Performance Brakes for Ls & LT HHR
Ive had my HHR for about 16 month's, and put about 17,000 miles on it.
i drive in stop and go traffic daily coming in and going from work and i may have a little of the aggressive driving habits that aint so good for the brakes..
So I had the dealer change the pads once 4 monthes after i got my car.
a year later its feeling bad , now the rotors look glazed adn lined from extensive heat.
Anyone had much of this issue ??
How many of you have put slotted and dimpled Rotors on yours?
I'm considering these with warranty and the better ones come with free brake pads. But im not sure how much of a dead it is and if its worth it.
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...c6e03c1e1d8d60
i drive in stop and go traffic daily coming in and going from work and i may have a little of the aggressive driving habits that aint so good for the brakes..
So I had the dealer change the pads once 4 monthes after i got my car.
a year later its feeling bad , now the rotors look glazed adn lined from extensive heat.
Anyone had much of this issue ??
How many of you have put slotted and dimpled Rotors on yours?
I'm considering these with warranty and the better ones come with free brake pads. But im not sure how much of a dead it is and if its worth it.
http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...c6e03c1e1d8d60
I know my rotors were resurfaced before I bought them, but I've looking into new ones (since I'm sure it'll happen again), and once it does, I think I'm going to go with some R1 Concepts.... To me, those just look the best for your money.
I've been trying to get these
http://www.ajusa.com/details/index/1...50/EBC+USR7375
The link in your first post doesn't look very promising. There isn't a brand for any of the rotors. That's not a good sign to me.
http://www.ajusa.com/details/index/1...50/EBC+USR7375
The link in your first post doesn't look very promising. There isn't a brand for any of the rotors. That's not a good sign to me.
From what I understand drilled and slotted rotors serve no purpose except for weight...at the cost or reduced surface braking area and more chances of stress cracks from improperly machined rotors and reduced heat dissipation. When is the last time you have seen these rotors on any type of SERIOUS race car? Unless it was for weight.. and those will be drilled and scalloped non-vaned rotors.
Holes/slots?
From what I understand drilled and slotted rotors serve no purpose except for weight...at the cost or reduced surface braking area and more chances of stress cracks from improperly machined rotors and reduced heat dissipation. When is the last time you have seen these rotors on any type of SERIOUS race car? Unless it was for weight.. and those will be drilled and scalloped non-vaned rotors.
I ride dirt bikes & the brakes have come a long way. We started with drum brakes & finally got a disc set-up. Front only at first & then rear too! The first disc brake rotors were pretty crude. Large, solid & heavy. Eventually they figured out that they could save some unsprung weight by making thinner, smaller rotors. A rotor with drilled holes soon followed. The size & amount of the holes varied from mfg to mfg. Next came the 'oversized' rotor 'kit'. This was a larger diameter rotor & used an adapter to relocate the caliper. Soon after they started experimenting with slots. The trend these days is to cut metal out of every possible place. This creates the petal or wave rotor. The outer edge of the rotor is not round. It is cut out to save even more weight. Side note: In extremely muddy conditions, the high-end motorcycle race teams use an 'old school' solid rotor (round with no holes or slots).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Oldblue
Brakes | Suspension | Shocks | Struts
6
Nov 24, 2013 11:18 AM
mrarff
Brakes | Suspension | Shocks | Struts
0
Jan 7, 2011 08:15 AM



