Thanks for the info and link Bigpat. How hard was it removing the door panels?

 

Door panels are easy. Got 3 hex head screws(two in door handle and one where you open the door handle) and a small pop clip thing where the door panel closes into the door jam. It's a tiny circle, push the center inwards first and it'll pop out a ton easier. Then pull up on door and wedge your fingers inside panel and slide them downward and pull hard and the tabs will pop out all around the edge of the panel. Sorry for the book but not too hard.

 

Don't want to be "that guy" but I've never seen zip ties holding a speaker in before.

Why didn't you screw them in? And why isn't there any insulation between the metal speaker basket and plastic speaker mount?

Rub, Rub, vibrate..is all I am thinking.

 

Rednecks get the job done. Zip ties are great, durable and tight. No rub plus they sit almost flush. That factory foam wouldn't let the speakers mount flush. I wanted to use the factory mounts cause they fit really well and could use all factory hardware.

 

The speakers need to have a separation between the mounting surface and the basket . That will stop the rattles and buzzes . Like foam or dynamat type of materials . This will also help the speaker perform to its potential .Screws will keep the speaker from being free air . For an IB (infinite baffle) configuration to work , air leaks at the basket will kill your mid bass response . That is why there is a gasket and screws with your new speakers , use it .
I don't want to be "that guy or girl" either , but zip ties would not be our first option .
Make an adapter ,3/4 inch birch will work just fine in the factory location . Plenty of room between the door card and sheet metal .

 

To each his own "you guys" was just an option not everyone is gonna fabricate out of mdf wood and has to have an award winning sound. My stocks went out I replaced with cheap and now I hear. Just a cheap easy fix.

 

No offense to anyone, there is always more than one way to do something.

Just weird how I read posts that ever since someone changed out their stock speakers they lost bass response.

MsBecky posted up a proper way to install speakers to prevent this.

Problem addressed and problem solved.

It only takes a little more time an effort go the extra mile to do something better. If it takes 30 minutes to do it one way, and an hour to do it better it's a drop in the bucket compared to the hours of enjoyment you will have.

This applies to more then just speaker installs btw.

 

When we both said " not wanting to be that guy " allow me to explain .
On ever forum , there is always "that guy or girl" that knows everything , in turn everybody else is wrong .
This is not the case on this forum and by no way will the members allow it .
The mid bass in Ms. Becky's HHR scored 18 out of 20 in Huntsville at the finals/regional event . The only way this happened was all install prep before we bolted the mid bass drivers to the baffles .
If you want to wake up those new speakers , put some dampening material around the area that they are mounted to . Homer Depot sells 2 x 2 foot squares of birch plywood (3/8 thru 3/4 inches ) for 10.00 dollars . Use the factory mount as a template and make some . Your door speakers will give you low end response and in turn play LOUDER .

Greg

 

And with that. I appreciate your advice. But please. Do not continue the animosity I am sensing may be there. Your opinions are both very valuable. Thank you.

 

My question was still not answered though..

Is there a way I can check for loose connections on the back of the H/U?