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I added a 3” flexable aluminum dryer hose to the bottom driver side of the lower air box , it connects to a shop vac nozzle tucked under the radiator support plastic I also had this K&N FIPK setup for a long time, note it still takes cold air from the same hose thru the same hole in the inner fender on the passenger side.
how'd u manage to get the filter down there, I tried something similar but my hood struts were hitting the filter
There is zero advantage to putting the filter there. That draws warmer air from the engine bay. Probably not a good idea to take advice from someone that only gets 14 or 15 mpg.
There is zero advantage to putting the filter there. That draws warmer air from the engine bay. Probably not a good idea to take advice from someone that only gets 14 or 15 mpg.
woulda thought it'd pull cool air through the hole on the side where the stock hose goes
5 years ago and with a expensive 2 cent resistor to gain half a MPG.
Those "performance chips" are a resistor that alters the MAF signal to the ECM. Just a little smarter than those magnets than attach to the fuel line. Magic!
I can't find a final photo of my engine bay before I got rid of it. But here was the mock up test probably a month before i had all the piping made up for it. Dual intakes, one in the passenger wheel well and one infron of the rad. Ended up disconnecting the chip and just driving using "i" gear all the time unless steady highway.
In my past experience of being the person in charge of designing tuning Granatelli's MAFs and building devices that were of changing the output of a MAF anyway I wanted, it's rare that changing the output of a MAF will do much at low throttle openings when the ECM is adjusting the AFR based off the O2 sensor. THe best I've seen was picking up 50HP on a Mustang GT500 which at full throttle ran an AFR of 14.7 till 3500RPM and then instantly went to under 10-1, Adjusting the MAF output to bring that up to 12 picked up the 50HP, but that MAF curve was probably not something you'd want on a street car. The only way adjusting the MAF will help is if the factory curve is tuned for something other than power when it's not running on the O2. Also, you can add a resistor across the wires that sense the airflow in some GM MAFs, but all the ones I looked at were digital out and to adjust the output requires a microprocessor. The same goes for analog out MAFs, the right way to do it is with a microprocessor For the Granatelli Ford MAF adjuster, it had an A-D, 8 pin Microprocessor and a D-A and it checked the input and updated the output 1000 times per second or so. I could within the limits of the MAF, make any MAF look like any other MAF.
But other than increasing the MAF diameter and possibly increasing the airflow, adjusting the top end range of the MAF is only worth something if it helps, and the odds that it will help, hurt or do nothing are near equal. In my experience.
In simple terms, I tried those setups, and now I just installed a drop in K&N air filter , very lightly oiled, only on the outside of the element. I still get up to highway speeds quickly and get 32 to 33 mph on long hauls to Florida or Cape Cod at traffic flow speeds ( sometimes exceeding 90 mph) the throttle body only allows so much air through it so even an open air filter won’t do much for air flow.
I can't find a final photo of my engine bay before I got rid of it. But here was the mock up test probably a month before i had all the piping made up for it. Dual intakes, one in the passenger wheel well and one infron of the rad. Ended up disconnecting the chip and just driving using "i" gear all the time unless steady highway.
You realize there's only so much air that engine can pump.
06-01-2023, 06:46 PM
