Painted CGS & Coil/Fuse Covers
How much you use depends on your painting expertise. I'm pretty new at it and had to redo the fuse cover, so I used one can for the covers....but they are not standard size cans, they are the smaller ones (5oz). It took more paint to cover the black than it did the silver on the CGS. I would suggest to anyone doing this with rattle can paint prime the parts first and then paint them with the GM paint.
In case I didn't mention it in previous posts, I did use some stuff on the plastic parts that Mike from SoCalHHR's mentioned called Bulldog Adhesion promoter. We'll see how things hold up and if the don't I'll try other things. The other people who have done this haven't mentioned any problems though, so hopefully I'm good to go.
Now that you mention it thedonn007, we did join the same day and even have the same color.
Wonder if we bought our HHR's the same day? I know another member on here and I did and he lives here in Colorado too. HaysHotRod bought his SOM HHR the same day I did, only at a different dealer here in town. 
I have alot of posts as I scour the boards every day and search for answers on google or look for other posts that are related. I must admit though that some of them are from the 4/5 word posts in the dungeon...but not all that many and I don't do that anymore anyway. I try to make each post now something relative to the HHR.
Now that you mention it thedonn007, we did join the same day and even have the same color.
Wonder if we bought our HHR's the same day? I know another member on here and I did and he lives here in Colorado too. HaysHotRod bought his SOM HHR the same day I did, only at a different dealer here in town. I have alot of posts as I scour the boards every day and search for answers on google or look for other posts that are related. I must admit though that some of them are from the 4/5 word posts in the dungeon...but not all that many and I don't do that anymore anyway. I try to make each post now something relative to the HHR.
so best thing to do....
1. wash the hell out of the plastic
2. sand the plastic
3. apply the adhesion stuff
4. paint it
5. let it dry then light/wet sand it again
6. re-paint it
7. and would you put some sort of clear coat thing to help protect the paint or just leave it as is?
1. wash the hell out of the plastic
2. sand the plastic
3. apply the adhesion stuff
4. paint it
5. let it dry then light/wet sand it again
6. re-paint it
7. and would you put some sort of clear coat thing to help protect the paint or just leave it as is?
Originally Posted by EL_REY
so best thing to do....
1. wash the hell out of the plastic
2. sand the plastic
3. apply the adhesion stuff
4. paint it
5. let it dry then light/wet sand it again
6. re-paint it
7. and would you put some sort of clear coat thing to help protect the paint or just leave it as is?
1. wash the hell out of the plastic
2. sand the plastic
3. apply the adhesion stuff
4. paint it
5. let it dry then light/wet sand it again
6. re-paint it
7. and would you put some sort of clear coat thing to help protect the paint or just leave it as is?
.IMO, in painting PLASTIC parts... just do #1, #3, #4, and #6 as listed above. Sanding (IMO) isn't really needed with plastic, that's what the ahesion promotor is for (assuming the piece is CLEAN and free of oils). Not to mention plastic pieces are typcially a LOT softer than metals, therefore 'gouging' can be done very easily. Doing #7 is strictly a matter of preference. Also note that Krylon (plastic paint) has some 'flexors' and 'promotors' in the paint. This allows the paint to stick to plastic and not chip or flake as easily if/when the plastic flex's (e.g. taking fuse covers on and off).
As for painting the CGS (metal object with powdercoat)... scuffing the surface (sanding) is HIGHLY recommended due to the powdercoat being so smooth. Slight surface abrasioin will PROMOTE paint adherence ... and, although not required, adhesion promoter wouldn't hurt.
As with any paint, apply in light coats and allow proper dry time. Multiple coats (2-5) will be sufficient for coverage/durablilty.
Lastly (whew--) ... I 'thought' I remembered "House of Kolor" had an orange that matched the HHR in a rattle can (that can be purchased at Walmart). At least that's what I remember
Originally Posted by SCOOT
Wow! That's a LOT of work to paint a few underhood parts that will (eventually) get full of road grime... but- of course it's all in the name of 'good looks'
... and "mod-master" Deb, it looks good as usual
.
