Rear Axle Bent?
#1
Rear Axle Bent?
After I have replaced almost all the the front suspension plus 4 new tires on a 2008 HHR SS I recently bought, I went for an alignment at my favorite shop, which is awesome. I was informed that they could not get the passenger side rear wheel into alignment specs. It has been suggested that passenger side rear wheel could have hit a curb and bent the axle which threw out the toe adjustment and could not be brought into specs. My question for you suspension and chassis gurus is other than a new axle assembly, what are my choices for a fix? I know it's hard without seeing it but take a stab at it for me to learn on.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
To start with the shop set the machine to FE1/FE3 not FE5.
Looks like it's close to right to me; +.25 plus or minus .30. that makes .55 OK. However the difference between L & R is odd.
Is the shop aware that shims are available for the rear? There is no "wrench" adjustment in the rear. It takes a very experienced technician, many don't know it's possible, many don't know how.
Alignment Camber/Toe Shim Rear MOOG K6717-3 | eBay
It is also possible your rear hubs are going bad, usually that shows in camber. Which shows the R is a bit off.
Looks like it's close to right to me; +.25 plus or minus .30. that makes .55 OK. However the difference between L & R is odd.
Is the shop aware that shims are available for the rear? There is no "wrench" adjustment in the rear. It takes a very experienced technician, many don't know it's possible, many don't know how.
Alignment Camber/Toe Shim Rear MOOG K6717-3 | eBay
It is also possible your rear hubs are going bad, usually that shows in camber. Which shows the R is a bit off.
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; 04-03-2017 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Fixed link
#3
To start with the shop set the machine to FE1/FE3 not FE5.
Attachment 21291
Notice they are different.
Is the shop aware that shims are available for the rear? There is no "wrench" adjustment in the rear.
Attachment 21291
Notice they are different.
Is the shop aware that shims are available for the rear? There is no "wrench" adjustment in the rear.
Thanks donbrew!
#5
To start with the shop set the machine to FE1/FE3 not FE5.
Attachment 21291
Looks like it's close to right to me; +.25 plus or minus .30. that makes .55 OK. However the difference between L & R is odd.
Attachment 21291
Looks like it's close to right to me; +.25 plus or minus .30. that makes .55 OK. However the difference between L & R is odd.
#7
We're talking about rear toe, and I know nothing about alignment. But math I can do. The GM spec, that's the one in your post? It says +.25 +/- .30 so to me that means -.05 to +.55 Is that right?
EDIT, wait that's total toe
If I understand correctly, one is toed in and one is toed out. Seems like the desired toe would be +.25 on each side.
EDIT, wait that's total toe
If I understand correctly, one is toed in and one is toed out. Seems like the desired toe would be +.25 on each side.
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; 04-03-2017 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Housekeeping
#9
I would address the hubs and redo the alignment. Go from there if your under there, I just made you think underwere! Have a look at the rear axle bushings, and take a look to see if the arms are square
#10
I'll check the trailing arm bushings for square, as I recall they looked worn. Doing about 25 mph I pulled up on the hand brake activating the rear brakes and the car went to the left which leads me to believe the passenger rear is toe out as specified on the original alignment sheet I posted. I'm thinking about doing the full contact circular shim with the alignment figures given for the toe and camber for correct shim if I can't find any thing wrong with the hubs or trailing arm bushings.
https://www.mcbayperformance.com/Bro..._p/46-1520.htm