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Wheel bearing replacement

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Old 02-25-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by barfan1
I tried a puller when I replaced my front hubs and it won't work and I using it because you can damge the axle with it. You just have to keep turning and hammering on the back side of the hub and it will come out. Don't be surprised if the ABS sensor/cap of the old hub is stuck in the spindle, both mine were.
Yup that is exactly what happened. That cap got stuck. It was heavily corroded in the knuckle. I busted my slide hammer getting it out, but that was the only way for me to get a real slap on that bearing assembly to get it out. here are some pics of the corrosion and conclusion:

(Yes that is snow. It was cold )



Assembly w/o sensor cap, still stuck in knuckle (My broken slide hammer attachment)



sensor cap stuck in knuckle



sensor cap w/ my beat marks



The heavy corrosion



The corrosion scratched to show it



All cleaned up



You might be able to tell the heavy pitting

Last edited by Kookie; 02-26-2012 at 03:04 AM. Reason: Forgot one pic plus added captions
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Kookie
I don't see that in the manual (Unless you have an updated service bulletin or something). I have the 2006 Chevrolet HHR Service Manual, A SUV (GMT/06-A-1). In volume 1 section 3-26 is the wheel bearing/hub replacement - front instructions. It doesn't mention replacing the axle shaft nut. Only the spec to tighten to 81 ft lbs. I do believe that is a lock nut.
My manual "2006 HHR Service Manual" specifies 155 lb ft torque, maybe you have the update. The nut comes with an axle, and every mention I have found says to use a new one, not to say I always have. They are of a type of 1 use nut, not exactly a squash nut more like an exhaust flange nut, like very tight tolerance (don't remember the name).
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:50 PM
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The corrosion may be a function of the ABS sensor causing an electrical connection? I don't have ABS, but did notice some stuff at the contact points, but not to the point of bonding.
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:57 PM
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Also... I damaged the hub assembly spacer. Apparently it is a dealer part and here is a picture of the new one:



I had someone pick this up and I thought I got the wrong part, but this is the updated spacer for after 2008 per Technical Service Bulletin No. 08-05-23-003A dated June 2008.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
My manual "2006 HHR Service Manual" specifies 155 lb ft torque, maybe you have the update. The nut comes with an axle, and every mention I have found says to use a new one, not to say I always have. They are of a type of 1 use nut, not exactly a squash nut more like an exhaust flange nut, like very tight tolerance (don't remember the name).
Well WTH? Really? I did get this manual as soon as it was printed. It wasn't available for almost a year after I got the car in 2006. (I can't remember the exact time frame, but I was a little pissed about that.) Maybe you have a more recent edition? And the specs are different eh? That kind of pisses me of even more. What is the number on the front of your manual? (I mentioned mine was GMT/06-A-1)
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:46 PM
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Mine is the one that must remain un-mentioned on this forum, but was once posted (digital version). I hope that that is an OK way to allude to things. I don't want to get into trouble again.

I do seem to remember that the first hubs I got had a note on them saying something about a new torque value, and I probably used that number then.

The new spacer you got looks a lot like the "water shield" TSB part, I don't know if they are the same thing or not. If they are you might want 2.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:51 AM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
The new spacer you got looks a lot like the "water shield" TSB part, I don't know if they are the same thing or not. If they are you might want 2.
Yes, I agree I should install the shield on the other side as well since my next project is to installing a nice set of rotors, calipers, and pads, to solve the crap ass stock brake issues. (Sweet brake parts already obtained.) But... Hell... I doubt if I can remove that bearing assembly without destroying it (just to install the shield), and that will cost me for a new bearing. That certainly is crapass!

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Old 02-26-2012, 12:04 PM
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On other cars, every wheel bearing I've replaced came with a new axle nut. This car was an exception; the Timken ABS bearing I bought did not come with a new nut. I got a new nut at NAPA, part number 630-1571. The nut appears to be pinch-deformed.

By the way, this was on my Cobalt, although I'd be surprised if the HHR used a different nut.
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Kookie
Yes, I agree I should install the shield on the other side as well since my next project is to installing a nice set of rotors, calipers, and pads, to solve the crap ass stock brake issues. (Sweet brake parts already obtained.) But... Hell... I doubt if I can remove that bearing assembly without destroying it (just to install the shield), and that will cost me for a new bearing. That certainly is crapass!

But, you must understand that once you do all of that the CVs will go out. I just went ahead and put new CVs, hubs etc. at the same time, it is exactly the same labor investment for each part if you do it once. I have found that all of those parts are considerably cheaper on ebay, but you may not trust the quality, for the difference in price I do. There is at least one vendor that offers a pretty good lifetime warranty.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
But, you must understand that once you do all of that the CVs will go out. I just went ahead and put new CVs, hubs etc. at the same time, it is exactly the same labor investment for each part if you do it once. I have found that all of those parts are considerably cheaper on ebay, but you may not trust the quality, for the difference in price I do. There is at least one vendor that offers a pretty good lifetime warranty.

Oh gees o' pete!!! Don't say that. You're right though. Hmmm, wondering how many miles to expect out of those CV joints. You know, I replaced that front left wheel bearing because I was hearing a hum kinda sound coming from there. Not sure if CV joints make any sound before they go. Hope that isn't that sound. I only took a short ride tonight when I was done because it needs an alignment now. I did some suspension repairs on the other side, the right, so I need to take it in tomorrow to be aligned. (Got a lifetime alignment / wheel balance deal from Firestone. I need them to balance that wheel I scraped too. )

I am doing a brake job next week and contemplating whether to replace the right side wheel bearing so that I can get that spacer plate in there. IDK, that shield may be helpful and would fully complete a proper brake job.

I anti-seized the crap out of the left wheel bearing so if I do need to disassemble it for a CV joint, it should pop right out. (I love my anti-seize grease. )
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