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Shock hanging (again)

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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #21  
nacademus's Avatar
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Check the bolt hole for roundness.
Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #22  
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Sorry about the "indecent" but glad to hear your alright. When I lived in Fresh Meadows Queens I had an 84 Ford Turbo Coupe and driving down one of our beautiful side streets got air going over a very wide & high speed bump near a park. Queens roads are the bestest......
Old Feb 20, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #23  
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Hey Lee-do they still have the salvage yards near Shea or did they get closed down? If they are still there just drive down the street with the part hang out your window and the street runners will direct you to which salvage yard has your part.
Old Feb 20, 2012 | 09:34 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Lee3333
I did it many years ago and don't remember. I don't recall the instructions saying to or I definitely would have.
Yes they do say to cut them. Here they are, pic from my Gallery here.

Also take note on what it states if you do not reinstall the bump stops. Yours are in place at least right?







Old Feb 20, 2012 | 10:06 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the comments and info. After I get the lower control arm installed and any other parts replaced, then I can bring it to the fabricator and tackle the shock bolt and check the bump stop to see if I cut it (I know I did not remove them, and I vaguely recall cutting a rubber piece with my hacksaw).
Old Feb 20, 2012 | 10:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Lee3333
I spoke with my fabricator buddy and he will either EZ out the broken bolt or drill and tap it. Then we will check the bumpstop issue.
Lee-

The reason I asked about trimmed bumpstops is that if you did. It is more likely the shorter shocks are Bottoming out before you hit the trimmed bumpstops..

Bump stops are there to prevent the shocks from bottoming out & causing damage.
Old Feb 21, 2012 | 05:32 PM
  #27  
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A new control arm is around $75.00 on RockAuto, they have both the aluminum and steel depending whichver you need and the bushings and ball joint are already installed, I believe four bolts are all you need to take out and you'll be on your way.
Old Feb 21, 2012 | 11:33 PM
  #28  
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I checked Rock and they had 4 different ones, ranging from 80 to 150 dollars. Since I am only changing one, I wanted it to match the other side so I decided to get it from my Chevy dealer. I have a good friend that is the parts manager and he gives me mechanics prices. As for installing it, I believe you have to compress the spring. And since the front end will need to be aligned at a shop, plus I need to get a new tire and have it mounted as well as moving my other tires put onto the new wheels, I just took it to a shop I know well that specializes in front end work. Remember how the wheel is no longer available, so I had to buy 4 new ones-well, the tires are no longer made so I need to buy 2 and not just one so they match.
Old Feb 23, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #29  
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Got the car back last night, and I think the wheels look great. They are more open than my old ones and show the painted caliper and drum better. They are lighter than my old wheels. The old wheels were not polished and very hard to clean. Plus, the 20 inserts that I painted to match the car were nice and made the old wheels look like they were designed for the car, but they were not held in securely and they rattled around when I drove. The 2 front tires were getting worn and needed to be replaced soon anyway, and the car needed a wheel alignment (never had one in the past 6 years). So all in all, while the accident was a pain, I think I was able to turn the lemon into lemonade.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #30  
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Glad to see you're back in the saddle again, wheels look good!



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