Then took the shield to access to the pulley.

 

Then I disconnected the battery negative and positive.

 

Gear reset button is inside a small window under the wheel

 

 

Ready for leakdown testing now

 

Say what ?

 

that button allowed me to pull out the key after switched the gear from P to N.

 

You know you can put more than one pic in a post? Just drag and drop as many as you like onto the form. If you are going to be posting more than 1 or 2 pix you should resize them for the sake of those using cell phones.

It's an automatic, what difference does P or N make?

You might want to just start a new thread in the How-To library with your procedure.

 

I think 1 is at TDC. Intake and exhaust valves of 1 are closed. 1 and 4 are both at the top while 2 and 3 are at the bottom. 2's intake valves are closed. 2's exhaust valves are going to be opened or already opened a little bit. 3's intake valves are going to be closed. 3's exhaust valves are closed. 4's intake valves are going to be opened or already opened a little bit. 4's exhaust are going to be closed.

 

That seems correct. The only thing that surprises me is that #3 intake valves are open. At the bottom of the stroke, after intake, the valves need to be closed(or extremely near closed) so that compression can begin.

If they are still open, even a little, after BDC, the air-fuel mixture gets pushed back into the intake manifold.

You may want to verify that the timing is correct, it may be a tooth off.

So that means #1 intake is open at BDC also, when #3 is at TDC.

This supports the theory that the #3 intake valve(s) are burnt or otherwise not sealing.

And the oil didn't help much this time, suggesting maybe the problem is not the rings.