Installing an Oil Catch Can
03-13-2016, 03:34 PM
#191
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Whatever Ford problem this "clean side" can is addressing, we don't have the problem, and so don't need the can. From what I can tell, anyway.
03-19-2016, 01:13 PM
#192
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Just as an update I installed a Harbor Freight small air compressor filter on the line going to and from the turbo inlet. Thinking the filter I made was wrong. After 200 miles no oil in the can.
I even used a 1/8" pipe tap and installed a plug where the drain valve was to make sure there wasn't going to be a problem in that area.
I'm using a K&N intake pipe to the turbo and it doesn't have a "snorkel" built into it like the OEM tube.
Maybe that's why no oil is in the can? The "snorkel" does help force fresh air into the crankcase.
I even used a 1/8" pipe tap and installed a plug where the drain valve was to make sure there wasn't going to be a problem in that area.
I'm using a K&N intake pipe to the turbo and it doesn't have a "snorkel" built into it like the OEM tube.
Maybe that's why no oil is in the can? The "snorkel" does help force fresh air into the crankcase.
03-19-2016, 01:55 PM
#193
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Remember that your catch can in that line can only catch vapors while boosting pretty good.
Since crankcase pressure is higher when boosting, due to more blow-by, and vacuum from the turbo is weak, I'm guessing that flow in the (fresh air in) line tries to reverse direction, closing the check valve. I don't think fresh air enters the crankcase when boosting.
Maybe you don't spend much time boosting hard?
But here's another thought. Maybe, without a fresh air in line, your line between the valve cover and turbo is being used as a fresh air in during high vacuum, and the manifold vacuum is pulling the vapors back into the crankcase before they can get to your catch can. Without a fresh air in, the turbo would lose that Tug-O-War I've been theorizing about.
Since crankcase pressure is higher when boosting, due to more blow-by, and vacuum from the turbo is weak, I'm guessing that flow in the (fresh air in) line tries to reverse direction, closing the check valve. I don't think fresh air enters the crankcase when boosting.
Maybe you don't spend much time boosting hard?
But here's another thought. Maybe, without a fresh air in line, your line between the valve cover and turbo is being used as a fresh air in during high vacuum, and the manifold vacuum is pulling the vapors back into the crankcase before they can get to your catch can. Without a fresh air in, the turbo would lose that Tug-O-War I've been theorizing about.
03-19-2016, 06:58 PM
#194
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I found a PCV valve that I like for use as a check valve, PCV141, under $5 at AZ.
It required some modification(grinding off the threads) to fit my 11/32 hose on it. I did most of the grinding with the bench grinder, frequently cooling it with water, then chucked it into my cordless drill and filed the rest.
Here is the routing for when I begin phase 2 (1 catch can, vacuums teed together with the check valve).
Phase 3 will be simply switching to the other vapor draw point.
It required some modification(grinding off the threads) to fit my 11/32 hose on it. I did most of the grinding with the bench grinder, frequently cooling it with water, then chucked it into my cordless drill and filed the rest.
Here is the routing for when I begin phase 2 (1 catch can, vacuums teed together with the check valve).
Phase 3 will be simply switching to the other vapor draw point.
03-20-2016, 06:47 AM
#195
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You are correct, I don't boost hard a lot. I do have a fresh air line to the intake pipe but like I said it's a K&N. There is no tube inside it to help force fresh air into the valve cover. I should install the OEM pipe and see if that helps.
03-20-2016, 10:36 AM
#196
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Oh OK, I misread. You have the fresh air in, just not the "mini ram air" snorkel.
The OEM pipe is certainly worth a try. I wouldn't expect it to help much, but maybe some.
Do you have a check valve in the fresh air line? I think it's important. Without one, some vapor is moving towards the can, but some is moving in the fresh air line, too, the airspeed of both is slowed, the vapor more likely to drop out of suspension. Like trying to run 2 showers in a house with low water pressure, neither shower works very well. The check valve keeps the 2nd shower turned off. Oh, and the second shower isn't hooked up to the drain pipe (your catch can), it's just dumping water where you don't want it. Not a perfect analogy, but...
The OEM pipe is certainly worth a try. I wouldn't expect it to help much, but maybe some.
Do you have a check valve in the fresh air line? I think it's important. Without one, some vapor is moving towards the can, but some is moving in the fresh air line, too, the airspeed of both is slowed, the vapor more likely to drop out of suspension. Like trying to run 2 showers in a house with low water pressure, neither shower works very well. The check valve keeps the 2nd shower turned off. Oh, and the second shower isn't hooked up to the drain pipe (your catch can), it's just dumping water where you don't want it. Not a perfect analogy, but...
03-21-2016, 04:00 AM
#197
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I wounder if not having the snorkel in the pipe a vacuum could be made by the air passing by the flat hole inside the K&N pipe.
Like blowing air passed the lip of a hose to pull fluid through it.
03-21-2016, 09:11 AM
#198
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Location: Mebane, NC
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RJ, I'm trying to understand your routing. Where are you feeding the catch can from, the manifold PCV valve check valve? It must be an old guy thing
As far as a good check valve look here, Intercooler Pipe Fabrication Not very expensive and they do work well.
As far as a good check valve look here, Intercooler Pipe Fabrication Not very expensive and they do work well.
03-21-2016, 10:09 AM
#199
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Nice setup RJ, your research will be vital to my installation! I started the install of the upgraded fuel lobe cam. I pulled the cam, tried to hold the timing but it jumped off the crankshaft! So, once I get back home I'll be pulling the front cover to reset timing....yay!
Catman, I'm not sure how well just the open hole forces air into the pcv. Sounds like the K&N tube is like my ZZP intake. Nothing protruding into the interior of the tube. What I was thinking was cut it off and put in a new tube. I would imagine it would be easier on the K&N, seeing as it's plastic. You could just JB weld in the proper tube.
Not sure how much you need to worry about the forced air though. Seeing as you haven't blocked off your intake pcv. You'll be getting fresh air pulled through via manifold vacuum.
I've got the design of my cans pretty much nailed down, just need to build them! Wish I could utilize someone's machine shop while I'm on the road. I hate being away from my tools.
Catman, I'm not sure how well just the open hole forces air into the pcv. Sounds like the K&N tube is like my ZZP intake. Nothing protruding into the interior of the tube. What I was thinking was cut it off and put in a new tube. I would imagine it would be easier on the K&N, seeing as it's plastic. You could just JB weld in the proper tube.
Not sure how much you need to worry about the forced air though. Seeing as you haven't blocked off your intake pcv. You'll be getting fresh air pulled through via manifold vacuum.
I've got the design of my cans pretty much nailed down, just need to build them! Wish I could utilize someone's machine shop while I'm on the road. I hate being away from my tools.