What would you do? (struts)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 09-16-2010
Posts: 83
From: Marysville, OH
What would you do? (struts)
I got the call from the tire shop (figured something would happen)
My front left strut is leaking and needs replaced. Quoted me at $500.
I don't know much about them. Been searching chevyhhr past 20 minutes. I know that I need the compression to do the job. It is nothing something to toy with.
With that, Would you search for struts online and purchase then take to a shop
Or try and accomplish yourself? (what i'm leaning towards)
I have a friend with a lift and I believe knowledge in the field of struts. If i have no friends able or willing then I will most likely try and figure WHICH struts to purchase and then take to the shop.
Preference on struts? (quick struts) ?
woo. stuff.
My front left strut is leaking and needs replaced. Quoted me at $500.
I don't know much about them. Been searching chevyhhr past 20 minutes. I know that I need the compression to do the job. It is nothing something to toy with.
With that, Would you search for struts online and purchase then take to a shop
Or try and accomplish yourself? (what i'm leaning towards)
I have a friend with a lift and I believe knowledge in the field of struts. If i have no friends able or willing then I will most likely try and figure WHICH struts to purchase and then take to the shop.
Preference on struts? (quick struts) ?
woo. stuff.
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
"Leaking struts" are a great way for tire shops to pad their bottom line, so check it out yourself or get a second opinion before you do anything.
Since you have a buddy with a lift, and you know that you need to either have the springs compressed or use great care in doing it yourself, why not do your own work if you decide to replace the struts.
Quick-Struts for the HHR were made using the incorrect springs and folks have had problems because of that, until Monroe makes changes and announces some kind of "Hey we fixed the Quick-Struts for the HHR" announcement...stay away from them.
That being said, the regular Monroe struts work just fine as do the struts from KYB, both of their websites will allow you to look up the proper part numbers for your HHR, so no guessing required.
I used KYB units on both my '06 and '07 and they work great, just be prepared to do the job right and plan on replacing your shocks too. If the struts are well and truly worn out, so will your shocks.
http://www.kyb.com/
http://www.monroe.com/
Since you have a buddy with a lift, and you know that you need to either have the springs compressed or use great care in doing it yourself, why not do your own work if you decide to replace the struts.
Quick-Struts for the HHR were made using the incorrect springs and folks have had problems because of that, until Monroe makes changes and announces some kind of "Hey we fixed the Quick-Struts for the HHR" announcement...stay away from them.
That being said, the regular Monroe struts work just fine as do the struts from KYB, both of their websites will allow you to look up the proper part numbers for your HHR, so no guessing required.
I used KYB units on both my '06 and '07 and they work great, just be prepared to do the job right and plan on replacing your shocks too. If the struts are well and truly worn out, so will your shocks.
http://www.kyb.com/
http://www.monroe.com/
Senior Member
Joined: 06-26-2006
Posts: 1,876
From: San Bernardino, California
If indeed they do need replacement, I would do it myself. I've done struts on other vehicles in the past and I have a spring compressor. But from what I see in the manual, you don't need one of those to remove the strut assemblies. But, you'll need one to dissaaemble them once they're out of the car. I've not done them on the HHR yet.
Originally Posted by 2006 HHR Service Manual
Strut Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
•Remove the strut upper mounting nuts.
Important: Lift the vehicle using ONLY a frame-contact vehicle lift. Do NOT lift the vehicle using a suspension-contact vehicle lift.
•Raise and support the vehicle.
•Remove the tire and wheel.
•Disconnect the stabilizer shaft link from the strut assembly.
•Remove the strut lower bolts, nuts and antilock brake system (ABS) wiring bracket, if equipped.
•Remove the strut.
Installation Procedure
•Install the strut.
•Install the strut upper mounting nuts.
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
Important: This is a prevailing torque type fastener. This fastener may be reused ONLY if:
• The fastener and its counterpart are clean and free from rust.
• The fastener develops 3 N·m (27 lb in) of torque/drag against its counterpart prior to the fastener seating.
If the fastener does not meet these criteria, REPLACE the fastener.
