Started removing rust from the bottom of the doors, used a wire wheel to "grind" it off tonight. Tomorrow I will apply rust remover gel and get it into the door as well so it will fight it from both sides of the metal, will scrub it with the wire wheel as it goes and rinse clean with water, then Ill use brake cleaner to "dry" any moisture after blowing it out with air. Once dried it will get primer and paint. I may use undercoating inside the doors to prevent water from rusting it out from the inside. Talked to my buddy who is a bodyman/painter, since there is some clear peel... May try to get it repainted later down the road. But for now, just correcting a little rust issue before it gets worst. (** some pics didn't load to computer hopefully get this fixed soon for the before aft pics.**)

The Tool

Driver front after

drivers rear before

Drivers front before

Rear hatch

Passenger front after

passenger rear after

 

Eastwood has a good product for rust control

https://garage.eastwood.com/diy-how-...apsulator-faq/

 

Thank you, Ive also heard of POR15 as well.

 

Sounds like the stuff I got from the Depot, called Krud Kutter.

 

That may work, but can you use it like a primer

 

Regular primer & paint are only like a band-aid on a wound. If you want to get serious, the link previously provided is what ya want to be looking for. .

I have used Por-15 & had great success with it. It is best to top coat it with a regular paint. The latest stuff is the rust encapsulation. Which should be more technically advanced.

 

It was this rust converter

 

Yep, just a band aid for now to keep the rust at bay, Talking to my buddy about getting a proper paint job done in the future. He painted 2 of my show cars Ive built. A rusty 61 Baja ground up build and a 97 Ram. Youd never knew the rams wheel wells were long gone as well as the rockers and lower doors. He's been doing it for over 35 years now.

 

This is what Im using to remove the rust to bare metal., then sand it a bit to smooth and hopefully get rid of any pitting where possible without too much damage. Apparently the brand I used to get is obsolete but this is the same stuff.

 

I would use the rust converter on the inside of the door seams.
The Eastwood product I believe has a flex tube with it to reach into areas, but the area has to be cleaned and prepped before using the encapsulator.
If you watch Iron Trap Garage on You Tube, Matt (who works for Eastwood), has used this product lately on a 39 Ford he's fixing.
Rust dissolver is not a rust converter.
A converter drys to a hard film so it can be painted over it.
Here's some stuff from Home Depot that is a primer also.