Single Cylinder Misfire - intake valve spring
#121
I found when 3 was at the top, 1's exhaust valves were already a little bit opened and going to be opened. If I made 1's exhaust valves were closed but not opened yet, 2's exhaust valves were still a little bit opened and going to be closed.
Anyway, in both cases, I did leakdown testing on 3. I could feel the air flow out from the hole that had the exhaust valves opened .I put the spark plugs back to the 1 and 2 holes just to stop he air flow, then I could feel the air come out from the tail pipeline.
Anyway, in both cases, I did leakdown testing on 3. I could feel the air flow out from the hole that had the exhaust valves opened .I put the spark plugs back to the 1 and 2 holes just to stop he air flow, then I could feel the air come out from the tail pipeline.
Sounds like air is leaking past #3 exhaust valves, entering the exhaust manifold, and some air going through the open exhaust valves in #1 or #2. Plugging the spark plug holes forced all the air out the tailpipe.
You'll need a valve job OR a new/rebuilt head OR a new/used/rebuilt engine.
I suspect your timing chain may be off a tooth. A new/rebuilt engine will have a new timing set. Any other option, you'll want to put a new timing set on. Either way, the timing issue will be fixed.
Since the oil helped your compression, I do also suspect ring/cylinder wall wear in at least #3. Probably best to get a new/used/rebuilt engine. Like I said before, it may not be more expensive than a head replacement.
#122
The exhaust valves seem to be doing as I would expect.
Sounds like air is leaking past #3 exhaust valves, entering the exhaust manifold, and some air going through the open exhaust valves in #1 or #2. Plugging the spark plug holes forced all the air out the tailpipe.
You'll need a valve job OR a new/rebuilt head OR a new/used/rebuilt engine.
I suspect your timing chain may be off a tooth. A new/rebuilt engine will have a new timing set. Any other option, you'll want to put a new timing set on. Either way, the timing issue will be fixed.
Since the oil helped your compression, I do also suspect ring/cylinder wall wear in at least #3. Probably best to get a new/used/rebuilt engine. Like I said before, it may not be more expensive than a head replacement.
Sounds like air is leaking past #3 exhaust valves, entering the exhaust manifold, and some air going through the open exhaust valves in #1 or #2. Plugging the spark plug holes forced all the air out the tailpipe.
You'll need a valve job OR a new/rebuilt head OR a new/used/rebuilt engine.
I suspect your timing chain may be off a tooth. A new/rebuilt engine will have a new timing set. Any other option, you'll want to put a new timing set on. Either way, the timing issue will be fixed.
Since the oil helped your compression, I do also suspect ring/cylinder wall wear in at least #3. Probably best to get a new/used/rebuilt engine. Like I said before, it may not be more expensive than a head replacement.
#123
One more thing I tried was using the borescope. I am unsure if I did anything wrong but after trying many times, I gave up. I couldn't find enough space to bend the semi rigid cable so I could get the correct angle to monitor the exhaust valves in the above.
#124
Thank you very very much, RJ_RS_SS_350. While I am looking for a reasonable place to replace the engine, do you think if it is a good idea to unplug the fuel injector electric connector for #3? One of my friends told me I could temporarily do so. He told me the fuel injector was closed by default. If the electric connector were disconnected, no fuel would be injected into the 3 and I could save my cat converter when I am still driving this car. I know that will definitely give me other CEL code, which I don't care that much. But wondering if I shall do so.
#125
I tried as my friend suggested. I disconnected both (spark plug coil and the fuel injector electric plug). The car is drivable but with more shakings. Will report here after more driving.
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