rallycobalt06,
use to like to argue/bash that the BNR2871GT turbo was a waste of money, crappy results, etc, etc.

But yet he bought my BNR2871GT off me that was on my HHR SS when I got the 2011 Buick Regal Turbo.

Funny how things like that work sometimes.

I'm not going to hold it against him because he seems like a ok dude, I just think his emotions and other people's opinions get in the way of his judgement.

I'm not saying hes always wrong about his post because he does have pretty good mechanical knowledge for the most part, its just none of us know everything.

Live and learn.

 

i bought it because you gave me a great price on it...... the price that in all honesty it should be straight from BNR. well that and my goals with my HHR has changed a good bit and the BNR will get it there.

thanks for the compliments.

 

i've done my fair share of research of how a turbo works..... maybe you should freshen up because this isn't the stone age or Aeronautics were turbos were hot air style. we have this thing called an intercooler mounted to the front of the vehicle that cools the IAT as it passes thru because of the air flow going thru it.

your goal is to get colder air into the ENGINE, not the turbo. so look at tht e IAT2s...... those are the more important numbers because that's the actual temps of the air going into the engine.

so once again, getting colder air into a hot turbo is pointless.

the best way to lower the IAT2s = better intercooler and/or spray water/meth.

but if you absolutely want to waste your time & money doing a "cold air intake" for the turbo..... get a custom aluminum piping done to the fender well AND wrap it DEI wrap.

 

while i agree about 90% with this we do also have a maf sensor and its readings will affect the ecm

 

This is your best bet:

 

with our application the MAF sensor reads air flow & temp going into the turbo, not into the engine like n/a applications. he wants to get colder air into the engine.

air flow into the turbo is much more important than air temps going into the turbo. i say that because the turbo compressor housing gets very hot inside & out, so no matter what intake setup you come up with the air temp will get affected.

nothing wrong with doing a custom intake to help with flow into the turbo, because that does help. stock intake pipe from the air box to turbo is very restrictive, unfortunately the k&n pipe is barely better. stock air box also draws cool air from the fender well. so in my personal opinion the best intake setup is the stock air box with k&n filter wrapped in DEI wrap & custom pipe from air box to turbo.

 

As you know, the thermal efficiency of an intercooler is fixed. That is, it can only change a set amount of air, a set number of degrees, based on its flow and conductive capabilities (and to a lesser extent, convective). That efficiency CANNOT be changed without changing the design of the unit (ie, adding more conductive surface area). Fourier's law is, like all laws, pretty strict in its implication. When the inlet temperature of a system is 100°, and the system has a 50% efficiency (made up for mathematical simplicity), you can expect to see outlet temperatures to be 50°. That is an immutable physical law... which doesn't change, even for you. As such, if that same system has an inlet temperature of 80°, we will see outlet temperatures of 40°. Your assertion that it doesn't matter what inlet temperatures are is, frankly, silly. The lower the inlet temperature, the lower the outlet temperature, period.

As you also know, Charles' Law (and its counterpart, Boyle's Law) describes the relationship between pressure, temperature, and volume of gasses (like, say, air). You will not find a single scientist on the planet who will dispute these laws, which (simplified) state that, as temperature rises, volume rises (or, if given a fixed volume, pressure rises, in the form, pV = nRT). As temperature rises, this means LESS air can be fit into a volume-limited system (like, say, an engine). So, as temperature rises, and less air can be put into the engine, power output drops. In case you doubt this, next summer, drive your car to Death Valley (elevation 282ft, 120° F) and put it on a dyno. Then drive your car to New York City in January (elevation 400ft, 32° F) and again put it on a dyno. When you compare the results, the reason for the difference in power won't be because New York makes better pizza.

You are welcome to doubt, disbelieve, and debate these immutable laws of physics, but you will continue to be wrong, and arm-chairing this topic may not be the best thing.

BTW, turbocharger technology has not changed in any meaningful way since "the stone age," when they were invented. The only significant changes have been related to operational efficiencies (ie, better flow, better spin, better loading, etc.).

That is all.

 

Dam , I missed this guy ! He needs a freakin TV show.

 

I put my stock set up back on the SS , Went threw a bunch of cycles , And i am now , Not throwing codes ,
But have noticed that , On average the stock intake is running 10-12 degrees hotter than the open box , big filter , hood scoop set up , During an hour and forty min. drive into the city today. Per the aeroforce gauges.

Not much more i can say. Open air inducted into the intake as quickly , and pathless as can be done (hood scoop) (forced air holes) , Will lower overall temps.

It's nice to have someone that could be considered a rocket scientist on this site.
All hail XXL

 

Getting cooler air into the intake, no matter how you do it, helps. The air is not in a hot turbo long enough to heat up enought to matter. It's in and out in a mila-sec.
I've ran my SS, in different configurations, lid off, lid on, hood scoop opened, hood scoop closed. Hood scoop open by far has best results. Works for me. "Moon"