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SS lower control arm rebuild

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Old 08-06-2018, 12:04 PM
  #11  
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Got it, thanks. I'll have to look at that when I get a chance. We have CNC machine shop in our building.
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Old 08-06-2018, 12:07 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
The pinch bolt goes into the groove to insure the stud does not pull out (sounds dirty). Ideally you would want the sleeve to also be held by the pinch bolt. I am assuming that the groove is also .022 smaller

That groove is the only thing keeping the stud in the knuckle when you install the smaller ball joint since the pinch doesn't close enough.
Taking up the clearance is the issue. Once that is done the pinch bolt don't care. It will squeeze the material that surrounds the "spacer" and stud. And yes the "spacer" has to go all the way to the top of the ball joint stud.
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Old 08-06-2018, 01:39 PM
  #13  
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But only needs a notch for the pinch bolt to pass thru.
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Old 08-06-2018, 02:47 PM
  #14  
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The bolt has some responsibility for holding the stud vertically or they wouldn't bother notching. Maybe it's belt and suspenders. My slide rule got lost 40 years ago.
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Old 08-06-2018, 03:11 PM
  #15  
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The pinch bolt applies pressure to the two sides of the knuckle to hold the ball joint pin in the knuckle.
But at only 37 ft lbs if torque it’s the fit that holds the pin, to loose and the knuckle could crack.


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Old 08-06-2018, 03:36 PM
  #16  
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I am talking in-out not friction. The bolt in the notch keeps the stud from dropping out because 37 ft lb is not much to cinch it. It is what has saved all of those that put LS/LT ball joints on, without the bolt in the notch the LCA would be on the ground after the first bump in the road because the pinch was not pinching.
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Old 08-06-2018, 03:40 PM
  #17  
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Exactly
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Old 08-06-2018, 04:34 PM
  #18  
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Saved? Yes, from catastrophe, but if you drive around on the wrong ball joints on an SS, you will trash your knuckles, and eat up your tires..

PSA: Don't do it, kids!
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Old 08-06-2018, 04:54 PM
  #19  
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My point exactly
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