I've only once adjusted mine, and that was when I took the adjuster strut out, cleaned it up and regreased it about 40,000 miles ago. So long as that adjuster is working it shouldn't need adjusting manually. I know auto adjusters have a poor reputation, but I've always had good luck with them.

 

Good luck with that.

 

Yep, auto adjusters on an HHR, missed a few lessons in the how to work class!
They are like my lazy brother he don't work either!

 

I've worked on hundreds of rear drum brake cars back in my mechanic days and even some recently.
A car with working adjusters is only going to take up some of the brake shoe adjustment. They still need a little more fine tuning with a brake spoon or flat blade screwdriver.

Guess that's why most manufacturers would put slots on the backing plates. They knew their drum brakes might need a manual adjustment.

Anyone remember having to knock out the adjustment hole tabs with a hammer and punch ?
You older folks know what I'm talking about.

 

That was when self adjusters were an optional accessory.

 

My 69 Plymouth Road Runner still has those plugs all the way around, now that is a factory original car! It has the optional 11 X 3 police/ taxi four wheel drum brakes.
When I sold that car last summer, the guy thought I had made it up, he thought all factory hot rods came with disc brakes.

 

This might , might be applicable


Also if the new rotors are not hub centric that could cause a problem, now I know the title of this thread says OEM , but are the really??? I've seen some rotors with an 1/8 inch gap around the hub!

 

Mine had the shakes when I purchased it. Went to the non brembo larger front rotors. This helped a lot still had shake if the back drums got out of adjustment. Did the rear brake disc conversion. That fixed the shake for about 15k, till the LCA bushings failed. Replaced them with moog problem solvers. No shake now, even on decel from light speed.