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Covered before, but I'm going to throw it out there as I haven't found a solution yet. A few weeks ago I got those warning lights on the dash (2010 Panel LT). Took it to the shop, ran the diagnostic and showed a faulty front left hub. Ok, no problem. Replaced hub, backed out.. same fault came back. Put it back on the rack, looked at the wire and sure enough, the wire was broken inside the loom. Rats.. hunted down another sensor wire (Jegs, of all places, had them), replaced that (and, what a pain to get to the inside connector), took it back to my shop for them to clear the code and they couldn't clear it. It's still showing a hard code for the front left ABS sensor. Now, while the car was still on the rack, the sensor was checked and it was fine. The plug side at the ABS module also tested fine. So we figured replace that intermediate wire from the wheel to the harness, but that apparently didn't work. I just tried the 'remove the 50A fuse at the battery' trick for 15 minutes - that didn't work. I'm stumped.
A. The ABS light will go out on its own if fixed
B. The 50A fuse by the batter does not do the same as disconnecting the negative cable. That fuse powers the BCM.
C. What does "hard code" mean to you? If the light is not on it means nothing.
D. ABS codes can only be read when the ABS light is on.
When the shop ran the code the second time - light still on - he couldn't clear it and didn't have time to dig into it deeper. He called it a 'hard code'. I personally don't know the difference. The code is still showing a left hub ABS sensor error. So.. hence the question. And ok on the fuse/battery terminal.
If you knew the full code it would be helpful; C0035 00 means the circuit is bad 0f means erratic signal 18 means the amplitude is too low.
The wheel speed sensor produces an AC signal.
There can be a C0035 18 until all 4 wheels turn, when a new hub is installed. It runs when "at least 2 other wheel speeds are not 0"
Make sure your battery voltage is over 10V.
If both wires are good you got a bad hub out of the box.
I thought you said the wires were checked for continuity.
They were, from the plug at the wheel to the ABS module (having temporarily patched the broken intermediate wire which looked like it had been chewed on by rodents in the wheel well). That test showed nothing amiss. I didn't want a patched wire, so I sourced a replacement. I don't think we tested the actual hub though.. that will be brought up first when I'm back at the shop.