IMO, in painting PLASTIC parts... just do #1, #3, #4, and #6 as listed above. Sanding (IMO) isn't really needed with plastic, that's what the ahesion promotor is for (assuming the piece is CLEAN and free of oils). Not to mention plastic pieces are typcially a LOT softer than metals, therefore 'gouging' can be done very easily. Doing #7 is strictly a matter of preference. Also note that Krylon (plastic paint) has some 'flexors' and 'promotors' in the paint. This allows the paint to stick to plastic and not chip or flake as easily if/when the plastic flex's (e.g. taking fuse covers on and off).
As for painting the CGS (metal object with powdercoat)... scuffing the surface (sanding) is HIGHLY recommended due to the powdercoat being so smooth. Slight surface abrasioin will PROMOTE paint adherence ... and, although not required, adhesion promoter wouldn't hurt.
As with any paint, apply in light coats and allow proper dry time. Multiple coats (2-5) will be sufficient for coverage/durablilty.
Lastly (whew--) ... I 'thought' I remembered "House of Kolor" had an orange that matched the HHR in a rattle can (that can be purchased at Walmart). At least that's what I remember
.IMO, in painting PLASTIC parts... just do #1, #3, #4, and #6 as listed above. Sanding (IMO) isn't really needed with plastic, that's what the ahesion promotor is for (assuming the piece is CLEAN and free of oils). Not to mention plastic pieces are typcially a LOT softer than metals, therefore 'gouging' can be done very easily. Doing #7 is strictly a matter of preference. Also note that Krylon (plastic paint) has some 'flexors' and 'promotors' in the paint. This allows the paint to stick to plastic and not chip or flake as easily if/when the plastic flex's (e.g. taking fuse covers on and off).
As for painting the CGS (metal object with powdercoat)... scuffing the surface (sanding) is HIGHLY recommended due to the powdercoat being so smooth. Slight surface abrasioin will PROMOTE paint adherence ... and, although not required, adhesion promoter wouldn't hurt.
As with any paint, apply in light coats and allow proper dry time. Multiple coats (2-5) will be sufficient for coverage/durablilty.
Lastly (whew--) ... I 'thought' I remembered "House of Kolor" had an orange that matched the HHR in a rattle can (that can be purchased at Walmart). At least that's what I remember

house of kolor is very good paint.... i might go look for some when i get out of work, and see if its at walmart
Originally Posted by EL_REY
so best thing to do....
1. wash the hell out of the plastic
2. sand the plastic
3. apply the adhesion stuff
4. paint it
5. let it dry then light/wet sand it again
6. re-paint it
7. and would you put some sort of clear coat thing to help protect the paint or just leave it as is?
1. wash the hell out of the plastic
2. sand the plastic
3. apply the adhesion stuff
4. paint it
5. let it dry then light/wet sand it again
6. re-paint it
7. and would you put some sort of clear coat thing to help protect the paint or just leave it as is?
It's all a matter in what you are comfortable doing yourself.
anytime i've ever painted plastic i never bothered to sand. (check my cardomain on my firebird)
i just
1) wash thoroughly with detergent to clean it.
2) dry
3) wash with alcohol
4) dry
5) tak cloth
6) paint first coat lightly
7) let dry completely
8) repeat 6 & 7 for 2-3 more coats until u have the depth u want
the only thing i do differently is on black. depending on the shade u are painting, primer the black grey, then paint.
i just
1) wash thoroughly with detergent to clean it.
2) dry
3) wash with alcohol
4) dry
5) tak cloth
6) paint first coat lightly
7) let dry completely
8) repeat 6 & 7 for 2-3 more coats until u have the depth u want
the only thing i do differently is on black. depending on the shade u are painting, primer the black grey, then paint.
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Nov 18, 2010 10:11 PM



