2.4L Engine Build
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-04-2010
Posts: 458
From: SE Wisconsin
Ok. So after the engine was complete and ready for installation, it took another 10hrs of working straight through and I finally started it up
I am thrilled to be finished!
Initially I just turned it over a few times without the injectors connected to ensure the oil pressure would be there. Then I connected them and fired it up. Chugged to life and purred like a lion
I just let it idle up to temp and made sure to burp all the air out of the system. I am definitely going to get some vids up when weather/time permits. The idle sound is really great. Mellow and throaty. I only had time to drive it home last night since the roads were very bad. The little feel I could get for my new clutch is it drives like normal. The old clutch setup was about 30lbs this set up is about 20lbs. I really like the new pedal pressure as it is feels stock(old Exedy clutch pedal pressure was more than twice stock).
I am not happy with my current intake setup, but that has to do for now. I originally had it routed to the drivers fog light area but I was taking in a lot of water/dirt. My next project is making a new intake. I will share that with you guys later...its going to be very kewl. But for now, hopefully I am done and I get to enjoy my ride. 3-500 miles of break in for the engine and clutch...then I am dropping the pulley and putting the hammer down
Funny it looks like the front is higher, but the springs need to settle again since it was off the wheels for 2 weeks and the rear had a lot more weight with the e brake on and the front tilted up.
I am thrilled to be finished!
Initially I just turned it over a few times without the injectors connected to ensure the oil pressure would be there. Then I connected them and fired it up. Chugged to life and purred like a lion
I just let it idle up to temp and made sure to burp all the air out of the system. I am definitely going to get some vids up when weather/time permits. The idle sound is really great. Mellow and throaty. I only had time to drive it home last night since the roads were very bad. The little feel I could get for my new clutch is it drives like normal. The old clutch setup was about 30lbs this set up is about 20lbs. I really like the new pedal pressure as it is feels stock(old Exedy clutch pedal pressure was more than twice stock).I am not happy with my current intake setup, but that has to do for now. I originally had it routed to the drivers fog light area but I was taking in a lot of water/dirt. My next project is making a new intake. I will share that with you guys later...its going to be very kewl. But for now, hopefully I am done and I get to enjoy my ride. 3-500 miles of break in for the engine and clutch...then I am dropping the pulley and putting the hammer down
Funny it looks like the front is higher, but the springs need to settle again since it was off the wheels for 2 weeks and the rear had a lot more weight with the e brake on and the front tilted up.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-04-2010
Posts: 458
From: SE Wisconsin
LOL! It is sad...very sad. I set it up temporarily though a few weeks back when I noticed water spots on the inside of the intake tubing. My original cai was great, but I didn't think it would take in water like that. My new idea is going to be super sweet...but that is another project a few weeks out...I need a break.
Senior Member
Joined: 10-19-2011
Posts: 1,553
From: N.Y.
awesome job
I have built and or modified quite a few small block and big block chevys some Naturally aspirated most supercharged or with Nitrous but never one of these 4 cylinder motors so the pictures and explanations are great.
I am a little late checkin but just curious the motor I built not too long ago Blown sbc approx 750hp I ended up putting in studs.
on a standard sbc the studs go into the water jacket and therefore will leak internally and externally if not put in properly.
do the 2.4 studs go into a water jacket or are they hopefully going into a blind hole that is sealed?
Once again great build I have run a small 144 b and m mini blower on a sbc before and now love the 6-71 I have been running for about 10 years
so this build makes me want to throw a blower on my 2.4 mainly for the extra weight for traction in the snow lol
just kidding, it just seems like the perfect sleeper.It would be awesome to see an import complete with the soup can exhaust pull up next to ya and watch there jaw drop as they tried to read the HHR letters on the back as you pulled away.
which blower and what other mods are there to put this blower on a stock 2.4 and in your opinion what is the smallest pulley and how much boost can a stock 2.4 handle 10 psi?
I have built and or modified quite a few small block and big block chevys some Naturally aspirated most supercharged or with Nitrous but never one of these 4 cylinder motors so the pictures and explanations are great.
I am a little late checkin but just curious the motor I built not too long ago Blown sbc approx 750hp I ended up putting in studs.
on a standard sbc the studs go into the water jacket and therefore will leak internally and externally if not put in properly.
do the 2.4 studs go into a water jacket or are they hopefully going into a blind hole that is sealed?
Once again great build I have run a small 144 b and m mini blower on a sbc before and now love the 6-71 I have been running for about 10 years
so this build makes me want to throw a blower on my 2.4 mainly for the extra weight for traction in the snow lol
just kidding, it just seems like the perfect sleeper.It would be awesome to see an import complete with the soup can exhaust pull up next to ya and watch there jaw drop as they tried to read the HHR letters on the back as you pulled away.
which blower and what other mods are there to put this blower on a stock 2.4 and in your opinion what is the smallest pulley and how much boost can a stock 2.4 handle 10 psi?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 03-04-2010
Posts: 458
From: SE Wisconsin
Thanks.
The headstuds are blind holes sealed w/headgasket. If anyone digs into this motor it is recommended to get ARP studs. They are only a little more than OE studs anyway.
The safe boost level is 8psi or around 225whp. I was already beyond that and did not want to find out the limitations as the common failure is the rods...and when they go they make a big mess.
Safe pulley is 3.1" with the M62 on the 2.4l. This is the blower off the Cobalt/Ion SC. I was running a 2.9" at 10-11psi, but went back to the 3.1 as I thought I was pushing it a bit too much. You can buy a bolt on kit from ZZP or part one together and find a tuner like trifecta. If you part a kit together you can have a blown/tuned HHR for less than $2000 for sure. American & Proud did a good job sourcing some parts for his future build. If you keep the boost moderate(6-8 psi) you would not have to upgrade anything else. Stock clutch can handle up to 230whp and the F23 is bullet proof. From what I hear the auto is doesn't start to have issues until you go beyond 250whp.
The headstuds are blind holes sealed w/headgasket. If anyone digs into this motor it is recommended to get ARP studs. They are only a little more than OE studs anyway.
The safe boost level is 8psi or around 225whp. I was already beyond that and did not want to find out the limitations as the common failure is the rods...and when they go they make a big mess.
Safe pulley is 3.1" with the M62 on the 2.4l. This is the blower off the Cobalt/Ion SC. I was running a 2.9" at 10-11psi, but went back to the 3.1 as I thought I was pushing it a bit too much. You can buy a bolt on kit from ZZP or part one together and find a tuner like trifecta. If you part a kit together you can have a blown/tuned HHR for less than $2000 for sure. American & Proud did a good job sourcing some parts for his future build. If you keep the boost moderate(6-8 psi) you would not have to upgrade anything else. Stock clutch can handle up to 230whp and the F23 is bullet proof. From what I hear the auto is doesn't start to have issues until you go beyond 250whp.
