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Where to patch into audio for subwoofer? (LS w/no sub)

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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 10:58 AM
  #11  
prod's Avatar
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From: Toronto ON Canada
Well thats not too bad, at least it stays on with the retained ACC power.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:50 AM
  #12  
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Photos!

I installed a self-powered sub behind the driver's seat. Yeah, I know some of you demand 5,000 watts fo clean bass... but for me, I just wanted some fill where the stock LS system falls off. These mini tubes do just the trick



It uses a wiring harness that is easily unplugged, if I need the extra legroom for a passenger.

Here is an overhead shot. The unit is clean & compact.



Thanks for lookin'
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #13  
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Tapping into the fuse block for power to the amp is a bad idea. You're better off running cable back to the battery with fuses on the ground and positive wires.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:07 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by hhrcrafty
Tapping into the fuse block for power to the amp is a bad idea. You're better off running cable back to the battery with fuses on the ground and positive wires.
Why?

I can see that holding true for large amps that draw lots of power, but the wire going to my amp is like a 18-20 gauge wire.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by wingfeather
Why?

I can see that holding true for large amps that draw lots of power, but the wire going to my amp is like a 18-20 gauge wire.
Because Pioneer says so, and so do I

If you read the instructions, Pioneer specifies hooking it up directly to the battery with 30 amp fuses in both the negative and positive wires. The amp itself has a 25 amp fuse to protect the internal power supply. I can't remember the amp rating of the radio fuse, but I'm pretty sure it's not that high. Especially when you factor in the draw from the stock system AND the max draw rating of 15 amps on the amplifier.

I think you'll find that the thump goes away when you wire it properly and the amp will last longer. I would also step up to a 12-14 gauge wire for power and ground, too.
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