Single Cylinder Misfire - intake valve spring
Seafoam is a different product than Engine Restore:
RESTORE Engine Restorer & Lubricant is a high performance oil additive that increases compression in older high-mileage engines. The unique CSL formula fills in worn areas of the cylinder walls to reduce blow-by and RESTORE compression to near original levels. Restoring cylinder compression improves combustion to increase horsepower, reduce oil burning, maximize fuel mileage and RESTORE peak engine performance. In addition, it provides extreme pressure lubrication to help protect engine components from excessive wear. Compatible with conventional or synthetic oil.
Will it really help? You have nothing to loose at this point.
YouTube does have videos about it.
RESTORE Engine Restorer & Lubricant is a high performance oil additive that increases compression in older high-mileage engines. The unique CSL formula fills in worn areas of the cylinder walls to reduce blow-by and RESTORE compression to near original levels. Restoring cylinder compression improves combustion to increase horsepower, reduce oil burning, maximize fuel mileage and RESTORE peak engine performance. In addition, it provides extreme pressure lubrication to help protect engine components from excessive wear. Compatible with conventional or synthetic oil.
Will it really help? You have nothing to loose at this point.
YouTube does have videos about it.
Sorry for being quite a while for my updating. I have finally done the leakdown testing. A lot of tricky things: 1) taking out the driver side tire made me much easier to access the crankshaft pulley. I also took out the shield in order to reach the pulley bolt. 2) It took me quite a while to figure out how to put the gear to neutral and get the key out. There was a small square "window" under the drive wheel. You can pull the cover out and feel a reset button in it. I turned on my engine, put the gear to neutral, pushed that reset button and then was able to pull out my key. 3) I recognized the cylinder #1, #4 went to TDC together at the same time #2, #3 went down all the way. So it was different from my previous car which all of the 4 went to TDC together. I rotate the crankshaft till the #2 and #3 went to TDC before I started my leakdown testing.
Coming back to the result of the leakdown testing: I heard the air leakage noise when I was testing cylinder #3 while didn't or hear any percentage lost on the other 3 cylinders. I couldn't figure out where the air leakage noise was from after trying several times. Finally, I found the cold air out from the tail pipeline, not very strong, I couldn't hear the noise there but I could feel the air flow out from the pipe. I assume this mean the exhaust valve issue.
Any idea of an inexpensive repair? I mean without rebuilding or replacing the engine?
Coming back to the result of the leakdown testing: I heard the air leakage noise when I was testing cylinder #3 while didn't or hear any percentage lost on the other 3 cylinders. I couldn't figure out where the air leakage noise was from after trying several times. Finally, I found the cold air out from the tail pipeline, not very strong, I couldn't hear the noise there but I could feel the air flow out from the pipe. I assume this mean the exhaust valve issue.
Any idea of an inexpensive repair? I mean without rebuilding or replacing the engine?
Each cylinder is at true TDC at a different time. It sounds like you tested #2 and #3 from the same position?, which would give false readings. At TDC for #2(between compression and power), the exhaust valves might be open on #3(between exhaust and intake).
Not the easiest test to perform. If you're not perfect at TDC, the 100 PSI wants to push the piston down!
The firing order is 1-3-4-2
Not the easiest test to perform. If you're not perfect at TDC, the 100 PSI wants to push the piston down!
The firing order is 1-3-4-2
Each cylinder is at true TDC at a different time. It sounds like you tested #2 and #3 from the same position?, which would give false readings. At TDC for #2(between compression and power), the exhaust valves might be open on #3(between exhaust and intake).
Not the easiest test to perform. If you're not perfect at TDC, the 100 PSI wants to push the piston down!
The firing order is 1-3-4-2
Not the easiest test to perform. If you're not perfect at TDC, the 100 PSI wants to push the piston down!
The firing order is 1-3-4-2
thanks a lot.
Yeah, it was much lower on #3. Adding engine oil brought the compression from 120 to 150-170 psi while other 3 cylinders showed 210 psi. The leakdown testing I did was more about figuring out where the leakage was instead of which cylinder had the leakage. The percentage gauge is not that much useful to my case since I am pretty sure the #3 has an issue.
I redid the leakdown testing. I tried 4 times, each only based on my observation of #3 being on TDC (I was looking at the stick into the #2 hole before). Among the 4 times, when I tested #2, I observed air out from tailpipe three times and no leakage once (guess this was a false result?), while everytime #3 having the leakage from the tailpipe.
Sounds like an exhaust valve issue?
Sounds like an exhaust valve issue?


