anyone used peel and seal?
10-24-2012, 03:23 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-20-2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 844
I did the inside of my astrovan before installing the custom interior. Works best if a little warm . In the winter I'll hold the piece of Peel & seal in front of the space heater to warm it up...john
and they make it here in Coshocton at Mineral Fiber Co.
and they make it here in Coshocton at Mineral Fiber Co.
10-29-2012, 04:41 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-20-2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 844
Not the stuff I use ! I've had real good luck with it. Around here it's like a heavy duty duct tape. john
10-29-2012, 10:56 AM
#5
Member
Join Date: 09-22-2007
Location: USA
Posts: 86
There are two different kinds the home improvement places sell. Folks usually refer to both as peel and seal. People should stay away from the tar based one labeled as peel and seal. It can seep out when very hot and ruin interiors. The backing isn't the best and it generally comes off over time. It's also known to crack in the winter. It's fine on the roof of the house where oozing just helps the seal better and it doesn't have to rely on the backing to defeat gravity. Here is that stuff. http://www.lowes.com/pd_154017-81326...ductId=1018733 A lot of the products like dynomat are made by the same manufacturers with just a better backing, adhesive and thicker density with some other materials in the mix for desnsity.
The stuff that doesn't stink is butyl. Here is the home improvement version usually by the weatherstripping instead of the roofing stuff.http://www.cofair.com/roof.aspx Again made by the same place that makes the car audio kind, it just may be thicker and so on to their specs, then of coarse you have to pay for their brand being printed on the foil.
I found it cheaper to get butyl fatmat off of ebay when the sq footage was factored in. Ended up doing everything I could reach inside of the back gate, maybe 25%. 50% coverage on the surface facing the front. Maybe 50% of the inside of the exterior. 100% of the license plate and the body under the plate. About 50% coverage on the front and rear roof over the seats. About 50% on the front doors and what I could reach inside. Probably 50% on outer shell and 25% on the inside of the part that faces the occupants. Then 100% on the floor under the spare tire and rear wheel wells. That was 50 sq ft, plus I did 50% exterior/25% interior of the doors and 50% of the roof of my ranger.
I have another roll and want to do the roof over the cargo area then the floor in the cabin and the rear doors. Just got tired of pulling panels and putting the stuff in. I also forgot to stuff the rear gate with Polyfil when I had the cover off. I did put mat on the back side of the panels, probably 25% coverage. Just here and there in the open spots to give mass to the weakest areas. Then thin strips where they meet to keep them from rattling.
I actually over did it. Could have focused more on the center of every large surface and probably gotten by with 25% coverage just to stop resonation. Price so far was less than 100 factoring in I only used one of the rolls. 100% coverage is not necessary if you use good mat. I have an 18" with 1800 real rms watts going to it. No rattles that I can hear. I do still have drone from my exhaust because I need to get the rear roof and doors done and get some insulation on the floor. My muffler droning actually became worse because the whole car is not absorbing the frequency. It's being amplified by the rear roof/occupant floors and doesn't transfer into the rest of the car to tone it down like it used to.
The stuff that doesn't stink is butyl. Here is the home improvement version usually by the weatherstripping instead of the roofing stuff.http://www.cofair.com/roof.aspx Again made by the same place that makes the car audio kind, it just may be thicker and so on to their specs, then of coarse you have to pay for their brand being printed on the foil.
I found it cheaper to get butyl fatmat off of ebay when the sq footage was factored in. Ended up doing everything I could reach inside of the back gate, maybe 25%. 50% coverage on the surface facing the front. Maybe 50% of the inside of the exterior. 100% of the license plate and the body under the plate. About 50% coverage on the front and rear roof over the seats. About 50% on the front doors and what I could reach inside. Probably 50% on outer shell and 25% on the inside of the part that faces the occupants. Then 100% on the floor under the spare tire and rear wheel wells. That was 50 sq ft, plus I did 50% exterior/25% interior of the doors and 50% of the roof of my ranger.
I have another roll and want to do the roof over the cargo area then the floor in the cabin and the rear doors. Just got tired of pulling panels and putting the stuff in. I also forgot to stuff the rear gate with Polyfil when I had the cover off. I did put mat on the back side of the panels, probably 25% coverage. Just here and there in the open spots to give mass to the weakest areas. Then thin strips where they meet to keep them from rattling.
I actually over did it. Could have focused more on the center of every large surface and probably gotten by with 25% coverage just to stop resonation. Price so far was less than 100 factoring in I only used one of the rolls. 100% coverage is not necessary if you use good mat. I have an 18" with 1800 real rms watts going to it. No rattles that I can hear. I do still have drone from my exhaust because I need to get the rear roof and doors done and get some insulation on the floor. My muffler droning actually became worse because the whole car is not absorbing the frequency. It's being amplified by the rear roof/occupant floors and doesn't transfer into the rest of the car to tone it down like it used to.
11-01-2012, 06:03 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-20-2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 210
If you want no more better than factory deadner, sure. You won't really notice much of a difference with that stuff unless you use layer upon layer. Second Skin, Audio Technix, even KnuKonceptz have some good deadner if your looking for REAL deadner.
11-01-2012, 07:39 PM
#8
Factory deadener is about half the thickness of peel and seal
11-01-2012, 09:29 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-20-2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 210
11-01-2012, 10:30 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: 10-06-2011
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,150
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