•Install the strut lower bolts, nuts and ABS wiring bracket, if equipped.
Tighten
Tighten the strut lower nuts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
•Connect the stabilizer shaft link to the strut assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 80 N·m (59 lb ft).
•Install the tire and wheel.
•Lower the vehicle.
•Align the front wheels.
Removal Procedure
•Remove the strut upper mounting nuts.
Important: Lift the vehicle using ONLY a frame-contact vehicle lift. Do NOT lift the vehicle using a suspension-contact vehicle lift.
•Raise and support the vehicle.
•Remove the tire and wheel.
•Disconnect the stabilizer shaft link from the strut assembly.
•Remove the strut lower bolts, nuts and antilock brake system (ABS) wiring bracket, if equipped.
•Remove the strut.
Installation Procedure
•Install the strut.
•Install the strut upper mounting nuts.
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
Important: This is a prevailing torque type fastener. This fastener may be reused ONLY if:
• The fastener and its counterpart are clean and free from rust.
• The fastener develops 3 N·m (27 lb in) of torque/drag against its counterpart prior to the fastener seating.
If the fastener does not meet these criteria, REPLACE the fastener.
•Install the strut lower bolts, nuts and ABS wiring bracket, if equipped.
Tighten
Tighten the strut lower nuts to 120 N·m (89 lb ft).
•Connect the stabilizer shaft link to the strut assembly.
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 80 N·m (59 lb ft).
•Install the tire and wheel.
•Lower the vehicle.
•Align the front wheels.
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
You are correct Stephen, they come out as complete assemblies and then you can take them to have the springs compressed for dis-assembly. Take along your new struts and strut mounts to have the springs moved over and life is happy, I hate compressing springs, the energy stored up in them is astounding...and deadly if something goes horribly wrong.
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
If proper caution is used there shouldn't be a problem, but just like some people hate snakes or are nervous around horses, compressing springs is just one of those deals I'd rather leave to someone else.
If you have a good quality compressor and know how to use it safely and properly, all is good, its when people use junk tools or are careless...then its almost guaranteed to end badly.
If you have a good quality compressor and know how to use it safely and properly, all is good, its when people use junk tools or are careless...then its almost guaranteed to end badly.
Senior Member
Joined: 03-22-2010
Posts: 2,108
From: Russia Ekaterinburg
You need an elevator (or jack, I do not know the correct English word) to the front wheels do not touch the floor (hanging). The degree of compression of the spring can be adjusted with the same "jack" - to gradually lower the car onto the floor.
After dismantling the racks - the simultaneous inspection of the upper anchorage (again, I do not know the correct word).
There will be a shame if the new stand will have to be dismantled again for the replacement of iron gizmos.
After dismantling the racks - the simultaneous inspection of the upper anchorage (again, I do not know the correct word).
There will be a shame if the new stand will have to be dismantled again for the replacement of iron gizmos.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-26-2006
Posts: 1,876
From: San Bernardino, California
I covered that in my post:
Important: Lift the vehicle using ONLY a frame-contact vehicle lift. Do NOT lift the vehicle using a suspension-contact vehicle lift.
I have a spring compressor. But from what I see in the manual, you don't need one of those to remove the strut assemblies. But, you'll need one to dissaaemble them once they're out of the car.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-11-2011
Posts: 149
From: Ohio
Here is my rule for attempting jobs-if you are comfortable after investigating the job and feel that the consequences, should you have problems, are worth it to you to learn a new skill or save some money then I will attempt a new job. If you are not comfortable with compressing springs, many people are not, then take the parts to a shop and have them do it. It usually isn't that much more expensive anyway and you won't have to worry about doing the job incorrectly or your safety.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-21-2010
Posts: 1,700
From: The Middie OHIO
You can "rent" (leave the deposit and get it all back when returned) quality compressors at your local autoparts stores. Did this on mine. It really is an easy swap. It had two clamps in the box...one for each side of the springs. I'd never done this before, but felt good about not having an issue due to the second clamp. The chances that BOTH will fail are very slim. Good luck with it, should you decide to tackle this yourself. Was done with regular jacks/stands.
