTEN! (a good memory or a sharpie will let you know if there is slippage on the couplers)
3rd Pic. Shows where the bottom pipe inserts into the IC. It is fairly easy to get to, once you remove the plastic flashing covering the area(2 push tabs, and 2 hex-head self-tappers). It is a tad bit tricky putting the new pipe in place, and some Houdini stuff is needed while twisting the pipe into its proper orientation(weird as it seems, you kinda have to stick it in up-sidedown and twist it).
4th Pic. Shows all 3 of the Hot-Side pipes installed. My only complaint is there is no mounting bracket solution, which would have saved another members hood from a dent due to worm clamps letting go. I may just strap it down somehow,(ugly zip ties) to the existing mount point from the stock pipe.
5th Pic. This is the 2nd mother of all tiny spaces. A 10mil long socket is your friend, but don't look to get more than 2 or 3 clicks at a time. With the way that the pipe flexes under boost right now, I may turn the T-Bolts around, they are a little close to some radiator hosing. It is possible to put the pipe in place with the coupler and T-Bolt already on. The 2nd T-Bolt can be reached from the top.
Overall, the Hot-Side took 1.5hrs and thats from digging out some tools to putting said tools away. on a 1-5 scale of wrenching it's a 2(simply cuz ya got to get on your back). Tools are minimal... except when pulling the stock pipe free, lots and lots of elbow is required.
Last edited by foolmoon_design; Dec 15, 2010 at 07:08 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-2008
Posts: 2,075
From: Knoxville, TN
Now for the COLD-SIDE PIPE! Bastard!
OK before I describe the pics... This was a pain! But, after seeing it finished I am a happy camper, eventhough I scratched the crap out of it while putting it in twice! If you do this mod, reverse the sensor. The new mounting deck on HANN's pipe is about 3/4" taller than the stock mount and causes the t-map to not allow the pipe to meet up with the couplers. Now that the T-Map is facing foward, it wants to hit the fan shroud on the radiator, so ya gotta move the radiator foward a bit. about 1.5" It also helps tremendously to go ahead and un-do the radiator(the shape of the pipe prohibits getting it in any other way, Houdini don't work here. Cussing and brute force on the other hand.)
1st Pic. From the top you can see the T-map facing front and farther away from the AC, I also, placed the vacumn hose on the other side of some harness wiring, as it looked ?more comfortable? there instead of the other side. It takes quite a bit of fidigiting with the couplers and pipe to get a good connection with no obstructions in the touching department.
2nd Pic. My "Bubba" mounts. just some 3/16" flat bar with some holes. I don't want to keep this this way, eventhough it will most likely be fine. (I will draw up a mount in CAD, and post in another thread, really simple)
3rd Pic. Hot-Side into IC. I really wanted a good seat for the coupler that went into the intake, so I now carry a 10mill deep socket in the GB just in case theis pipe lets go. In order for the Cold-Side to have plenty of clearance there is not much meat on the bone on HANN's pipe when coupling to the IC. A quick remedy would be a longer coupler. Once again easy to get at these T-Bolts.
4th Pic. This is a *****! Especially to get the stock fitting off! This is also where the one slightly larger T-Bolt and a medium to large coupler go. If you do this pipe you may be amazed at how little seat is provided on the intake pleneum, I never got a tape on it, but it couldn't have been more than an inch! You can't get the cold-side pipe in with the couplers attached like you can with the hot-side, so putting the medium to large one in is a pain in the butt! I found it easier to attcah from underneath while a buddy wrenched from up top. The second T-bolt is only reachable from underneath.
5th Pic. This shows the T-Map with no obstructions at all. Seeing this makes the install of this pipe seem worth it. When I took the old pipe out, I couldn't get a finger between the T-Map and the AC. Now I can easily get a finger in there, and at WOT the pipe will flex down and away from the radiator resivior.
Things you can learn from my mistakes!
1. Don't install this pipe! (you actually lose some of the turbo sound after installing this pipe. Car sounds bad-ass, but a little more pronounced when just the Hot pipes were installed)
2. If you don't like step 1, then turn the T-Map around. I had to do this twice and scratched the pipe badly trying to remove it.
3. Undo the radiator.(you have no choice as the pipe has to slip between the mount area)
4. A cheap way to move the radiator is to buy some flat stock at a hardware store and drill a couple of holes. The radiator is pretty light and the existing mount is maybe 1/8" thick. You don't have to worry about the upper mounts as they have plenty of travel room.
