is there any measurable increase in torque/hp with a cold air intake?
02-09-2015, 02:16 AM
#2
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Join Date: 06-30-2010
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When installing a performance intake etc, it's a good idea to disconnected the NEGATIVE battery cable for 30 minutes in order to "Baseline" the vehicle.
That will clear the old fuel trims stored in the PCM/ECM combo and send the vehicle into "Learn Down" mode. Once it's in that mode, drive it around and let it relearn your driving style with the new parts installed.
I run the GMPP Performance intakes instead of the K&N units, and based on "Butt Dyno" info only, you may gain 3-5 hp at most.
Split this off from a five year old "Dead Thread".
That will clear the old fuel trims stored in the PCM/ECM combo and send the vehicle into "Learn Down" mode. Once it's in that mode, drive it around and let it relearn your driving style with the new parts installed.
I run the GMPP Performance intakes instead of the K&N units, and based on "Butt Dyno" info only, you may gain 3-5 hp at most.
Split this off from a five year old "Dead Thread".
02-09-2015, 10:28 AM
#4
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Stock setup is a cold air intake so maybe more air flow with a K&N Direct replacement air filter, I have had one for over 4 years only noticed a little increase in fuel mileage
Last edited by Oldblue; 02-09-2015 at 12:07 PM.
02-09-2015, 10:35 PM
#5
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Join Date: 11-05-2011
Location: simi valley CA.
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I agree with old blue basically.
The basic design is already cold air, for the cost, if your not going to add any high performance add ons, you really wasting your money. Just make sure you keep the stock filter changed often so it is always clean.
The basic design is already cold air, for the cost, if your not going to add any high performance add ons, you really wasting your money. Just make sure you keep the stock filter changed often so it is always clean.
02-09-2015, 10:49 PM
#6
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They make more noise, probably a few more hp at WFO, but I would like to see comps on Torque on a real dyno.
Stock vs aftermarket.
I would bet one would notice a Torque dip down low w/aftermarket. Not ideal for street ride.
Stock vs aftermarket.
I would bet one would notice a Torque dip down low w/aftermarket. Not ideal for street ride.
02-10-2015, 12:43 AM
#7
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Excellent points sleeper, I can't recall or find any "before and after" dyno pull results here in the Performance vs. Stock intake vein.
The GMPP intake uses the OEM "Cold Air" induction location, so that's always been a big "plus" in my books. And yes they make more noise, especially coupled with a GMPP/Borla exhaust, but it's a nice kind of noise to my ears.
If the '06 I use as a daily driver had been in my name when it came to the performance exhaust, my wife's preference of a Magnaflow system would have been outvoted. But as much as I'd like that system to fall apart/fall off, it's still as good as new even after 200,000+ miles.
The big performance gains are to be had with a fairly simple equation. Performance Intake + Performance Exhaust + Trifecta Tune = Vroom!
The GMPP intake uses the OEM "Cold Air" induction location, so that's always been a big "plus" in my books. And yes they make more noise, especially coupled with a GMPP/Borla exhaust, but it's a nice kind of noise to my ears.
If the '06 I use as a daily driver had been in my name when it came to the performance exhaust, my wife's preference of a Magnaflow system would have been outvoted. But as much as I'd like that system to fall apart/fall off, it's still as good as new even after 200,000+ miles.
The big performance gains are to be had with a fairly simple equation. Performance Intake + Performance Exhaust + Trifecta Tune = Vroom!
02-10-2015, 10:39 PM
#8
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The gmpp air box I'd say is one the most visuably appealing, least the modded version I made.. (imo)
That said, GM chose to use steel to make the box. Which creates a 'heat sink' hot air box, unless one would do some insulating to prevent this..
You see K&N, Airaid + our OEM units have all used better materials to combat the heat sink dealio.
Our OEM mufflers flow very well as stock, & as does the OE air box, adding a Tune to this would be nice plus..
Louder noise does not always equate to more power..
That said, GM chose to use steel to make the box. Which creates a 'heat sink' hot air box, unless one would do some insulating to prevent this..
You see K&N, Airaid + our OEM units have all used better materials to combat the heat sink dealio.
Our OEM mufflers flow very well as stock, & as does the OE air box, adding a Tune to this would be nice plus..
Louder noise does not always equate to more power..
02-10-2015, 11:19 PM
#9
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Join Date: 11-05-2011
Location: simi valley CA.
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I agree sleeper the GMMP with out a dought is the best looking on the market.
But if he's not going to do any after market mods. I think he's just wasting his money
$300 bucks is a lot for a few hp. IMO
Tim
But if he's not going to do any after market mods. I think he's just wasting his money
$300 bucks is a lot for a few hp. IMO
Tim
02-11-2015, 12:25 AM
#10
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As sleeper pointed out, the GMPP airbox construction does make it a bit of a heat sink, but I've insulated mine with Dynamat to help reject any excess heat.
If memory serves, sleeper used Dynamat or something along those lines to insulate his GMPP 'box.
The intakes to avoid like the plague are the ones which pull in underhood air, I guess the best description is the "Cone filtered Ricer Special".
And loud definitely doesn't equal better, although try telling that to the owner of a f*rt canned Civic.
If memory serves, sleeper used Dynamat or something along those lines to insulate his GMPP 'box.
The intakes to avoid like the plague are the ones which pull in underhood air, I guess the best description is the "Cone filtered Ricer Special".
And loud definitely doesn't equal better, although try telling that to the owner of a f*rt canned Civic.