The FM Antenna is built into the back glass, The roof antenna is for xm/onstar
I have horrible reception in my bu but that is due to the tint more than likely

 

i do not have onstar/xm it was a deleted option on mine

 

If we are talking HHR here, the front antenna (fishing pole) is amplified, note the wire windings on it. This is the HHR antenna for am & fm. My fm reception is pretty good & I have a stubby as well.. I don't mess with am..

 

As a General Class Amateur Radio operator (KF7BSF) antennas are something I have some knowledge of, so I will attempt to give a short lesson here.

1st in response to SSGuy.

If you are using the wire windings as an indicator of amplification, this is incorrect. The windings you see are used to compensate to the length required to match the frequency of the radio signal. While a receiving antenna is less critical than a transmitting antenna, there is still a correlation between the radio frequency and the appropriate antenna length. Any short antenna is a compromise. Since the approximate 1/4 wave length antenna (the ideal length) for am reception would be just shy of 300ft long, you can see where a even an old style 6ft extendable antenna is a big compromise, Fortunately AM and FM stations transmit with enough power to allow us to make compromises effectively.

As frequency increases, the required antenna length decreases. So effective am antennas are longer than fm antennas, are longer than cell phone antennas, are longer than GPS antennas. However in all these cases you will usually find that the "required" length is either reduced to a specific fraction of the actual size required and/or part of the wire length is coiled around the supporting mast to compensate. A close look at you stubby should reveal some type of "coil" incorporated in it. You will also not (if you read the specs) that all these stubby antennas have a reduced performance over the stock antenna.

2nd Different antenna types

With automobiles there are 2 major types of antenna designs. By far, the most common is the "vertical" antenna consisting of a mast. Though the description refers to an antenna which is perpendicular to the mounting surface, these work well at varying angles. The key point with a vertical antenna is that it represents only half the antenna. The other half is the car. This is less an issue for reception than transmission, but having both "halves" does effect the efficiency of even a receiving antenna.

The second antenna type found on car is a modification of a dipole antenna, "di" meaning 2 parts and in our case indicating that the car itself is not being used as the other half. This antenna type is often employ in the antennas which are embedded within the window glass. If you examine these antennas closely you will note that most contain 2 symmetrical wires within the glass.

3rd issue... Proximity Effect

Anything which can block a signal to your antenna falls into the category of proximity effect. Window tint with any metal content over a window containing an antenna will reduced its effectiveness (if not render it useless). If you must have a rear window tint on an imbedded antenna, then install another antenna if you want to use your radio.

Likewise a roof rack (especially a loaded one) can reduce the efficiency of a vertical antenna. If you have a rack and use it on trips, then take the cool stubby antenna you bought and replace it with the longer "fishing pole".

Closing Remarks.

Thank god for CD players and XM radio. Older Timers have all had the experience of driving cross country with only a radio. FM stations quickly become unreliable on such trips because they are in a frequency requiring line of sight signals. AM will still work pretty well cross country since the frequency of operation is within a range that is very responsive to reflection off the ionosphere. If you're a radio nut and FM is your choice the you'll need a "geeky" long antenna to leverage your reception. We have all seen these antennas on cars with any 2 way-radio equipment, especial where distance must be covered.

If you are an Amateur Radio Operator or CB Operator, then the transmitting part of the equation makes the items discussed above even more critical. If you are thinking about such devices in your car/truck, then do some online research. An efficient antenna will make these radio activities far more enjoyable.

I am all for "cool" antennas. I plan to put a "stubby" on my HHR. But cool isn't always or just in the looks department and sometimes efficiency is a cool thing too. Sometimes cool can be finding a new, unique way to take advantage of the laws of physics.

Of course "cool" is different when you have a "retro" like the HHR. Some of the period devices can make great hiding places for efficient yet uncool things like antennas. I've been thinking of building an EF-style antenna (for Ham radio) inside a fiberglass replica of the old external/window mounted air coolers. That would be cool! (is there a pun there?)

Gene aka Rubics Cube and KF7BSF
Gene

 

Thank You Gene, I stand corrected.. I did not know that..

Lots of good info also...

 

ditto

 

The first gen. Equinox has a shorter antena and it fits just fine on the HHR.

 

Where did you get yours at sleeper? Anyone else with a short antenna can chime in too. I know eBay has them, but I try to avoid eBay when it's possible.

 

I got mine from Ebay, but I chose the extendable CF stubby. So it goes from the short 5" to 10" or 11" easily. It's worked fine for me and when I start to lose FM reception, I just open the sunroof, reach up and extend my stubby! (yes re-reading this makes me smirk )

Later
Allex

 

Andy- ebay also...