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Various HHR Sub Installs...

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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 09:08 PM
  #101  
stick's Avatar
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Joined: 07-26-2007
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From: Pekin, Illinois
Here is the sub box I just finished. Not a pro job mind you, but it will do the job.

The top

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The bottom

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Here is the amp that will power the three P2s

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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 05:36 PM
  #102  
GDZHHR's Avatar
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Joined: 04-30-2006
Posts: 9,149
From: Maryland Heights, MO
Originally Posted by GDZHHR
Gotta have one of my amps replaced.

The Kicker shot craps; keeps cutting out. Thankfully it has about a month left in the warranty. Gonna have an extra battery added at the same time so my headlight quit dimming at night.

BTW, Navyflyer, finally got that new box of mine to thump. When they were checking out the amp, they re-tuned everything for the new box. Sounds great now. Got another car-shaker!
Well the new amp works fine and the re-tune of the system has the windows shakin' again.

The added battery seems to be helping with the headlights dimming too. Very clean install. Nice plus-still got my spare tire!



Old Oct 5, 2007 | 09:03 PM
  #103  
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Joined: 02-23-2006
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From: Oklahoma
I'm glad they got it fixed.
Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:50 PM
  #104  
SIRESMERPH's Avatar
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Joined: 09-07-2007
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From: RIO GRANDE VALLEY, TX
just like Borat says...THAT'S NICE
Old Dec 28, 2007 | 08:19 AM
  #105  
PhoS's Avatar
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Joined: 05-21-2007
Posts: 175
From: Space
Navyflyer11 , still waiting to see the pics of what you've got going on under that box.

Originally Posted by Navyflyer11
Yes, the spare is still there. I get pics of the underside of the box tomorrow. not much to see though.

Ideally I want to install sink my sub(lol) into the rear compartment floor, keep the spare, and mount the amp on the storage lid above the tire. I will most likely be using a kicker CVT shallow mount 12 to save space and a 400w kicker amp. Should be plenty to rattle some body panels. Would be nice to have the space as I tend to use it quite often.

Slim!


Or I could be really lazy and just get the kicker CVT box/sub combo and not deal with creating a new floor panel. But I like the idea of the stuff being hidden for the most part. Putting the storage lid in the upper position is not an option for me.

Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:04 PM
  #106  
sirrocket1975's Avatar
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Joined: 04-19-2007
Posts: 23
From: KS
Originally Posted by hnewagn


JL 8w3v2 sub with new grill



New sub box



Amp rack with HNEWAGN logo
Your system looks very stock That is about what I am thinking of doing as soon as I can get the money to have it done. Curses being a poor boy with expensive tastes. But I do have one question why didn't you use a bigger speaker and or a bigger shallowmount sub?
Old Jan 3, 2008 | 10:56 AM
  #107  
Lee3333's Avatar
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Joined: 12-18-2005
Posts: 1,791
From: Middle Village, NY




Here is how I did it. Plenty of cooling for the amps, they are out of the way for storage, look good at car shows, but hard to see through the tinted back windows. Stained plywood was mounted to plastic panal behind seat, which made it easy to attach amps, wire hold downs, fuse and distribution boxees, etc. Sub is Kenwood 10 inch mounted in enlarged stock location, with 3/4 ply behind panal as backing and for secure mount. Entire cavity is lined with Dynamat, and foam is used to reduce airspace. Bass is pretty good. For added sound, tube with matching speaker can easily be added with banana jacks and speaker plug mounted on side. Modified bungee cord with just one hook on each side hold securely. Amps-Blaupunk 400 watt mono sub, and old Alpine 160 4 channel (needs to be replaced with ?). Four Rockford Fosgate 6 3/4 in doors, stock tweeters, and Pioneer DEH-P9800BT head complete the system.

Four gauge monster cable for power and ground each to a distribution box, then 8 gauge to amps. 14 gauge speaker wires go to harness in rear where old amp was. Left slack so each seat can still fold down. Ground is to large bolt under storage compartments. Still searching for nice sub grill.
Old Jan 3, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #108  
stick's Avatar
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Joined: 07-26-2007
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From: Pekin, Illinois
All that and storage too

Seriously though, it looks good and you still have room left over. Did you have to use the plywood on the seat backs though or could you have just screwed the amps to the seats?
Old Jan 3, 2008 | 08:42 PM
  #109  
Lee3333's Avatar
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Joined: 12-18-2005
Posts: 1,791
From: Middle Village, NY
The plywood was actually very easy to install. The plastic seat back hooks on, and 2 small screws are used just to keep it locked in place. Remove them and the seat back lifts out. I drilled holes in the plastic and screwed the wood in from behind. The plywood makes a perfect base to attach all of the stereo components. Otherwise, screwing into the plastic would not have been as sturdy a mount for the subs. Plus, the wood insulates the plastic seat backs from the heat. And it only adds a little thickness.
Old Jan 4, 2008 | 12:12 PM
  #110  
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Joined: 01-04-2008
Posts: 17
From: Quebec Canada
Add power to stock sound system

The stock sound system needs more power. Suggested solutions to increase it w a good price/quality.



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