2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

Zzp lnf s256et kit on its way

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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:24 AM
  #11  
foolmoon_design's Avatar
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All the parts you listed. Mounts, etc. add stress to the tranny! Have fun with a boost controller, those are for cars without computers. Won't work for us.
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by foolmoon_design
All the parts you listed. Mounts, etc. add stress to the tranny! Have fun with a boost controller, those are for cars without computers. Won't work for us.
This made me laugh
Gotta love when people try claim knowledge and get shot down
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #13  
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I wasn't trying to shoot him down, just keeping him from spending money thats not needed. I think one of the last compatible boost controller cars was the mid 90's supra

Since a few of us have been on here for years, we can help with some power questions. Especially since some questions just keep getting asked, over and over again.

This past weekend my buddy Jason snapped an axle on his 'balt. Found out yesterday, that he welded the motor mount solid and filled it in with roofing butyl. He was able to stop engine movement, but the added stress transferred to his driveshaft, and snap.

Catch cans are another example. I had one for about a year, when we we're all freaking out about fouling the maf. It was bone dry, so I took it off. Some people still run a catch can, but its not an issue and doesn't come up much on the forum.

If your worried about DD, get a selectable tune. But honestly, its all in the foot control.
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 10:44 AM
  #14  
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Then why would zzp offer a pcm tune with either selectable or a manual boost controller its specifically said in the drop down option menu and i called zzp awhile back and asked them about it too
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #15  
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It is better to run a mbc in a big turbo setup. It helps keep the boost steady where the ecm control wont do so. Rotated mounts are absolutely necesary on s 5spd and aid keeping things intact not cause things to break
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #16  
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Thats why i trusted zzp with it and moon i dont take offense to anything anyone says im 21 and im here to gain knowledge and also do product reviews i love my hhr and the "attention" it brings on and off base but question if yall know is there any good tuners in the oklahoma/texas area id go to james hes amazing and has helped me before but kentucky is a little far
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #17  
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guys look at zzp's site. their mbc is a tune with a hi and low setting mapped to a knob, its a tune. A true mbc, is a valve that leaks pressure, and works much like a volume knob, with alot more than just 2 settings. I had one on my '87 300zx, it was mounted in the dash, and you could hear it sucking. turned all the way up, closed it off. a two position knob... is a switch, and everything can be done through tuning, even with turbo's that are in the 60,70,80,90 mm range. there are a few members running bigger turbos, and not one has a mbc, Atl your going bigger, adding a mbc? right now HAHN is installing a S20g on an hhr and no mention of mbc, HHRsouth went bigger turbo, no MBC. Rob is throwing parts like crazy no mbc there either. its just not needed in its current form of a two position switch. and the old style, will completely give your ecm a WTF moment, especially since we have computer controlled variable timing.

Also, your BOV doubles somewhat as a mbc, as you can adjust the valve and spring rate. your better off just adding a valve to a vac line, but again it will f'up the ecm, and make it think its losing vac.
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #18  
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our LNF kit, (and LSJ turbo kit, and 2.2/2.4 kit, and our grand prix 3800 kits,and LSx truck turbo kits....) ALL come with a manual boost controller.....i have no idea why you would think that they wont work on a computer controlled car???? that is just false information. they work VERY well.....

and to the O.P. good to see another HHR guy with the turbo upgrade kit! i've sold a few of them to HHR guys already :) i would stay around 375-400 on a daily driver car....and please, dont NLS into 3rd all the time, it WILL break!

The FWD cars that are turning the big numbers[12 sec. and lower] have lots of other parts that are beefed up to handle that much torque, and most are trailered to the track[thats why you see the front tow strap hook on the front-they are even towed to the starting line], and rarely, if ever driven on the street,
not to be a jerk, but Ryan drives his 9 sec cobalt to and from work allllll the time, our 10 sec LNF cobalt gets street driven for weeks on end, and driven to the track, we drive our 11 second auto cobalt to the track, and rent it out to customers to drive while we work on their stuff all the time. we use the manual boost controller to turn it down to a reasonable power level.

the front tow hook strap is on the car because many road coarses REQUIRE the car to have a tow hook on it just in case you break down out in the middle of the track a mile from the parking lot.
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #19  
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taken from our website:

Option 3: This determines the boost control of the kit, 375-400whp tune is a ZZP pcm with a manual boost controller, that turns the boost up or down with a knob and is (usually) mounted under the hood. This option requires you to either send in your PCM core first(preferred) or pay the refundable core charge. it does not have only 2 settings...it is a regular twist knob.....the trifecta based selectable tune is the one that is like a "on-off switch"
Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #20  
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Steve............ THANK YOU FOR REPLYING.

saves me a lot of time replying. i'm seriously sitting at my desk shaking my head.




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