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Best rotors for 06 HHR?

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Old Oct 3, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #21  
Tony_SS's Avatar
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Well I got Wagner rotors and Wagner ceramic pads from OReillys. Installed them all in an hour and no more shakee -ee -ee -eee steering wheel!

It stops a LOT better now! I cant believe those junk factory rotors lasted us 52k.
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 09:37 AM
  #22  
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I think that the rotors and pads you get depend on the engine and type of driving you do. Get what works for you best. Stock is ok for the 2.2 in light driving, any thing else needs bigger and deffently better pads and rotors.
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #23  
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I don't understand why the 2.2 would need less braking. There is 17hp difference between the 2.2 and the 2.4. Yes, driving style definitely would effect your choice of brakes but the 2.2/2.4 stigma on this forum, I will never understand.

As shown in the other thread, I have 13" Viper rotors on my little 2.2-powered 2006 HHR.

Old Oct 7, 2010 | 01:31 PM
  #24  
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Songman, First I love your break choice, may do something similar. Second, I have the 2.4 and must say Its has to have more than the 172 its rated at. My estimate would be about 200, well at least my car. I have never come accross another 2.4 that was as fast as mine, dont know why. Guess I am just special. I had a 2.2 rental, when mine got backed into at walmart, and it was so SLOW. It had no pick up and no power at all, granted it was a rental, but it was about 10K miles. Also the 2.4 is a tad bit heavier, not a lot but some. I would also put bigger breaks on the SS just because of the power. Just my 2 cents
Old Oct 7, 2010 | 09:00 PM
  #25  
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It happens that one car will be more powerful (or less) than other identical cars. At my Coast Run several years ago, a guy showed up in a black 88 Fiero GT with T-tops just like mine. The only difference was that mine was auto and his was a 5-speed. At the first stop he came to check out my car. When he looked inside he said "I can't believe your car is an auto! I have been trying to keep up with you the whole way." Normally people have said that 5-speeds are faster but my auto was a screamer.

I have driven 2.4s and didn't find that much difference. Maybe it is just one car to the next as you say. Neither of them is a race car, and both of them are fast enough for me.

Thanks for the compliments on the brakes. I wanted the big rotors to shed heat as much as anything. It don't hurt that they look so cool!
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #26  
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Deffently each car is different. I know my 85 C20 Has WAY more power than any other stock truck. I have not done much to it. But it tows 15K trailers like its unloaded and runs 0-60 in less then 8 secs. Best thing is at 100 mph its only running 3800 RPM. I have just never seen another one like it. I think it has a lot to do with the driver though. I have done things in that HHR that a lot of SS owners could not do. Either way Bigger breaks are a must.
Old Oct 8, 2010 | 07:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Songman
It happens that one car will be more powerful (or less) than other identical cars. At my Coast Run several years ago, a guy showed up in a black 88 Fiero GT with T-tops just like mine. The only difference was that mine was auto and his was a 5-speed. At the first stop he came to check out my car. When he looked inside he said "I can't believe your car is an auto! I have been trying to keep up with you the whole way." Normally people have said that 5-speeds are faster but my auto was a screamer.

I have driven 2.4s and didn't find that much difference. Maybe it is just one car to the next as you say. Neither of them is a race car, and both of them are fast enough for me.

Thanks for the compliments on the brakes. I wanted the big rotors to shed heat as much as anything. It don't hurt that they look so cool!
Most engines today leave the factory pretty close in power. The real issue is the care they get down the road. Not all cars are cared for in the same manor and that effects the out put of the engine over time.

Just a old set of wires a bad cap or partly clog fuel filter can really effect performance. Just a dirty Air cleaner too will mess with it.

I would say on the Fiero he could even have had bad injectors just because of the age or the type of fuel the car has used.

Also some engines lossen up more in time and will run more free.

This is why people used to blue print engines and get all the tollerances right to pick up some power. This is less important today than it was in the past but there are some differaces.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 07:59 AM
  #28  
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From: Upstate NY
Originally Posted by Old Lar
I'm still on the original brakes and rotors on my "06 after 74K miles. Must be they way I use the brakes..
My HHR just turned 80,000 and needs first replacement rotors. Already on second set of NAPA pads.
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #29  
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From: Outside the Capitol Beltway
best rotors and pads?

Why oh why wouldn'y you spend some money and buy Powerslot rotors and Hawk HPS pads?

Cryogenically treated rotors cost more for a reason. My rotors are getting bumpy, unlike you guys I don't want to be back there in 2 years because I "cheaped out" so I'll spend the money on those parts. Rotors cost $120 each, do you really want the best or want the best rotors for the money?

You know how it is.......ya spends your money and gets your product.

QR
Old Nov 12, 2010 | 02:38 AM
  #30  
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Dont see where eng power comes in...unless your a speed demon..and even then both cars at 70,80 or 90 are still the same...no weight change..now, if you were RACING the cars,,i'd be looking for a better brake...



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