Don,

Yes those rears were a pig to do it is true. I do not possess anything special in tools and performed my bushing replacement with the help of a few swear words. I can't remember the access trick but am a fan of rachet wrenches which allow you to get into the tightest spots without a ratchet and its height issues. You still get the convenience of a socket and ratchet using these wrenches.

My biggest heartburn was the 10mm bolts inside of the holes in the frame. You must be gentle with those of risk rounding off the heads. (You may have to use extractors or spline drive sockets then) http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-96362.html

QuickRick

 

OK, I've got a stupid question.
I just purchased the links ASSUMING (yes I know what thet means) that is where the knocking is coming from, but after reading this I am concerned that the bushings may also be bad. Since I am taking things apart to replace the links, I am also considering ordering a set of bushings as well.
My question is:
Is there a split in the bushing to get it over the bar, or do you have to slide them on from the ends?
If you do have to slide them, is it difficult, or are there any tricks like lubing the inside first?

 

Knocking/thunking from the end links is the most likely culprit, but that being said, you need to keep the bushings in the back of your mind if new end links don't quell the noise.

The bushings I used aren't split so they have to go on the hard way, since they were grease-able I just used a bit of grease to help them slide into position. Its not as bad as it sounds, the bushings aren't such a tight fit that you can't slide them, but lubing them does help. Make sure if you do replace them and decide to go with the OEM bushings, use some silicone lube because conventional grease will degrade the OEM bushings over time.

I've never seen split bushings for the HHR, but that doesn't mean they aren't out there.

 

Thanks 843, that's kinda what I thought. I am looking at the energy suspension ones if I do need them. the price really isn't too bad for greasable peace of mind, and it looks like I would have to remove the bottom of the link to install anyway. So, if I have the links off to replace, it MAY not be that much more to go ahead and do both at the same time. I love the pic that someone posted of the suspention assembly, this really helps me understand how it goes together.

Now, I am wondering how difficult the grease zirks will be to get at once installed?

I am doing the LT first, but may want to also get parts for the SS. Does anyone know what size is front sway bar on the SS?

 

23mm sway bar on the SS, it gives a more neutral balance coupled with the stiff performance tires. If you have a grease gun with a flexible hose the zirks on the bushings are easy to get at.

Here's the Energy Suspension part for the 23mm bar.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=9.5159

SS fan ordered up a set last week, not sure when he'll get them installed though.

 

That would be right about NOW ! The Ups guy brought them and they are in. I would do a how to, but I just handed Chucky 25.00 and they are in. We dropped the thingamajig to get a little room. They are very nice. it seems to have removed tension,... it is way easier to turn the wheels, smooth. Oh by the way they come in pairs don't order two like I did. Know anyone that could use a set, I hope it will be a while before I do.

 

Thanks 843de. I can't seem to get the link to work, but isn't that the same part as on the LT?

 

I have an extra set of 23mm's, thought I ordered a pair and I got a pair of pairs. Make you a smoking deal on them . BTW they smooth out the steering, seems to have no friction when turning now, more difference than I expected.

 

The LS/LT takes a part number 95161 from Energy Suspension, can't get the link to work either....404 error so it may be their server.

 

I have the guys email His name is Mark sales@energysuspensionparts.com
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