5. In order to get the T-map un-hooked before removing the stock pipe, I suggest using a thimble as the release is on-top of the sensor and super close to the AC. I still have a sore-spot on my pointing finger.
OK before I describe the pics... This was a pain! But, after seeing it finished I am a happy camper, eventhough I scratched the crap out of it while putting it in twice! If you do this mod, reverse the sensor. The new mounting deck on HANN's pipe is about 3/4" taller than the stock mount and causes the t-map to not allow the pipe to meet up with the couplers. Now that the T-Map is facing foward, it wants to hit the fan shroud on the radiator, so ya gotta move the radiator foward a bit. about 1.5" It also helps tremendously to go ahead and un-do the radiator(the shape of the pipe prohibits getting it in any other way, Houdini don't work here. Cussing and brute force on the other hand.)
1st Pic. From the top you can see the T-map facing front and farther away from the AC, I also, placed the vacumn hose on the other side of some harness wiring, as it looked ?more comfortable? there instead of the other side. It takes quite a bit of fidigiting with the couplers and pipe to get a good connection with no obstructions in the touching department.
2nd Pic. My "Bubba" mounts. just some 3/16" flat bar with some holes. I don't want to keep this this way, eventhough it will most likely be fine. (I will draw up a mount in CAD, and post in another thread, really simple)
3rd Pic. Hot-Side into IC. I really wanted a good seat for the coupler that went into the intake, so I now carry a 10mill deep socket in the GB just in case theis pipe lets go. In order for the Cold-Side to have plenty of clearance there is not much meat on the bone on HANN's pipe when coupling to the IC. A quick remedy would be a longer coupler. Once again easy to get at these T-Bolts.
4th Pic. This is a *****! Especially to get the stock fitting off! This is also where the one slightly larger T-Bolt and a medium to large coupler go. If you do this pipe you may be amazed at how little seat is provided on the intake pleneum, I never got a tape on it, but it couldn't have been more than an inch! You can't get the cold-side pipe in with the couplers attached like you can with the hot-side, so putting the medium to large one in is a pain in the butt! I found it easier to attcah from underneath while a buddy wrenched from up top. The second T-bolt is only reachable from underneath.
5th Pic. This shows the T-Map with no obstructions at all. Seeing this makes the install of this pipe seem worth it. When I took the old pipe out, I couldn't get a finger between the T-Map and the AC. Now I can easily get a finger in there, and at WOT the pipe will flex down and away from the radiator resivior.
Things you can learn from my mistakes!
1. Don't install this pipe! (you actually lose some of the turbo sound after installing this pipe. Car sounds bad-ass, but a little more pronounced when just the Hot pipes were installed)
2. If you don't like step 1, then turn the T-Map around. I had to do this twice and scratched the pipe badly trying to remove it.
3. Undo the radiator.(you have no choice as the pipe has to slip between the mount area)
4. A cheap way to move the radiator is to buy some flat stock at a hardware store and drill a couple of holes. The radiator is pretty light and the existing mount is maybe 1/8" thick. You don't have to worry about the upper mounts as they have plenty of travel room.
5. In order to get the T-map un-hooked before removing the stock pipe, I suggest using a thimble as the release is on-top of the sensor and super close to the AC. I still have a sore-spot on my pointing finger.
Last edited by foolmoon_design; Dec 15, 2010 at 07:14 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-04-2010
Posts: 1,584
From: Imported from Detroit
WOW nothing like making me not want to tackle that project!!
Further I can't believe they don't use the top mount next to the airbox.
Also, could you please comment on this thread of mine since you were just under there. TNX!
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-ss-45/front-under-cowl-32960/
Further I can't believe they don't use the top mount next to the airbox.
Also, could you please comment on this thread of mine since you were just under there. TNX!
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-ss-45/front-under-cowl-32960/
Senior Member
Joined: 07-15-2009
Posts: 2,070
From: Waterbury CT
Funny how you have a black SS and went w/ red pipes and I have a red SS and went with black pipes.... Good pics, now I really don't want to do the hotside pipe! I'll get mine on eventually, maybe I'll pay my mechanic to get the coldside pipe on. Looks good though!
Later
Allex
Later
Allex
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