Gearhead1

Is there any info on why the solenoids burn up? High mileage? Heat?

Oldblue

Just ‘cause. Some burn out some don’t.

Gearhead1

Ok….well I hope these last forever..,,not eager to do this again….lol

Oldblue

It’s a fun job, rather change solenoids, then drop the fuel tank! Or change rear brakes in the early ones with the horse shoe spring

donbrew

Check all of the wires for fraying , they could burn out from a short.

Gearhead1

I dont know what this thing is designed for or remember where I got it (junk store I think) but it saved my bacon getting those axle seal cups off.

I took the center piece off…held in place by E clip….any one know what this thing is actually made for?

Gearhead1

Well I got back together…,new filter and pan back on….reconnected battery cables in back….dome light immediately can on so figured was a good sign….after putting 6.5 quarts in it…thought I would crank it….wont crank. Cluster lights come on but when rolled the key on over to start, they went out…flashed…got lock light on the cluster. Battery showing 12.5 volts…not true test I know but never had any cranking issues before.

donbrew

You di not tighten the 4 bolts in the fuse box enough. If you stopped when you thought you might strip the bolts you didn't go far enough. All of those pins on the bottom need to seat; click, click, click.

Gearhead1

Actually I saw a previous post you may about that so I went back and tighten all 4 7mm bolts till they clicked and got loose seemed like…and the rear one at least was not tight enough cause after that the rear gate would open.

Gearhead1

Well Don…you were right, I was full of crap. I re-visited the fuse box bolts….and I just thought I had them tight….tightened em dome more…till no slack left…and it cranks and runs now.

Thanks